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RJM Clutch Pedal System for 370Z - Fully Customizable Clutch Feel & Stroke

Mine showed up yesterday. Hopefully I get the time this weekend to put it in.

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Old 11-27-2012, 09:45 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Mine showed up yesterday. Hopefully I get the time this weekend to put it in.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The stock setting according to the instructions is the adjuster knob clockwise all the way until it stops. It says that this is 0% and is needed to get the full master cylinder stroke to bleed the lines if you ever had too. But on install you turn the knob counter clockwise all the way and then give it three turns to the right (clockwise) and thats 70%. Thats what it says to set it at for install. I believe as long as the clutch is at or higher then your brake pedal you should get full engagement and disengagement. If the clutch pedal is sitting lower then the brake pedal then turn the clutch Rod at the fork to adjust it to proper height. Mine was above the pedal without needing to tweak the clutch Rod at the fork. I'm sure Ryan can chime and and explain it better.
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:11 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Im confused now LOL maybe I understood things wrong. I thought all we were doing with this pedal is changing where the pedal itself causes the engagment/disengagement (but it stays the same). We can make it high in the pedal stroke (like stock) or low. Kind of like a short throw shifter. They dont change the gear distance itself just the distance it takes the shifter to do it by changing the axis.

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Originally Posted by gotchu99 View Post
The stock setting according to the instructions is the adjuster knob clockwise all the way until it stops. It says that this is 0% and is needed to get the full master cylinder stroke to bleed the lines if you ever had too. But on install you turn the knob counter clockwise all the way and then give it three turns to the right (clockwise) and thats 70%. Thats what it says to set it at for install. I believe as long as the clutch is at or higher then your brake pedal you should get full engagement and disengagement. If the clutch pedal is sitting lower then the brake pedal then turn the clutch Rod at the fork to adjust it to proper height. Mine was above the pedal without needing to tweak the clutch Rod at the fork. I'm sure Ryan can chime and and explain it better.
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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One of the best mods I've done to date. (period)
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Old 08-27-2013, 09:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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One of the best mods I've done to date. (period)
Stino, glad to hear your enjoying the pedal It always makes my day hearing my humble pedal assembly is helping raise a customers enjoyment of their vehicle
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:42 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Order placed!
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Order placed!
Order recieved Down to 6 now left before Christmas.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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OOOOOOO ok, to many hours at work. Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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No problem
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Old 12-01-2012, 01:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Down to Just 1 Pedal Assembly Left Today.

5 More may become available around mid-month if theres enough interest before Christmas to get another batch of parts produced for these before holiday shutdowns.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:34 AM   #11 (permalink)
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This is my first manual car and i have learned to manage the narrow engagement point and the high friction point... i think.

My question is, how does the adjustment in this new pedal allow me to avoid:
- Significantly Smoother Shifting with much less jerking all gears?
- Makes those 1-2 shifts which are difficult to get smooth much faster & smoother?
- Super easy launches with better control and less shudder?

I experience these problems and would be keen on solving them if this pedal does that.

Also, how much would shipping be to Melbourne, Australia (zip code: 3000)?

Thanks
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyrus_b View Post
This is my first manual car and i have learned to manage the narrow engagement point and the high friction point... i think.

My question is, how does the adjustment in this new pedal allow me to avoid:
- Significantly Smoother Shifting with much less jerking all gears?
- Makes those 1-2 shifts which are difficult to get smooth much faster & smoother?
- Super easy launches with better control and less shudder?

I experience these problems and would be keen on solving them if this pedal does that.

Also, how much would shipping be to Melbourne, Australia (zip code: 3000)?

Thanks
Cyrus_B

Here is how I explained it to Mr&Mrs back a few posts ago about how my pedal system achieves what it does.

Mr&Mrs the afp setting goes far beyond simply allowing you to adjust where the clutch bites high or low. By increasing the AFP setting it changes the mechanical advantage between the pedal arm and the master cylinder, this alters the movement ratio between pedal and MC. Doing this can make the width of clutch engagement narrow like stock or you can widen it out so there is more pedal swing between initial friction point and fully locked. This is what really sets my product apart from the simple spring mods and completely changes the Z driving experience.

With the stock pedal system there is lots of dead space at the bottom with a high engagement point and narrow window to modulate. This makes it more difficult to master and jerky then it needs to be.

Stock pedal stroke is like this:
[ dead, dead, dead, dead, friction/locked ]

RJM Adjusted Fulcrum Point is more like:
[ dead, friction, modulation zone, locked ]

It utilizes a normal or slightly shorter then stock pedal stroke but removes the dead space by putting it to good use and making it become an active zone you can modulate the clutch with rather then simply shortening up the stroke like other mods. Simply shortening the stroke gets the friction point down but it doesn't make the engagement zone larger between the initial friction point and fully locked which is what makes the clutch easier and smoother to modulate under all driving situations.

Unfortunately though my product only fits vehicles built with a Left Hand steering wheel such as for North America and other countries which follow the left sided driver position and drive on the right hand side of the road.

The clutch pedal assemblies used on vehicles where the driver controls are on the right hand side of the car are completely different from those used in LH vehicles and won't work.
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Ryan, you're basically saying that this gets rid of most of the dead space at the bottom, shifts the friction/engage point sooner, increases the modulation zone, but locks at the same point as the factory clutch?

is it possible to set it up such as:
[ dead, friction, locked, dead, dead, dead ]
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g96818 View Post
Ryan, you're basically saying that this gets rid of most of the dead space at the bottom, shifts the friction/engage point sooner, increases the modulation zone, but locks at the same point as the factory clutch?

is it possible to set it up such as:
[ dead, friction, locked, dead, dead, dead ]
Not exactly. The clutch will always lock about 1/2" of pedal stroke before the top. This is because the clutch locks when the master cylinder is just about fully extended in its bore and just before the transfer port opens that allows fluid to circulate between the pressure side and the reservoir. That allows for a small amount of takeup travel between the throw out bearing and the face of the clutch diaphragm so the TOB isn't turning except when the clutch is being pressed.

There is no way to increase the amount of stroke the master cylinder has before it starts pushing the TOB into the diaphragm except to open up the transmission and physically increase the distance between the TOB and the clutch face by removing shims or somehow getting a shorter TOB to increase the inital takeup gap.

Here is what you CAN do.
The AFP setting directly controls the width of the engagement zone between the friction point and fully locked so you can shorten or widen the entire stroke how ever you like.

AFP Setting works like this:
0% - Dead, Friction--Locked ( Low Friction Point, Short Stroke, Short Engagement like stock)
25% - Dead, Friction------Locked
50% - Dead, Friction----------Locked
75% - Dead, Friction--------------Locked (Recomended initial setup. Low friction point, Shorter stroke then stock, Nice engagement feel on most clutches)
100%- Dead, Friction------------------Locked (Low Friction point, Stock Like Long Pedal Stroke, Widest Engagement zone)

All of the above shows only adjusting a single variable which is the AFP adjuster knob. Adjusting the friction point height as well allows for an almost infinite number of possible combinations of friction height, engagement width and total stroke travel.

That is also why it works to improve the drivability of stock clutches all the way up to even the most severe Triple disk setups. The wide range of adjustment allows every driver to find their own sweet spot for their car and clutch combination. If at first you don't like it then a whole new clutch feel is only a few adjustments away. The power to adjust the feel and characteristics of the clutch engagement in this way is a very powerful tool and changes the entire feel of the car in a very possitive way
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Just ordered one! The website said out of stock until Jan 21st - is that still an accurate ship date?

Thanks!
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