RJM Clutch Pedal System for 370Z - Fully Customizable Clutch Feel & Stroke
 

Just finished my installation this weekend. It took me more than a couple of hours from start to finish including several breaks and listening to my neighbor's "vacation" plan :shakes head:

Kudos to Ryan for making an "easy to follow" installation guide for people (like me) who is not mechanically inclined. :tiphat:

For those of you who want to do this your self:

1. If the Z is your only car, make sure you have all required tools (listed on Ryan's guide) before starting the project.

2. Take a few minutes break every time you are stuck or frustrated on something. Get up, take a fresh air, get a beer or something, then start again.

3. Wear a thin rubber glove on your right hand since you will be working in a thight space with metals and wires.

4. Putting two milk crates next to the side skirt covered by blankets (to protect the side skirts from getting scratched) would allow you to lay on your back while working under the dash board without removing the seat. Thanks Stino! :hello:

5. E-brake should be engaged at all times. I put mine on 1st gear & e-brake just in case. :tup:

6. My back was sore the next couple of days so do it on Saturday instead of Sunday.

Edit:
Just took a test drive with RJM pedal installed, Wow! Couldn't believe it's the same car! Shifting gears feels soooo smooth.... Stop and go is no longer an issue. I've been driving the Z for 2 years for about 20,000 miles and never thought the stock clutch was that bad!

I highly recommend this pedal to ALL MT owners!

BeemaaZ I'm very happy to hear you're enjoying the fruits of your labour with the RJM Pedal Install:tup: The space under the Z dash isn't the easiest place to work but once done it's something you'll feel and appreciate every time you fire up your Z:driving:
PS I can sympathize with being sore after as I installed 4 units for customers myself last Saturday.

*** November Sale Special ***
 

Ordered!

I hope this is as good as everyone says! The shifting is really the only complaint I have on the Z. Especially, 1st to 2nd!!! It's just garbage! :( I tried the clutch helper spring already and didn't feel hardly any difference at all. With the reviews some of you guys gave this I had to try it, even though it wasn't really in the budget right now.

I put an ipad mini in my cubby and hooked up dash command to get some baseline 0-60 runs for a baseline to compare against future mods, and do some product reviews at request of another vendor. When I went to some closed roads to do some testing I couldn't get a good run in! I'm not the worlds best driver, but I certainly am not terrible either!!! I couldn't get a good shift in. Had to call it off before the cops showed up! Now it's getting cold and car is going away without a baseline. :(

I HOPE HOPE HOPE HOPE, this is the answer!

I really need to get off my *** and install this thing :roflpuke2:

Will be ordering mine in a few!!!!!

Thanks Guys! Orders received and will be shipping out Monday for you:tup:

Meulen if you're getting locked out on the shifts and haven't already changed out your factory transmission fluid then a good way to help your synchros be all they can be is to run my Redline/Synchromesh fluid cocktail. The better fluid to help the synchros spool up/down faster in conjunction with the RJM pedal will allow you much, much faster and smoother 1-2 shifts when your pushing hard for those baseline runs.
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...0-redline.html See about half way down the page.

RJM Clutch Pedal System for 370Z - Fully Customizable Clutch Feel & Stroke
 

Thanks Ryan! If you PM me a price I'll send another paypal for the fluid and I will give that shot

I'm not sure what's in there. I bought the car used. But it only has 22k on it so I doubt it was changed and if it was it was not likely anything more than something from the dealer.

Meulen,
I don't sell the Redline or Amsoil products but you can pick them up locally thru any speed shop that carries them or order some online from Summit/Jegs etc. I've simply experimented with multiple fluids and tried them all in my daily drivers. After a lot of fluid swaps I found the unconventional mixture of Redline and the Synchromesh fluid from Amsoil to be superior to any of them straight up. I'm not the only person who's experimented with the GM synchromesh type fluids as if you do some reading people across multiple vehicle brands and a huge range of different transmissions have seen improvements with the synchromesh fluid. While many have reported running non-synthetic synchromesh fluid hard in other transmissions requiring 75W90 gear oil without issue (and I've seen some long term results with blackstone lab testing to back them up) I feel the synchromesh fluid alone is too light to be run straight up which is why I mix mine with the Redline gear oil for the extra protection of bearings and gear teeth while still getting better synchro performance. Also the Amsoil is the only synthetic version of GM Synchromesh fluid I know of that's readily available off the shelf and mixes fine with the Synthetic gear oils from Redline.
As I noted before YMMV but I've had nothing but good things to say about it from my own use.

Got it! Thanks again! :)

You're very welcome. Nice build thread too, I like what you've done with your 40th so far:tup:

I have a stupid question. I've been driving manual cars for years and I'm a little confused now as to how the clutch is supposed to "feel". To me, the Z feels pretty much how all of my other cars have felt.

What is the desired feel that everyone is speaking of? A friend of mine who has done racing for years (Ferrari Challenge Series for one) said the same thing while driving my car that most of the people here are saying.

Hey Ryan, there was a post today (by dragonbreath) stating that he was having problems with water leaking into the driver's side and collecting in the footwell and behind the driver's seat. He did a water test but could not locate the source of the leak because of the insulation covering the firewall. However, he suspects that it may be related to the installation of the RJM clutch pedal assembly, and that the water is penetrating where the CMC and pedal assembly join. Have you had any reports of this problem? I find it a bit strange. I installed the RJM assembly and had no issues, but I'm mainly a fair-weather driver. Provided the assembly is tightened down properly as explained in the instructions, I can't see how it could leak. That said, it would be interesting to hear from others who have installed the RJM assembly whether they've experienced any problems with water leakage.

40 to 332, Thanks for posting about this. I've not seen or heard any reports of this unusual problem in the past or in the nearly 30k kilometers I've put on my G37S Coupe (daily driver in all weather) with the same RJM pedal assembly,master cylinder and firewall seals as the 370Z. Now neither my pedal assemblies or the factory pedal assembly have any sort of weather seal at the base of the bracket as they're both actually standing off of the firewall about 3/8" and only contact the firewall where the studs come thru. The factory pedal unit has stamped depressions where the studs are and my units have round spacers that fit between the firewall and the bracket to serve the same purpose.
If there is a leak at the firewall I would suggest that Dragonsbreath should look carefully around the master cylinder itself as the firewall seal is between the MC and the firewall from the engine bay side. Just speculating but if he pushed the MC away from the firewall during the install its possible the seal didn't go back in the same place or maybe bunched up causing a gap for water to seep in. However that area of the firewall is pretty protected above the wheel well and shrouded with plastic so I think it would be pretty hard for much water to make it up in from there unless there was tons of water pouring on it which there really shouldn't ever be.

Well since fellow owners haven't chimed in yet I'll take a shot at what I feel the important improvement points are:

First the factory pedal feels VERY numb and disconnected from what the clutch is actually doing. Not feeling what the clutch is doing takes away a lot of driver feedback which helps you feel the critical engagement points. This is due to the spring clutch assist mechanism Nissan used starting already back with the 350Z in 03'. Lighter springs are available from several people here but they make very limited improvement and I'd say 8 out of 10 370Z customers who buy my product tell me they wasted $20bucks trying the spring mod band-aid solution first but weren't happy with the results.

2nd is the long travel and very high engagement point where for a big guy like myself me knee was practically hitting the dash before the clutch would engage on the upstroke of the pedal. In factory form the clutch pedal is taller than the brake pedal height making it awkward to adjust the seat comfortbly, ideally both should be at the same height. This high pedal put me sitting almost all the way back to compensate which is a compromise at best. The RJM pedal allows you to safely lower the pedal height to be equal to or lower than the brake if you so choose.
I say safely as with the factory assembly altering the pedal height down messes with the function of the spring assist mechanism which can stick in assist mode and burn up your clutch and throw out bearing in short order.

3rd is the ability of the RJM to alter the pedals leverage ratio and master cylinder travel. By reducing the master cylinder travel it eliminates the excess travel at the bottom of the stroke and lowers the friction point closer to the floor which many find more enjoyable than a really tall friction point. The increase in pedal leverage means you have finer control over the clutch release and a wider range of pedal motion that is actively modulating the clutch. This leads to much smoother and faster 1-2 shifts which are hard to get consistently smooth on the factory 370Z pedal without a lot of effort put on getting the perfect timing and rpm's just right. With the RJM the 1-2 shift becomes smoother, easier and with less mental effort... it just comes naturally and more fluid which is hard to explain but must really be felt to understand.

4th, not really "feel' related and many don't know this but the RJM's reduction of excess pedal stroke and master cylinder travel reduces or eliminates the chance of OEM concentric slave cylinder failure. Slave failure is almost always the result of over stroking the CSC inside the bellhousing causing the seals to rupture when the CSC piston reaches the end of its designed travel but the master cylinder/clutch pedal continues to push. When the seals burst it's almost always instant death for the CSC. Plus it means getting towed and possibly replacing the clutch too if clutch fluid sprays onto the clutch disk permanently contaminating it.
Reducing the excess pedal stroke is a good thing for extending CSC life and I've had customers who've had 2 or 3 CSC's replaced in a row by the dealership who then installed the RJM pedal and never had the issue return. As well I've never heard of a single CSC failure from any customer running the RJM pedal in the past 2 years of sales while there are hundreds of other 370Z & G37 owners that are still struggling with CSC failures out there on the various owner forums.

So in closing there is no particular pedal feel the RJM pedal generates. Everything about the RJM pedal is geared around personal preference. It allows the flexibility to adjust your clutch pedal to whatever feels right to you, your specific clutch setup and your own unique driving style.

Like everything it has its limits and can only do so much but it gives you a lot of options and adjustment room you'd never have with a stock pedal.

Cool. Thanks Ryan. That helps a lot.

Weekend Bump :tiphat:

New Stock's Arriving Tomorrow!!!
Thank You to everyone who's placed back orders. They'll be shipping out first thing Monday Morning:tup:

For anyone who hasn't scooped up one of these at the Special Price + Free Shipping You'd Better Hurry! There are Only 10 Units left available from the new batch coming tomorrow and Sale Ends SUNDAY!

No other Black Friday sale item will make as big of an impact on your daily driving enjoyment than this! You'll feel it's presence on every shift:driving:

Got mine delivered last week! This thing is gorgeous! It's winter here, so even if I install it I can't try it out yet. But, I can't wait to get this thing installed!

Meulen I'm glad to see it arrived safely and you're happy with my workman ship:tup:
I personally fabricate, paint, assembly and inspect every unit that goes out to ensure the highest quality possible. They're built in small qty's, laser cut from high grade steel and assembled with hardware made in the USA... I think the care and attention to detail that goes into every unit truely shows in the final product and I wouldn't put my name on anything less. :tiphat:
I'll look forward to hearing how you like it once you get your build buttoned up and the weather co-operates. We got just over 3ft of snow dumped here in the past 4 days so I know the feeling... this is 4x4 power sliding weather:driving:
__________________________________________________

Is there still special pricing on this if so pm me thanks!!

PM sent Last night as requested :tup:

Still a Few Units Left !

Hey Ryan … I ordered the RJM clutch pedal assembly and installed it a few months ago. I meant to post some comments about it after some use, but never found the time. The car is now in winter hibernation, and I now have some time. My comments are:

First, the RJM assembly is well made. The overall quality matches or exceeds that of the stock assembly.

Second, the RJM assembly is far superior to the stock in terms of overall clutch "feel". The clutch shudder that I often experienced from a standing start with the stock assembly has virtually disappeared. It makes the driving experience better. (Incidentally, I have been driving vehicles with manual transmissions for 45 years so the "shudder" experienced with the stock assembly was not a newbie issue).

Third, the free play at the top of the pedal takes a bit of time to get used to largely because there is virtually no free play in the stock pedal, so the sensation is different. I completed the minor adjustment outlined in the instructions which reduced the free play a bit, but caused the lower switch to start heading out of alignment. Anyway, not a problem … just letting others know that the free play may seem a little odd at first.

Fourth, the RJM assembly is a bit of a bear to install, due largely to the very cramped quarters. Certainly, you don't have to be a master mechanic to install it, but youth and a good back would help! It took me about 6 hours to install, but I was very fussy about following the instructions, and making sure that fitment was proper. It also requires good lighting … preferably with something other than a trouble light that I used, and regretted every time my hands or arms got close to it.

Finally, I'd offer an "alert" for Step 37 … when you install the smaller clevis pin into the supplied clevis fork through the AFP slider mechanism. At this stage, the installation is almost complete. I had to "fuss" with the pin while attempting to push it through … and suddenly it went through, at which time I heard a faint dreaded clink, which turned out to be the rear bronze bearing in the new fork that had popped out and struck some part in the footwell as it went flying. There was some momentary fear as I thought "where the f did the bearing end up". Fortunately, a quick search revealed it deep in a crevice in the footwell. It was easy to re-install, but I could have done without the panic just as the installation was nearing completion. You may want to alert folks of this issue. Simply placing a finger on the backside of the fork to ensure that the bearing stays in place would solve the problem.

Bottom line: The RJM assembly is great. I never went the way of removing or changing the clutch helper spring so I can't comment on whether the assembly helps more or less than switching the spring. But I can say that the assembly works well and makes driving a stick a much better experience than the stock assembly.

One of these just showed up unexpectedly on my doorstep today! Thanks to Ryan and my wife for the birthday present! :tup: I can't wait until I'm done installing it :icon17:

I didnt realize that my issue was posted here about the water leak. Just for the record my water leak was leaking through the wiring harness boot that is just to the left of the clutch pedal assembly. My water leak started coincidentally shortly after I installed the RJM pedal causing me to think that it may have been related. I can safely say that the issue wasnt caused or related to this assembly. It was just one of those weird things that happen. A little silicon around the harness boot fixed me up!

This pedal assembly is awesome! No complaints here. Definitely worth the money. One of my biggest complaints when switching from the 350z to the 370z was the clutch feel joined with the lagging of the throttle. This fixed any concerns I had with the clutch being hard to feel/judge. Before it seemed that I could never get it right. I was too high or too low causing the ride to feel like a 14 year old was driving a stick for the first time lol.

Dragonbreath, thanks for following up and I'm glad to hear your enjoying the new pedal. As well it's good you got that water leak fixed around your upper wiring harness. Looking at the pics in your other thread it certainly was a pretty extreme amount of water that found its way into your car :eek:

Down to 3 Units Left this Weekend at the Sale Price. Who Wants One:tup:
:driving:

Orders before noon today will ship tomorrow AM

Hello Ryan,

for this Redline/Synchromesh fluid cocktail you mention, are you just mixing 50/50 or some other ratio?

Thanks.

Shotta, the mix I found works best for my G37S in summer is:

(1) Bottle RL MTL (75W90)
(1) Bottle RL MT90
(1) Bottle Amsoil Synthetic Synchromesh

Winter mix (before I got a truck lol) was:
(2) Bottles RL MTL (75W90)
(1) Bottle Amsoil Syntetic Synchromesh

The Amsoil can be subbed for the cheaper Penzoil synchromesh fluid with no dicernable difference in hot/cold shift feel but I prefer to keep it all synthetic.

Mine is still running great after a year and a good bit of track use.

Spohn:tup: That's the kind of news I love to hear!

Is there any sale going on atm??? any left in stock??

Parts are finally back in stock today to fabricate more 370Z pedal units after being out of stock for nearly a month due to a supplier issue.

For Everyone that's been waiting now is your chance before these sell out again. :driving: