Originally Posted by solidus (Post 3481380)

Wanna say thanks to Ryan for the awesome customer service, but more importantly issue a warning thats been said before but based on my experience needs to be said on every page for new buyers. IF.....you upgrade your clutch after your install of the RJM pedal either go in yourself and put it to zero before the install OR make damned sure the installer puts it back to zero before the install. The result of not doing this in my case was drag developing on the clutch due to the installers assuming the pedal is OEM and you paying for an extra hour due to the headache they'll develop trying to bleed the CSC.

Originally Posted by littlejuanito (Post 3495593)

I have a question. It seems that the general consensus with the OEM clutch is to not depress the pedal all the way down in order to preserve the life of the CSC. With that said, should I exercise the same caution with the RJM pedal or is it ok to fully depress the clutch with this unit? I

Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM (Post 3495597)

Absolutely no need for caution with this pedal assembly to preserve CSC life. As the AFP setting increases the stroke at the master cylinder and in turn the CSC is being decreased proportionately. So even at full stroke on the RJM pedal you'll always be getting something less than full CSC stroke and preserving it's useful lifespan anytime the AFP is setup over the 0% mark(same as stock) with most running an AFP in the 60-90% range.

That's not to say you need to do a full stroke when shifting though as I typically shift at something less than full stroke 99% of the time and only fully press the clutch when starting from a stop or when starting up. Otherwise just do what works and feels natural without any worry for the CSC.

Originally Posted by WELL ZED (Post 3500074)

Hey Ryan,

So I just bought the pedal assembly kit and the clevis, however I dont have the tools to install it and dont know anything about changing these things and am thinking of sending it to the Nissan dealership near me. Anything I should let them know of before in terms of setting the correct AFP %? I want to pay as little as possible in labor/installation fees and just want to let them know what to expect so they dont spend too much time reading the instructions :tup:

Originally Posted by Swindler (Post 3500691)

So can I adjust pedal height without having to adjust anything else by loosening and tightening those 3 bolts holding the arm?

Also I'd like to adjust the AFP setting maybe half a tooth or a tiny bit more but a little confused with resetting the Upper Switch Gap, I don't want to cause the clutch to fail ... Is it as simple as pushing the pedal slightly and tightening the Upper Switch mount locking bolt?

Also if just adjusting the AFP slightly it doesn't look like adjusting the clutch rod angle will be necessary but is it necessary to do steps 29-30?


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Originally Posted by Ryan @ RJM (Post 3500755)

Hi Swindler,

Yes, you can simply loosen the 3-bolt connection between the upper and lower arm halves to alter the overall pedal height without changing anything else in the setup.

To adjust the AFP only a little bit as you say (about a tooth in either direction) you should be fine as long as you setup the clutch rod angle carefully to begin with. If it's already pushing at an off angle then moving a full tooth in the opposite direction might put it off angle quite a bit. The best thing to tell you is make the change and just use your best judgement. If it still appears to be pushing straight in/out after the change then no worries. If it's off you'll need to do a clutch rod angle adjustment procedure as well.



For the upper switch it is just that simple. Loosen the switch lock bolt to where you can push the mount up/down with a little force. Push the pedal down just slightly to take-up any linkage slack, push the mount down so the switch meets the rubber bumper and retighten the bolt to lock the adjustment. It took longer to type that then it does to actually do it.



Hope that helps!

Best Regards,

Ryan@RJM