The shop had a bleeding problem when they installed my clutch, I re-bled it when I got the car home but can't test it (no insurance). I just want to make sure it's working as it should be, before I change the clutch pedal assembly. I don't need a shop blaming the clutch pedal assembly when it's really a clutch problem.

Order placed!

Like gotchu99 posted if you set the AFP adjustment knob to 0% that gives the master cylinder full stroke just like stock. It will feel and function just like a factory pedal only without the assist spring to deaden the clutch feel.

Mr&Mrs the afp setting goes far beyond simply allowing you to adjust where the clutch bites high or low. By increasing the AFP setting it changes the mechanical advantage between the pedal and the master cylinder, this alters the movement ratio between pedal and MC. Doing this can make the width of clutch engagement narrow like stock or you can widen it out so there is more pedal swing between initial friction point and fully locked. This is what really sets my prodcuct apart from the simple spring mods and completely changes the Z driving experiance.

Also many 350Z owners have installed their version of my pedal along with new clutches (singles, twins & tripple disks) and it actually helps you with the break-in period so you could easily run the initial AFP setting at 70% or if you're worried could go down a little to say 50% or so. I'd probably drive it stock pedal till the weekend to make sure everything the shop did is good and all the air is out then have at the new pedal this weekend.

Order recieved :tup: Down to 6 now left before Christmas. :driving:

OOOOOOO ok, to many hours at work. Thanks for clearing that up.

No problem:tup:

Down to Just 1 Pedal Assembly Left Today.

5 More may become available around mid-month if theres enough interest before Christmas to get another batch of parts produced for these before holiday shutdowns.

This is my first manual car and i have learned to manage the narrow engagement point and the high friction point... i think.

My question is, how does the adjustment in this new pedal allow me to avoid:
- Significantly Smoother Shifting with much less jerking all gears?
- Makes those 1-2 shifts which are difficult to get smooth much faster & smoother?
- Super easy launches with better control and less shudder?

I experience these problems and would be keen on solving them if this pedal does that.

Also, how much would shipping be to Melbourne, Australia (zip code: 3000)?

Thanks

Cyrus_B

Here is how I explained it to Mr&Mrs back a few posts ago about how my pedal system achieves what it does.

Mr&Mrs the afp setting goes far beyond simply allowing you to adjust where the clutch bites high or low. By increasing the AFP setting it changes the mechanical advantage between the pedal arm and the master cylinder, this alters the movement ratio between pedal and MC. Doing this can make the width of clutch engagement narrow like stock or you can widen it out so there is more pedal swing between initial friction point and fully locked. This is what really sets my product apart from the simple spring mods and completely changes the Z driving experience.

With the stock pedal system there is lots of dead space at the bottom with a high engagement point and narrow window to modulate. This makes it more difficult to master and jerky then it needs to be.

Stock pedal stroke is like this:
[ dead, dead, dead, dead, friction/locked ]

RJM Adjusted Fulcrum Point is more like:
[ dead, friction, modulation zone, locked ]

It utilizes a normal or slightly shorter then stock pedal stroke but removes the dead space by putting it to good use and making it become an active zone you can modulate the clutch with rather then simply shortening up the stroke like other mods. Simply shortening the stroke gets the friction point down but it doesn't make the engagement zone larger between the initial friction point and fully locked which is what makes the clutch easier and smoother to modulate under all driving situations.

Unfortunately though my product only fits vehicles built with a Left Hand steering wheel such as for North America and other countries which follow the left sided driver position and drive on the right hand side of the road.

The clutch pedal assemblies used on vehicles where the driver controls are on the right hand side of the car are completely different from those used in LH vehicles and won't work.

Ryan, you're basically saying that this gets rid of most of the dead space at the bottom, shifts the friction/engage point sooner, increases the modulation zone, but locks at the same point as the factory clutch?

is it possible to set it up such as:
[ dead, friction, locked, dead, dead, dead ]

Not exactly. The clutch will always lock about 1/2" of pedal stroke before the top. This is because the clutch locks when the master cylinder is just about fully extended in its bore and just before the transfer port opens that allows fluid to circulate between the pressure side and the reservoir. That allows for a small amount of takeup travel between the throw out bearing and the face of the clutch diaphragm so the TOB isn't turning except when the clutch is being pressed.

There is no way to increase the amount of stroke the master cylinder has before it starts pushing the TOB into the diaphragm except to open up the transmission and physically increase the distance between the TOB and the clutch face by removing shims or somehow getting a shorter TOB to increase the inital takeup gap.

Here is what you CAN do.
The AFP setting directly controls the width of the engagement zone between the friction point and fully locked so you can shorten or widen the entire stroke how ever you like.

AFP Setting works like this:
0% - Dead, Friction--Locked ( Low Friction Point, Short Stroke, Short Engagement like stock)
25% - Dead, Friction------Locked
50% - Dead, Friction----------Locked
75% - Dead, Friction--------------Locked (Recomended initial setup. Low friction point, Shorter stroke then stock, Nice engagement feel on most clutches)
100%- Dead, Friction------------------Locked (Low Friction point, Stock Like Long Pedal Stroke, Widest Engagement zone)

All of the above shows only adjusting a single variable which is the AFP adjuster knob. Adjusting the friction point height as well allows for an almost infinite number of possible combinations of friction height, engagement width and total stroke travel.

That is also why it works to improve the drivability of stock clutches all the way up to even the most severe Triple disk setups. The wide range of adjustment allows every driver to find their own sweet spot for their car and clutch combination. If at first you don't like it then a whole new clutch feel is only a few adjustments away. The power to adjust the feel and characteristics of the clutch engagement in this way is a very powerful tool and changes the entire feel of the car in a very possitive way :tup:

Just ordered one! The website said out of stock until Jan 21st - is that still an accurate ship date?

Thanks!

I installed this pedal back in July. It has really changed the whole car experience. It's a great product!

http://www.the370z.com/members/stino...-installed.jpg

ENT-Z Thank you for your order. Yes, I'm expecting to have more 370Z pedal assemblies fabricated and ready to ship on or around the 21st. If anything changes I'll keep you posted but as of right now that is an accurate date :tup:

Stino - Very happy to hear you're enjoying the RJM driving experiance :driving:

Any updates? Thanks!