That's funny!! Free upgrade demands.. lol.. in that case I should get a free upgrade to the new Z when the dealer gets them in. Hell, they are a big company and can afford it.

I'll try the adjustmentsame you suggested. I'll get back to you in a few days on how it went. It's raining out.

YzGyz

YzGyz, just sent you a long and detailed PM with my suggestions on your setup and how to hopefully get it better dialed in.

For the Rev3 visually it doesn't look that different from a Rev2 however it was completely redesigned from the foot pad up and there isn't a single piece left in common with the older units. The changes all focused on ease of install and ease of tuning... So the number of adjustment points and range of adjustment remained virtually unchanged. When a Rev2 and Rev3 are setup equally you shouldn't be able to tell them apart by driving feel unless you look under the dash.
The key new features are that the Rev 3 now comes with the upper pedal arm fully installed in the main bracket. Everything is greased, upper arm in place, spring in place and it all goes up onto the firewall as a complete assembly ready to go.
The AFP adjustment is now a simple sliding plate with an indicator window to show you what the AFP is set for.
The AFP now comes pre-setup so all you do is bolt it in and its already at the magic starting point I recommend.
The upper switch now has a simple moveable mount that adjusts with loosening just one Allan head bolt for quick adjustment. No more jam nuts to mess with.
The Rev3 uses the OEM clevis end on the master cylinder so you no longer need to remove and replace it. Since the clutch rod setting was ok with the OEM pedal and the clevis doesn't need to be touched anymore you can go straight to test driving without needing to do any further setup with it. Just fine tune later if needed.
The Rev3 bracket design is more open and allows better access around the master cylinder studs so it's easier to see them, start the nuts and tighten them down with less obstructions. In Rev 3.1 this got improved even a little more as additional clearance was given beside the upper left stud to help with starting the nut.

So that means:
No more installing of the bare main bracket on the firewall first.
No more greasing & installing the bearings into the pivot tube under the dash.
No more greasing and installing the spring under the dash.
No more having to line up the pedal arm in place under dash, while keeping the spring from falling off and pushing the large clevis pin thru to hold everything together.
No more double jam nuts to fight with when adjusting the upper cruise control switch depth which needs to done when making other setup changes.
No more need to setup the initial AFP starting point during the install.
No more counting the number of turns of the AFP adjuster and estimating where it's setup for or worse yet turning the wrong direction and wondering why it's not responding how you want it.

So basically a lot of little things that when all put together make the Rev3 MUCH easier to install, tune and understand what needs to be done compared with the Rev2.

Very cool Boss. I had no problem at all installing the V2. It was easy. Any improvment is good improvement. Rep

YzGyz

I spent probably a good 30 minutes just wrestling with nuts that go back on the CMC studs in my Rev 2 install. Better tools this time and much more open access to those studs knocked that time down to about 30 seconds when I installed the Rev 3.0 just recently (and I understand Rev 3.1 has even better access).

Ryan, I will buy a new clutch pedal whenever you have the HD CMC ready. If you think you'll have something before the next batch of clutch pedals is ready, please set one aside for me. Let me know if you need anything from me.

Count me in on the master cylinder list.

JARblue, Sounds Good! I'll have another batch of units coming up in about 2 weeks so I'll put one aside from that run for you to go with the new HD CMC. Right now I'm looking about 2nd week in May for official release.:driving:

Chuck33079, Awesome! I'll let you know as soon as I open them up for sale in May.:tup:

Man that's good stuff RJ! I have adjusted the pedal to the instructions you sent m ein the PM. I have not and taken a real drive yet. The roads are still wet. I'll let you know how the pedal feels when I do.

YzGyz

It's really nice , I installed mine about 2 weeks ago. I really wonder what it's gonna feel like after my clutch install this week. (Yzgys , I know. I'm feeling the BP kit DIY shame. Keep it up and I may have to turn a wrench.)

RJ just checking back in to update you on my pedal. I started out at 1 turn counterclockwise. I didn't like the feel se I turned it another 3 or 4 more, adjusted everything again and it seems good for now.

YzGyz

Still have some of the latest 370Z Rev3.1 AFP units available tonight. 370Z & G37 AFP Clutch Pedal Assemblies - *RJM Performance.com

As well the new RJM Premium HD Master Cylinders just finished up torture testing and are starting into production this week. Sales of the RJM Premium HD Master Cylinders for 370Z/G37 is now open for a very limited Pre-Order opportunity to be among the first to receive one. The first of the production units are set to begin shipping out Monday May 30th. Don't Miss Out as the Pre-Order is only open to the first 10 Customers to order by this Friday May 13th.
See *RJM Performance.com to secure yours today!
:tup::driving::tiphat:

Links Fixed - Thanks to everyone who pointed out the issue :tiphat::tup:

Ryan, it looks like your links for the master cylinders got cut off. Need to add "rs.html" in place of the "..." at the end :twocents:

Just placed my pre-order for the HD master kit :D

I went ahead and threw in the HD clevis fork just cause. And since I have an rev2.1 clutch pedal, I had to upgrade to the newest revision so the clevis fork would work with it ;)

Ryan, if you see this, no need to ship out my clutch pedal until the master cylinders are ready :tiphat:

^^what he said, hyperlink isn't working

JARblue, Thank you for your order and for pointing out the bad link. Should be fixed up now. Materials are on order and the first production run of these units are gearing up to start fabrication in the shop later this week. I'll keep you posted as things progress and may be able to do a little better on delivery date once things get rolling:tup:

If we miss out on the first run, how long before these are regularly stocked?

They likely won't be in regular stock for quite a while as I can only run them in small batches of 10 units or so. Each unit requires 6-7 hrs of fabrication and processing so 10 units is a solid 60-70hrs of work for each small batch in addition to keeping up fabrication of my clutch pedal assemblies. That is why we're looking at ~3 weeks out for first batch to be ready while dedicating 20+ hrs a week to these + building pedal assemblies. Figure about June 20th for getting in on the next batch of 10 MC's.

370Z AFP Rev 3.1 Pedal Assemblies
 

Just want to say how awesome this new 3.1 pedal is, just installed it on supercharged with stage 2 clutch and 90% of chatter is GONE! No more jerky take off either, smooth as butter, honestly the price is too low for the benefits this pedal gives, you guys rock!

Scope22,
Thank you for posting feedback on your Rev3.1 Unit:tup: That's awesome and I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the new system with all the improvements it's made.:driving::tiphat:

Wanna say thanks to Ryan for the awesome customer service, but more importantly issue a warning thats been said before but based on my experience needs to be said on every page for new buyers. IF.....you upgrade your clutch after your install of the RJM pedal either go in yourself and put it to zero before the install OR make damned sure the installer puts it back to zero before the install. The result of not doing this in my case was drag developing on the clutch due to the installers assuming the pedal is OEM and you paying for an extra hour due to the headache they'll develop trying to bleed the CSC.

solidus, You're very welcome and I'm glad you were able to get things sorted out. The notice about clutch bleeding is *bold highlighted* in italics on the first page of the install guide but I will work harder to make sure new customers are aware of this important piece of information when having a new clutch installed.

Best Regards,
Ryan Morgan - Owner
RJM Performance Inc.

Bump heading into the weekend! I currently have just Qty (5) of the latest RJM Rev 3.1 AFP Pedal setups for 370Z/G37 left in stock today. The nice weather is finally here and you owe it to yourself to experience how your Z SHOULD have felt from the factory.:driving: It'll completely transform your Z driving experience!

Once these remaining units are sold out it'll be a 2-3 week wait for new stock. Grab one before they're gone.

I have a question. It seems that the general consensus with the OEM clutch is to not depress the pedal all the way down in order to preserve the life of the CSC. With that said, should I exercise the same caution with the RJM pedal or is it ok to fully depress the clutch with this unit? I

Absolutely no need for caution with this pedal assembly to preserve CSC life. As the AFP setting increases the stroke at the master cylinder and in turn the CSC is being decreased proportionately. So even at full stroke on the RJM pedal you'll always be getting something less than full CSC stroke and preserving it's useful lifespan anytime the AFP is setup over the 0% mark(same as stock) with most running an AFP in the 60-90% range.

That's not to say you need to do a full stroke when shifting though as I typically shift at something less than full stroke 99% of the time and only fully press the clutch when starting from a stop or when starting up. Otherwise just do what works and feels natural without any worry for the CSC.

Great! Thanks Ryan. For some reason, my shifts are smoother when I depress the clutch all the way as opposed to doing a shorter stroke.

Hey Ryan,

So I just bought the pedal assembly kit and the clevis, however I dont have the tools to install it and dont know anything about changing these things and am thinking of sending it to the Nissan dealership near me. Anything I should let them know of before in terms of setting the correct AFP %? I want to pay as little as possible in labor/installation fees and just want to let them know what to expect so they dont spend too much time reading the instructions :tup:

Hi WELL ZED,
The dealership is probably the last people I'd trust to do a quality install for cheap, especially on aftermarket parts. I would highly recommend any small local shop, a local performance tuning shop or even a handy friend to help you for a case of beer over taking it to the dealership. As for what to tell them the AFP comes pre-set to the initial starting position on the latest Rev3.1 version so they shouldn't need to do anything with that for basic install. Otherwise following the installation guide is 110% recommended for the shop or dealership because I've heard of far too many shops who thought they knew everything and threw the instructions away only to send the customer home with a poorly installed unit with lots of issues for me to sort out with the customer afterwards.
I hope that helps point you in the right direction and to avoid the pitfalls I've seen others fall into with some shops.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

Thanks for the heads-up, Ryan. Ill probably find a tuning shop in my area, most of my friends are car noobs anyway :icon17:

The RJM webstore is currently accepting pre-orders towards the next batch of RJM Rev 3.1 Pedal Assemblies to begin shipping June 29th. Each customers order is hand fabricated, painted, assembled and packaged for shipment in the order in which they are received.

There are currently just Qty *15* Units remaining available for pre-order towards the next batch tonight. So get your orders into the build queue early for the quickest fabrication and shipping once production resumes.


Once all pre-ordered units are shipped out any left over units will become available for regular purchase first week of July.

Have a Great Father's Day Weekend Everyone!

Ryan@RJM

So can I adjust pedal height without having to adjust anything else by loosening and tightening those 3 bolts holding the arm?

Also I'd like to adjust the AFP setting maybe half a tooth or a tiny bit more but a little confused with resetting the Upper Switch Gap, I don't want to cause the clutch to fail ... Is it as simple as pushing the pedal slightly and tightening the Upper Switch mount locking bolt?

Also if just adjusting the AFP slightly it doesn't look like adjusting the clutch rod angle will be necessary but is it necessary to do steps 29-30?


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Hi Swindler,
Yes, you can simply loosen the 3-bolt connection between the upper and lower arm halves to alter the overall pedal height without changing anything else in the setup.
To adjust the AFP only a little bit as you say (about a tooth in either direction) you should be fine as long as you setup the clutch rod angle carefully to begin with. If it's already pushing at an off angle then moving a full tooth in the opposite direction might put it off angle quite a bit. The best thing to tell you is make the change and just use your best judgement. If it still appears to be pushing straight in/out after the change then no worries. If it's off you'll need to do a clutch rod angle adjustment procedure as well.

For the upper switch it is just that simple. Loosen the switch lock bolt to where you can push the mount up/down with a little force. Push the pedal down just slightly to take-up any linkage slack, push the mount down so the switch meets the rubber bumper and retighten the bolt to lock the adjustment. It took longer to type that then it does to actually do it.

Hope that helps!
Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

Also, neither getting the switch gap wrong or the clutch rod alignment wrong will cause ANY damage to your clutch. The switch gap wrong at best your cruise control simply won't work and at worst you'll get some wonky changes in engagement height from hot to cold. It will not hold the clutch down and burn out the clutch like you can do with the factory assembly.

The clutch rod angle if it's way off will likely just bind up the pedal and it'll just feel wrong or get clicking/popping sounds when pressing so you'd know right away to get it corrected. That and you should always eyeball it for a straight push of the rod anytime the AFP is changed so it shouldn't ever be an issue if following the adjustment procedures as outlined in the install guide.

Ok thanks for the response, I am not good with doing anything like this but I feel like I should be able to do this if I want to, so I've been trying to read up on it. I had it installed by a shop so I don't know if the clutch rod angle was set up correctly or not lol but I'll take a look and see if it looks like it's going in straight. I don't really know what I'm looking at to begin with lol. But yeah after looking at the pics an stuff I kind of think I understand


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