DIY: Whiteline rear differential bushings

AlexRaymond19

I just put a new rear diff in, and did the bushing at the same time. I used to cut method on bushing, but I used an air hack saw. Cut like butter, and took maybe 30 mins to get out.

I also found a much easier way to install the new center bushing. Place it in the rear, and use the handle of a hammer and position the end over the hole of the bushing. Now rest the handle of the hammer on that black bar the is a few inches down. Pull toward you and it pops right in. I'll post a picture tomorrow so you can see what I'm talking about

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YzGyz

Adding my quick video to this old DIY rear differential bushing and Finned NISMO cover swap. The movie is a little Blair Which but together with the instructions above, you get a really good idea of what and how to do it.
Job was not really hard. I would say it's a 4/10. Swapping the transmission and to swap the clutch csc is a 9/10.

It took me an estimated 5 hrs as I was making the video, working alone for the most part.

Tools needed
-SAFETY GLASSES!!! For the love of Jeebus have safety glasses. That rear bushing sprays some nasty junk when you drill and cut it. I had liquid and rubber stuff everywhere!!
-socket set, I used a few 1/2'', 3/8" exstensions, breaker bar, cheater bar (I used the handle of my other floor jack), wobble adapter, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, pliers, screw driver, bottle jack, cutting tool, drill with spade bit as the screw type broke on me, hammer, sledge hammer (I used a 20lb dumbbell to knock the old bushing of the diff after flipping it over), probably missing a few more tools.
-Mat to lay on or creeper
-jack stand, jack, chocks
-something to ties things with
-pry BAR
-hex keys to break open the fill and drain plug

1-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAtgvAYw-8Q
2-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sT8geSsAGes
3-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5kw2IDwgsg
4-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQyAkW70_Ng
5-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4AZ38mUn8k
6-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMyx8_WW-6Y
7-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLuQFl2mu4c
8-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNgYlGMGg6A
9-9
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FlhoTCILr8s

conmam

Here is a very simple tool that I fabricated ( Took me 15 minutes to do a good fabrication job) in order to drive that stupid vent pipe into the Nismo diff cover. This tool works every time rather that getting my head beat out banging the breather pipe in while trying to align it.

Simply take your 3/8 inch drive 9mm socket and carefully cut out the part shown in order to accommodate the part of the pipe sticking up. Drive the breather pipe in nice and straight.....

YzGyz

I did not want to sacrifice a tool since I'm only going to do it once. That defiantly works better.

YzGyz

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YzGyz

conmam

It's all right. My 9mm deep sat around for the past 20 years untouched. Never had a need for a 9mm so might as well have some use of out it after all.

Jayhovah

I took your idea but like some others, did not want to sacrifice a socket... I found this little pipe coupling in the plumbing department of the hardware store... it was a couple of bucks.

I drilled a hole through it so I could flip it 180 degrees to make sure I was tapping the vent tube in evenly. Worked great, thanks for the idea.

Attached Images

IMG_20170111_224918.jpg (55.1 KB, 209 views)

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hOOnZ

I know this is an old thread but wanted to bump it and share my experience.
Thanks OP for posting, and others for comments as well.

Noticed fluid residue on the diff cover so decided to tackle. Purchased it on Amazon for $95 and got it in 2 days. Compared to Z1 or other vendors, total price was cheapest and shipping was quickest.
Just got it done over the weekend with a friend. Having a lift made everything much easier of course, but it is not critical for clearance.

Few installation notes:
- We marked all 3 flanges and axles/ds to get it back to where it was. Worth noting that I had swapped a vlsd into my base where you can't really put it in exactly as it was to original, but I had no issues before this install and wanted to keep it that way.
- Removal: used a bushing puller for the fronts, and drill + saw for the subframe mount. There is a metallic piece that comes out with the rubber bushing, but don't confuse this with the steel plate that needs to come out.
- install was easy peasy, used included grease and pressed in by hand mostly, the subframe bushing pulls in when installing bolt to diff.
- followed the included instructions to dispose of the top plates (iirc) on front mounts.
- It was the first time doing this job for both of us, but my friend is an Infiniti master tech so he knew his way around the car and his tools. Took us about 2hrs total. Perhaps worth noting that rear braces and exhaust were removed/installed not too long ago so we had nothing seized.

Impressions:
Got rid of the thud noise under hard shifting - no matter how hard I shift there is zero noise.
On/Off throttle moments seem tighter, drivetrain slop has definitely improved - makes me want to go further with trans mount.
Haven't noticed any change in NVH - perhaps the exhaust sounds slightly louder, but I reused the exhaust gaskets so will be checking for leaks next time.
Definitely recommend this one, especially if you're capable with DIYs. Bang for buck is very high on this one.

zefaulter

How can you tell the oem bushing has failed?

YzGyz

Mine was not leaking when I swapped it out. I would think you will hear a cluck? See the fluid leak onto something? See it excessively squished? The rubber is cracked?

Click on the link for video 7. At the end of the video, I zoom into the bushing that is in the frame. You can see the bushing has already started to dry out and crack.

I personally would not change it unless you plan to drive a lot more power to the ground or it has failed. It was a good amount of work, easy but a lot of work.

YzGyz

Jsolo

Seriously, what was nissan thinking!@# Replacing the entire subframe member seems asinine given all the extra things that have to come off. On an older car there is also risk of some of these additional parts breaking in the course of removal. Not to mention having to do an alignment.

My only suggestion is to make sure everything is properly marked before removal, including the drive shaft (mentioned in the OP) and the half shafts.

How heavy was the diff unit itself (vlsd?) ?

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YzGyz

M guess would be 65lbs? ? It's jus awkward to carry so I can't give a good estimate.

YzGyz

Tadpole

Excellent write up OP.

I would be one of those types to pay someone to do this. Lack of tools, time, and age are my limitations.

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YzGyz

The pains of old age. It's always that quote that sings true, "The mind is willing but the body is not." It's such a sad thing, especially when they are talking about sex. Like stated before, I would leave the OEM alone unless something is going wrong or you want to drive the power down to the ground.

YzGyz

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Tadpole

I just turned 50 and still getting nookie!!

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Jsolo

Giving this some more thought, there is actually merit in replacing the entire subframe if it's not on your dime.

There are other bushings in the subframe that wear and would contribute to diminished chassis characteristics (loose feeling). If the repair is covered under warranty or extended warranty, let them replace the entire assembly. It's my understanding the new subframe comes with all the bushings (inc diff bushing) pre-installed. Seems like a win win case.

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