DIY: Front Stud replacement/ Spacer install
 

While a few guys have done this, I haven't seen a DIY so here goes. Adding 15mm spacers with extended studs requires jumping through a few hoops..

First, Buy (2) M12 x 1.25 lug nuts (open style) at your local NAPA store, and a 1" spacer of some sort (Home Depot plumbing dept). In this case a 3/8ths pipe coupling seemed like it would work. These will be the tools you need for installing the new and removing the old studs without damage. :
http://images52.fotki.com/v729/photo...MG_1898-vi.jpg

Remove your caliper and Rotor (see ChrisSlicks DIY) http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ent-front.html. You can do this without the Pad removal step if you're careful and you don't have a lip built up on your rotors. This next step is assuming you want to remove the old parts undamaged in case you de-mod in the future. Otherwise just wail away with a hammer to remove them. If you like to preserve your stock parts (I do), Screw the nut on the stud:
http://images116.fotki.com/v703/phot...MG_1901-vi.jpg

Slide a larger socket over the stud and whack a few times with a hammer until the stud is free:
http://images44.fotki.com/v1535/phot...MG_1902-vi.jpg

http://images44.fotki.com/v1535/phot...MG_1903-vi.jpg

Knock all 5 out and save. The threads will be undamaged if you use this technique. Now for the install of the new studs. The cut-out in the splash shield does not provide quite enough clearance to fish the new longer studs into place without flexing the shield a bit . You can also Open this up a little with a die grinder or file and slip the new studs into the holes..All in loosely:
http://images110.fotki.com/v1538/pho...MG_1908-vi.jpg

Now, take the open ended lug nut you bought and the 1" spacer and assemble on the stud:
http://images51.fotki.com/v731/photo...MG_1906-vi.jpg

Hit with an impact gun until all studs are pulled in and firmly seated in place. This takes some muscle and probably is not doable by hand unless you can lock the hub in some fashion.. After 10 of these the lug nut will be getting a little funky which is why you bought 2! You'll want one with clean threads to hold your rotor/spacer in place when you re-mount your caliper.
http://images116.fotki.com/v709/phot...MG_1909-vi.jpg

Re-assemble Rotor and caliper, put your spacer in place making sure the centering ring is fully seated.
http://images49.fotki.com/v1511/phot...MG_1910-vi.jpg

Remount wheel and torque to spec. Drive a few miles and re-check torque just to be sure you got the studs pulled in all the way. I would do this a few times just to be safe.

Done! Rep points appreciated if you found this helpful..

Nice DIY.

I remember as a kid, how does the stud stay in place like that....lol
cool stuff

Spacers make a subtle visual difference, but contribute greatly to a muscular stance and filling out of the wheel wells. Before and after:

http://images44.fotki.com/v1535/phot...MG_1899-vi.jpg

http://images50.fotki.com/v1525/phot...MG_1911-vi.jpg

Did u do the rears as well??

Did the rears a month or so ago with the Version 2 spacers. (no stud work necessary)
It's a little more complicated on the rear if you go with the longer studs as the parking brake assembly neeeds to be moved for clearance. The V2 versions shown are simple bolt on adapters.

Pics: Front and Rear Spacers: 15mm album | Ttschwing | Fotki.com

very helpful, well done DIY. Thanks buddy.

Modshack, could you please PM me or post a link to where you got the spacers, along with the part number. Also why did you go with 15's?

Spacers from: WWW.ICHIBAUSA.COM - Hubcentric Wheel Spacers, OEM S13 5-Lug Conversion, Header, Turbo Manifold, Downpipe, Test-Pipe & More Performance Parts!

Why 15's?....They fill in the wheel wells very nicely bringing the tires almost flush to the fenders. Won't cause a problem if lowered in the future. 10 was too small, 20 too big, 15 just right IMO..

Thanks Modshack for yet another useful DIY thread!

Just a quick question.

I've asked Minicobra this before, but did you feel any addition vibrations (not matter how small) from adding the spacers?

And also, do you reckon that sand will be picked up by the edges of the bottom tyre and scratch the bottom sides of the door sill?

No problem!

Properly machined, a good set of Hubcentric spacers should introduce NO vibration into the equation. It does alter the track width and factory scrub radius a bit, but in combo with my Stillen bars feels nice and precise. More on Chassis tuning anf the effects of mods here if you're interested:
Roger Kraus Racing : Oversteer/Understeer chart

On the road pick-up issue, yes, moving the wheels out a bit does expose the rocker to a bit more throw-off. The rocker though is plastic so therefore is fairly flexible and should resist chippping more than say the hood. YOu can always put some clear protectant film on it. I haven't run these in the rain yet so I don't have any experience with what it will throw onto the car.

just a couple things to comment on Steve,
1. I was able to fit the 15mm lugs through the heat shield without trimming just by wiggling the heat shield a little bit.

2. I recommend installing 1 new stud at a time. I did all five on my first one, and the vibrations of the impact wrench buggured up the threads on the loose ones a little. Not too much, and not in an area that affected them, but I still recommend doing only one at a time.

Yeah...I was tired and impatient to get this done..Updated above! My Impact must be smoother than yours too!

May I ask why you used antiseize on the back mating surface of the rear spacer? For alignment with the hubcentric ring?

Also, were the stock studs difficult to remove? I had to change the studs on my toyota once and I really had to hammer them a lot to get them out. I was afraid I was going to damage the wheel bearing.

I've had spacers "weld" themselves to hubs before due to corrosion

A few whacks, not hard at all.

ah, makes sense. thanks.

I am planning on using 20mm spacers all around. would i probably have to use a different method to get the lugs in there? also would i be able to just use V2 in the front?

:driving: Post some pics asap once you get them!

What is the ft/lbs to put the Version 2 spacer to the hub on the rear using their lugnuts?

Not sure how Im going to torque em down without a impact gun, but maybe if Im strong enough to hold it from turning..

Set the parking brake and torque to 90-100 lbs....About the same as the main wheel lugs..

90-100 ft/lbs may be too high. OEM spec for the lug nuts is 75-80 I believe.

Service manual says 80......I always torque to 90 per guidelines for other cars I've owned. I have a dedicated torque wrench just for wheels. The real caution is to avoid putting a 400 ft lb impact gun on them.......10-15 lb differential is not a lot. I'd rather error on the side of tight than loose...YMMV.

:iagree: Yep, I do the very same thing.

I usually tq wheels at 85ft/lbs, but I can deal with 90ft/lbs,..I hope the parking break can hold since it going to be a 1 man job.

just read this thread again as I will need to do this mod soon and have some ideas to save some money... So chime in if more experienced mechanics/DIY'ers disagree..

1. I would take off 1 at a time and remount, but wouldn't it be easier to remove each oem stud using a hammer and punch to "push" them out?

2. Using the access hole, you can punch the new studs back in.

3. I agree using anti-sieze on the spacers so they dont stick and on the studs as well..

Let me know as I plan to do this when weather gets better during a weekend... Turkey cooking and BF shopping had me busy this weekend..

I think you'll have a hard time doing it that way. While you can use a punch, the method shown is meant to preserve the parts witout distorting the studs or messing up threads.

On putting them in, it take quite a bit of force. there's not much swinging room back there. Pulling them in with the impact is the best way.

Many do not recommend antiseize of lug threads

won't the spacers change the offset of the wheels and put extra stress on the bearings?

Yes
No

I and many of my friends have used spacers on various cars for many years. Nowhere have we ever seen any evidence of accelerated wheel bearing wear. 10-20mm is not a lot if offset increase..

if i have never used an impact gun would you still recommend i do the front stud replacement? that step confuses me....so using the impact gun is bringing the stud out towards "us" to fit in place?

im assuming home depot or such would rent out an impact gun or am i wrong?

you could do it with a regular long bar socket wrench, but you would need a helper stepping on the brakes and your muscles would get really tired.
The ends of the bolts are knurled, and are normally pressed into the hub. When you install them after initial assembly, they are pulled in with the impact wrench, or you could pull them in the same way manually, but you are putting a the stud into a slighly smaller hole, hence the getting really tired part.

gotcha :tup:

Any experience w/an impact gun? I'll probably tackle it later today....but have never used one. They self explanatory?

you need a compressed air source to run one, other than that, its fairly self explanatory.

Just installed my front H&R 15mms this afternoon. Talk about easy!

You DEFINITELY want to have an impact gun handy. If you don't have one and don't want to go the air compressor route, just get an electric one. I have a Kobalt 1/2" electric and it does a great job.

Going to do the rears later in the week.

Many thanks for the DIY, Steve!

Another great DIY write-up which I'll be referencing real soon. +1 rep to you sir.

Good DIY.

Anyone know what the stock stud length is? I want to add a little length to mine but not so much that I have to run open ended lugs for every configuration.

I'm trying to install spacers by myself right now. Got the front caliper off and aside...that hard line restricts movement doesn't it? likely bent a bit when I set the caliper aside. Having some problem "encouraging the disc loose with a mallet". I'm hammering it from the back side but maybe not hard enough. Anyway, I have a question, I test fitted the 15 mm H&R spacer and the small bolt had to come off...I can't put that back on with the spacer in place b/c it doesn't match the spacer's holes...will that be OK?

The small bolt is just there so you won't accidentally mount a rear wheel on the front hub. You can remove and iscard. No problem..

Just hit it from the front, good hard whacks near the edge of the rotor.

Thanks guys. Hit it on the front...ok I'll try that.

WD-40 around the studs and if need be take a torch to it. The torch was the only thing that worked for my Sunny Cali no rain rotors.....geez how did they rust? Too much washing of the wheels?

Actually, a few hard hits on the front side as ChrisSlicks suggested worked well. Front ones done...now onto the rears.