DIY: how to make your headlights black housing with 20 bucks...

dmhenderson

Don't do 250. I achieved melty headlights at 11 minutes at 210.

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Dallaz

Got it!! Nasty F***** it was just stuck on this indention and you have to yank it for like 5 minutes and it finally broke loose

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359427580.619857.jpg


Here is a pic of the PITA holding it in place.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359427633.519311.jpg



And here is the removed wire assembly
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359427663.519593.jpg

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AeroJacket Lip Kit | GTR switch | NISMO S-Knob | Blacked-Out-EVERYTHING| 5% Tint | Carbon Fangs/Upper Trim | VOSSEN CV3's | Painted Headlights | CF Diffuser

dmhenderson

Yeah that's the blinker bulb assembly and that needs to come off. You can use a screwdriver to apply pressure to those clip thingies to get it off. Sometimes it's easier to do with two people

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ZForce

Okay I m not the patient type nor want to take the time to do this myself.

If the OP or someone state side could get a core exchange going, then I would be on it for two sets staright away. I do not want the down time as this is my DD, therefore if someone would get hold of a unit and use if for a core exchange I am sure they could make a mint.

Good job, simota...btw: I am still waiting for you to come state side and install my dash fuel gauge decal from three years ago. The plane ticket is about to expire. We could hang out with your HS skool buddy Jaimie...haha

dmhenderson

The guys who cleaned up my headlights after I screwed them up might have a core/swap set.

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ZForce

Good sir, could you please shoot me a pm with their 411.

Dallaz

Just finished trying the first light... FAILURE!!!


We went for 200 degrees, initially for 11 minutes because we wanted to make sure the silicone was nice and gooey and easy to remove.... Well it wasn't. We pulled for probably 2 minutes full strength, got the first coupe tabs pried off but we could tell it wasn't hot enough, so we tossed it back in at 200 degrees for another 4 minutes, it hadn't been out of the oven for that long and was still hot.

We pulled it out, immediately went at it with mechanix gloves, no budging. I've watched Nut_N_Much's video and could tell I was pulling hard enough it just was still not hot enough. So we went for an additional 7 minutes at 200 degrees.

This time, it started hinting at coming apart but no crackling of the silicone was heard, the light was still obviously not hot enough, so we're going to call it a night. The light is still in perfect shape and I pushed it back together before the silicone fully hardened. So now I have to ask, HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THESE THINGS OPEN?!?!?!?!

I've heard people say
"250 will melt your lights"
"250 for 10 minutes is perfect"
"Never go over 200 degrees and 15 minutes max"
Blah blah F'n blah

What am I doing wrong?

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AeroJacket Lip Kit | GTR switch | NISMO S-Knob | Blacked-Out-EVERYTHING| 5% Tint | Carbon Fangs/Upper Trim | VOSSEN CV3's | Painted Headlights | CF Diffuser

b1adesofcha0s

When we did it, we used a flathead screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape to help break them open. Took 2 people to do it. One would be trying to pull the lens apart with his hands and the other would use the screwdriver to help pry it open and break up the silicone seal. If you still can't get it, stick it in the oven at a bit of a higher temp. Check on it in short intervals (like 2-3 mins) to make sure it isn't melting anywhere.

The problem we had with it melting at 250 degrees was because we put in the headlight lens down. If you don't do that you should be ok, but I'm not guaranteeing anything. All I can say is to check it often to make sure it doesn't melt.

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Project: b1adeZmobile (2009 370Z) | Uprev Tune by AAM Competition | Berk Exhaust
Project: b1adeZmobile 2.0 (2014 C7 Z51) | Corsa Xtreme Exhaust

Dallaz

Now that the frustration is wearing off, I can go one of 2 routes tomorrow. I have heard to put it directly onto the rack at 200 degrees for roughly 10 minutes and that it would be just right, no melting issues. I thought that was risky, but after the rag we used was in the oven for a total of 22 minutes, it was still mostly cool, temperature wise.

And the silicone I could tell was soooo close to budging so most likely placing it directly onto the rack would do the trick, and in reality, about 1% of the headlight is actually making contact with the rack and its pretty thick pieces as well.


What would actually make contact w/ rack
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359441926.860476.jpg

OR..........

I could put the light back on my tray & damp cloth at 240-250 for 8-10 minutes and hope that does the trick.

Work station
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359441973.553811.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359441985.437564.jpg

__________________
AeroJacket Lip Kit | GTR switch | NISMO S-Knob | Blacked-Out-EVERYTHING| 5% Tint | Carbon Fangs/Upper Trim | VOSSEN CV3's | Painted Headlights | CF Diffuser

b1adesofcha0s

What I learned DIY'ing with this mod is that it's better to be safe than sorry. I'd put it on the tray with the damp rag and maybe put the temp at 210-215 first. I wouldn't leave it in there for the whole 10 mins without at least taking it out and checking for melted spots like 2 or 3 times.

Take some extra time to figure out the best safe temp and time first then the next one will be a lot easier. We went through 3-4 full sets of headlights doing it the same way before we melted 2 of them.

__________________
Project: b1adeZmobile (2009 370Z) | Uprev Tune by AAM Competition | Berk Exhaust
Project: b1adeZmobile 2.0 (2014 C7 Z51) | Corsa Xtreme Exhaust

dmhenderson

MKG was the only set of headlights that escaped unscathed. Yours, mine, and the guy with the 350z got melted. D broke the clip that holds his HID bulb in on the driver's side.

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b1adesofcha0s

I'd say raise the temp only if everything else doesn't work, but do it slowly and carefully.

My cousin's 350 headlights didn't get melted so I guess we're 2/4. D was just the unlucky 1st trial

__________________
Project: b1adeZmobile (2009 370Z) | Uprev Tune by AAM Competition | Berk Exhaust
Project: b1adeZmobile 2.0 (2014 C7 Z51) | Corsa Xtreme Exhaust

b1adesofcha0s

The part that makes contact with the rack is small, but it's also where the headlight gets bolted onto the car. Definitely don't want to risk ruining that.

__________________
Project: b1adeZmobile (2009 370Z) | Uprev Tune by AAM Competition | Berk Exhaust
Project: b1adeZmobile 2.0 (2014 C7 Z51) | Corsa Xtreme Exhaust

Dallaz

Gonna get started again tomorrow hopefully. Thanks for all the help guys

__________________
AeroJacket Lip Kit | GTR switch | NISMO S-Knob | Blacked-Out-EVERYTHING| 5% Tint | Carbon Fangs/Upper Trim | VOSSEN CV3's | Painted Headlights | CF Diffuser

dmhenderson

Yeah what blades said. Don't up the temp. Just work slowly and carefully. Don't up the temp and definitely don't put them directly on the rack.

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