My 2010 roadster came with the wire installed. Also, the old "blank" came out without a problem ... no issues with getting the nuts off. Maybe I'm just good at getting my nuts off.

Does anyone know exactly where that wire comes out? Details??? Pictures???

Ok well I will try to get some pictures up of my install. I also intend on tinting all the rear lights as I will be disassembling alot of the panels back there already. Oh boy....

Hey hopefully someone can help, I'm mid install, have the fog in place and all the panels off. All that's left is the actual wiring. As I'm no electrician I don't even know where to start. What should I wire it up to? I don't really know what a crimp is, and do I need extra wiring?? If someone knowledgable is available help a brother out haha.

If you just want it to cut on with your brake lights and make it is as simple as possible just splice the green wire going into your tail light and run it to the red wire on the fog light. Then just ground the black wire from the fog light on that big nut in the back of your trunk with all those ground wires on it.

So I finished the install will post some pictures in a little bit. Quick question. After disconnecting the battery, my windows go down a half inch when I open the doors but do not go back up once they're closed. There some simple fix
for this??

Found the answer in another thread. That search function is a doozy eh?

:D indeed it is lol

Ok, I got my light in, bolts were a pain, went down to Home depot and purchased a pen type Bernzomatic torch $7.95 and fluid $2.99. Heated them up for about 10 sec. and they came right off. Have to be careful not to go to long because I melted the housing a bit on one side. :icon17:

I've decided to just do the 4th brake light for now, I have the factory harness going to the dummy box, can someone tell me what would be the easiest way to make this work? Should I just bypass that and go to the tail light "green" wires and then ground the black, or is it easier to tap in higher up by the trunk firewall ? I've read through the entire thread, but I'm still not clear what would be the best way to go about it. Like I said, I do have the wiring harness going to the dummy box, so................:confused:

thanks :tup:

Skip the dummy box. Run both wires into the trunk through the plug on the driver's side. It pops right out. From there you are right at the grounding point and the green brake wire is in the loom.

Ok, thanks :tup: I'll give it a shot, I got most stuff out of the trunk, but I'm not seeing the plug on the drivers side yet, I guess I need to remove the jack tray, etc.

Yep. It's right underneath the jack tray by the driver's tail light. Here is a picture of the plug removed and the wires exposed. You can also see the grounding point in the upper left of the picture.

http://www.the370z.com/members/cbric...ght-wiring.jpg

Thanks CB :tup:

Got it all hooked up, have a 4th brake light now :tup: I'll probably ad the relay to do the flashing and reverse, but I'm good for the moment. :tup:

Do I need to disconnect the battery just for this simple mod?

Anytime you do electrical work and splice wires it's a good idea to unplug the battery.

oooops!! :icon17:

X2 lol ooops :icon17:

Most of the wires back there to the tails have no power when the car is off so you're usually fine. It's just a better safe than sorry kind of thing.

Sorry its been delayed a bit, but here are some pics of my fog light install from Saturday. I actually did some of the work despite the fact that only my girl appears in the pictures! This isnt a DIY just some pictures.

Nissan 370Z Forum - kielbasa16's Album: Fog Light Install

Also check out my 370Z & GTI album from the same day. My buddy came through to do a rear wiper delete and put on some polished chrome body pieces.

I disagree!
So far, the removal of the old dummy fog lamp is FAIL. Broken plastic pins and so much Loc-Tite on the nuts that I'm gonna have to Dremel them off.

I simply want my rear fog light to turn on and off, so the wiring will be the easy part!

:shakes head: damn nissan for making it so hard to remove our dummy fogs...

I posted a very simple way to remove that dummy fog somewhere. Before you even mess with the nuts you take your dremel cutting wheel and put a small slit in the stud. Now put your ratcheting wrench on the bolt and a flathead in your slit. Hold the flat head tight and start cranking.

http://www.the370z.com/members/cbric...nk-removal.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/cbric...ug-removal.jpg

OK, I'm now part of the rear fog light club!

After fighting with the dummy light, I was finally able to get to to removing some interior panels and running wires.
My hookup was simple since all I wanted the light to do was go on and off. Using the wiring harness with relay and switch available from The Z Store, I ran my wiring through a grommet on the passenger side where I spliced the hot wire the driver side license plate light wiring as demonstrated earlier in the thread. Then, I ran the wires and plug for the fog lamp between the aluminum bumper and styrofoam behind the rear fascia. I facilitated this route by popping off the rear tow hook plate and cutting out a channel in the styrofoam so the plug could slide down easily. This keeps everything neat and safe from the heat of the exhaust.
By the way, when I popped off the plate covering the tow hook mounting point, there wasn't a hole to screw the tow hook into. Weird.

http://www.the370z.com/members/lunaz...-fog-light.jpg

looks great :D

I've got the rear fog light ready to install, but I first took it to Radio Shack and the Nissan service dept. and neither place knew what gauge wire to use to splice the fog wire to the license plate wire. Does anyone here know what gauge to use? :confused:

16 gauge or 14 gauge is good... i think 14 gauge would be a lil over kill though

Courtesy of West Marine

Even the experts have to check occasionally on the correct gauge of wire for a given marine DC load. The simplest method we've found uses the charts below. Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes.
• Select either the 10% or 3% voltage drop chart, based on the type of load you are running.
• Next, find the current consumption of the load on the vertical axis of the chart.
• Find the length of the circuit on the horizontal axis of the chart, noting that the length is the "round trip" distance from the panel or battery to the load and back.
• The color of the graph at the intersection denotes the gauge of wire to use.

We've included copper wire specifications which comply with the AWG standards at the bottom. Of particular interest is the equation: Voltage Drop = Current x Length x Ohms per foot

This simple equation allows you to calculate the voltage drop for a circuit of any length and any current flow, if you know the resistance of the wire. Finally, note that the amp capacity of the wire curtails using very short lengths of wire for large current flows, as show by the "flat tops" of the 10% chart areas.

Attachment 12506

Wire gauge color codes in these charts correspond to AWG wire sizes.

These simple, proprietary graphs assume:
• 105ºC insulation rating: All Ancor wire uses 105ºC insulation rating. Lower temperature insulation cannot handle as much current (the flat tops on the 10% graph would be lower than shown)
• AWG wire sizes: Not SAE All Ancor wire uses AWG wire sizes. SAE wire sizes are 6%-12% smaller, carry proportionally less current, and have greater resistance
• Wires are not run in engine spaces: Maximum current is 15% less in engine spaces, which are assumed to be 20¼C hotter than nonengine spaces (50¼C vs. 30¼C).
• Conductors are not bundled: If three conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 30%. If 4-6 conductors are bundled, reduce maximum amperage by 40%. If 7-24 conductors are bundled, reduce amperage by 50%.
AWG Wire Specs

thanks for the info and diagrams, it made my install a lot easier. i installed mine as a 4th brake light with parking light feature, no flash. i did use male/female connectors so that if i wanted to add a flasher later it wouldn't be so hard to do.

anyhow, my extra tip... i used the tan 7443 harness end from the original Lexus IS300/Altezza brake light to obtain the low/high intensity (sourced from a junkyard). i had to shave the circumference of the harness down, and took out 2 of the locking prongs. it eventually sat snug and even locked into place within the light.

for wiring, i used the diagram that was previously provided here and of course i skipped over the flasher. hook up as follows:

nissan red wire - lexus green wire
nissan green wire - lexus green/white wire
nissan black wire - lexus white/black wire

as for the bolts, i didn't have any problem removing mine, just a little TLC with the removal. good luck with your installs and thanks again!

quick question,
in order to remove the taillights, i have to remove the panels to get to the inner bolt right?

yup :tup:

For any of the 2010 guys with the dummy harness already in the rear from the factory this picture shows which wire (beige) to splice to make "hot". The ground from the harness is functional. I just spliced my install into the mint green wire on the taillight harness (will make it function as a 4th brake light). BTW this is on the passenger side.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...andjunk023.jpg

good info bro!!!! :tup:

OK, so I've read through this thread twice. There is so much great information. The problem is I have elementary electronic skills, and am looking for advice about a very specific application.

I recently ordered the EVO-R flashing fog light. It comes with two hot leads: one to make the light blink, the other to make the fog come on solid. I want to make the light blink when in reverse (pretty sure I know how to do that). I want to make the solid option switched.

So, my question is, do I need the fog light harness and switch for the solid option? Or is there a simpler solution (e.g, switch wired into access. power under center console, connected to fuse to hot lead)?

I have done some car wiring and can run and connect any kind of line or low voltage home wiring. But I'm confused about how to solve this, and would rather not spend the $ on the Z store harness if I don't have to.

Thanks!

(sorry for the double post)
OK, so I've refined my idea a bit. I've ordered the "synchronizer switch" which is the S-mode console switch to the upper right of the shifter (I do not have the sport package, so all I have there now is the blank). I plan to wire this switch to the EVO-R LED rear foglight. I will probably use the yellow accessory wire that runs in the bundle through the center console.

I need someone to tell me if I have this right: I will tap into the yellow wire, and run this first to an inline fuse (how much? 1 amp? 2 amps?), then to the switch. From the switch I will run a line back to the hot lead of the foglight.

Sound right?

You can't use the S-mode switch because it is not latching, it is a momentary switch. Without a logic circuit you will need a latching switch.

Ah...OK, then plan B would be to use a second hazzard light switch. Would that work?

Yes the hazzard switch would work. If you get both switches you might be able to pop the cover piece off the S-switch on put it on the hazzard switch.

:tup: Great idea. Thanks!:tiphat:

If you wire it so it is a running light and brake light at the same time you would not need a switch plus you won't have to run wires all the way up to the front of the console.

I did this on mine works great.

Thanks for the suggestion, Baer383. I contemplated this option, but have been told that doing so may attract attention from the local law enforcement, and might fail me on my annual state safety inspection. The EVOR-R light has tow functions, so I will wire up the blinking lead directly to the reverse lights much in the same way you've wired to the brake lights.

I changed my order to get another hazzard switch instead of the s-mode switch. I also found out that at least one other forum member went with this option http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-r...fog-light.html Dang it! I thought I had an original idea for once!

I won't be getting to this install for at least a week, but will post pics when done!

Does the p-side kick just pull off? Oh, and are we talking about the soft pad that is on the center console, or the plastic cover near the passenger door/footwell? I haven't tried it yet, but plan on using the existing harness much in the same way you did.

Also, another post said the ground wire in that harness is "functional". Does that mean it is actually grounded someplace? The reason I ask is that I want to run two hot leads to the EVO-R fog light I'm getting, since it has two functions (one for blinking, one for solid). I'd like to use the "ground" wire in that harness for power if possible. The light has a ground (which I will connect to the grounding point in the trunk), and will ground the switch elsewhere.

Thanks!