disable auto a/c
 

Does anyone know how to set it so that that air conditioner does not automatically come on whenever you turn your air on. When I had my RSX there was a little trick that you had to do by holding certain buttons when you turned the car to on so then it never came on automatically again. I was wondering if anyone knows if there is a way to do it. It's annoying and I am thinking there is some way of disabling it.

I agree, its annoying but i just press the a/c button off and am done with it...

I asked my dealer about this and was told that when climate control is on auto, the AC light is on indicating AC is ready. It's not being used unless the temp setpoint you pick requires it. Not sure if that's true but it seems odd as it makes it look like the AC is always on. I just set the desired temp and forget it.
Seems to work.

No, you can hear the compressor and you lose like 25 hp. When the light is on, it is definitely on.

25HP? If you are in a Chevy Cruze maybe

It's probably more then 25. I'm not sure about your comment about a cruze.

I was always led to believe the A/C costs like maybe 5 hp.

I don't think I'm u set standing what the problem is... I always just turn my A/C on or off if I want it. It never just comes on by itself for me...?


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I know it's more than that. If you even change where the air is distributed it will pop on again. You also don't have full control of circulate or fresh air. It will force you to have fresh air on most settings. The air filters aren't good enough and you can smell outside air so I wish I could control that also. It's the worst thing about this car.

I agree, it is quite annoying. Mine will stay on "recycle" if i push the button but anytime I change the temp or whatever, it goes back to fresh air and i have to push the button again...

Even your entire home AC system doesn't require 18.5 kilowatts (25 HP).

The power draw isn't anywhere even close to 25 HP.

How do you figure you can use that number to a motor vehicle? I will bet that it is very close to 25hp if not more if you put your car on a dyno. That is the only way to tell. I'd love to see a graph with it off and on. The fact that your rpms jump up 250rpms while idling is a good sign it is greatly effecting your engine efficiency.

You wont see jackshit on the dyno because the AC shuts off when you go wot. 3HP can run a 4 ton compressor.

Because you can. Power is power is power is power. Doesn't matter in the slightest what units you measure it with.

Also keep in mind that the AC will disengage when you hit WOT. Really step on the gas and feel the vents... the air gets almost instantly warmer for a minute.

Otherwise as others suggested take it off auto... I tend to think it is not always engaged because even when heat comes from the vents the AC light never goes off.

Also no way you are losing 25 hp...

I too would like to be able to set my vent to recirculate without having to run the A/C, which our cars do not allow.

Because you can go buy a 3hp Electric compressor means absolutely nothing. You have to be the most ignorant person I have seen posting on this forum with no tuning experience.

I'm actually pretty ignorant about certain things like this when it comes to cars myself.. I'm curious to know who's actually right here.

25+ hp just to run a little air conditioner sounds excessively high.. but at the same time in my hatchback Civic (and other 4-bangers I've owned) I often turned the A/C off when merging onto the highway since it ate a really noticeable chunk of my acceleration away. I don't think 3hp off of 127 would affect it that much.

No need to start flaming each other though.. just have a cool discussion about it lol We all drive Z's so we're extra cool people here! :tup:

Oh and from reading the owner's manual + the service manual.. there doesn't seem to be any sort of hidden button sequence to change the default A/C settings like you're asking. I wish there was too.. it actually bugs me pretty often as well :(

Yes the ac does not use much power. It will shut off when wot i can feel it getting warm after a fast run. I run my ac all the time and can feel no difference with it on or off in power. I turn it off just for grins when I am going to run a fast car.

I hate the thing going to fresh air automatically everytime I turn it off or on.

Your car will turn into a rainforest and get foggy mighty quickly.

My 4 ton home Ac unit pulls 14500 watts... roughly 19 horsepower. 3 horsepower won't run a 4 ton AC compressor but I don't see our little car ac compressors pulling much more than a standard window AC unit that pulls between 2-3 horsepower or 2500-2300 watts depending on BTU rating.

2-3hp would be unnoticeable. Rpms go up at idle and I hear a big difference in my exhaust note when driving as my engine is more labored. If you are in touch with your vehicle's behavior at all you will notice lack of power and it is definitely present. I know when I feel sluggish I look down and sure enough the a/c is on. I wouldn't notice if it were only 2-3 hp. Searching on the net I have seen figures 5-15. I think our cars are on the high side or I am just very sensitive to noticing power change.

I've used my A/C on track several times to keep the windshield defogged in misty conditions. There was no difference in car feel, acceleration or lap times. An auto A/C compressor isn't quite as efficient as a home unit but the comparison isn't that far off. Power is power as was stated, the difference is in a direct drive compressor you will feel the drag more than the power loss (flywheel effect) and in the low rpm range where the car isn't making much power. At most it pulls 5hp when active and it does seem to disengage under WOT. You'll notice 5hp in a 100hp car, but not so much in a 300hp car.

I'm pretty sure the car has different ECU maps for use when the A/C compressor is on. The power you feel come back during WOT is the car switching maps. The timing, idle speed, etc are very different when the A/C compressor is on. Thus, who knows what power you do or dont lose, but its true that the compressor itself doesnt take up 15 hp.

If the ac compressor is overfilled it can cause a drag on the system when it's on.

Guys it says right in the manual if you hold the recirculating button down it turns off the automatic recycling mode and it stays where you put it.

Doesn't work.

Just did it

to the OP, i may not be understanding what you are trying to accomplish, but i just turn my fan setting off, and my AC will never come on. as far as the car switching to fresh air with many of the settings, its not just the Z, or even nissan for that matter. i've bought several new vehicles in the past few years, and they all have this feature. seems to be the direction they all are headed in as far as a default setting.

the thing about the AC draw from the power, yea it slows you down. same with every car or truck. how much for measurement's sake? i dont know. dont really care. i dont even turn mine off if someone tries to show me up. most of them are douchers anyway, who cant drive good enough to pass me even with a faster car lol

Coming from a guy who claims he lost 25HP with the AC on? Really? How many cars have you tuned?

14500 watt from a 4 ton? Is that AC from 1900? Thats like a 3 seer system. A 4 ton 16 seer is roughly 3000 Watts pull. Also if your number is correct, you are going to need a 66 amps circuit to run it!! (14500/220)

Yes it shuts off under wot. I have had to pull the car off the track due to fog. AC wont work anytime I was on the straight. The car does feel very odd, almost a jolt when you get off wot though.

Just leave the fan on & compressor off; when you restart the car, the compressor will not turn on as long as the fan was left on.:ughdance:

how stuff works
 

I don't think it's a different engine map.
It's the A/C clutch disengaging & putting less load on the engine. The compressors clutch is controlled by a pressure switch. It's cycling off & on every few seconds.
The temp control only controlls how much hot air is allowed to mix with the chilled air, it does not control how long the compressor stays on or off.

:werd:

Ive tried all the tricks in this thread and I cant get it so that the recirculated air is NOT on A/C. Anytime it is set to recirculate, the AC light comes on and i cant find a way to have it just blow recirculated air without the AC being on... the second i push the AC button to turn it off, it switches to fresh air...

It doesn't really matter to me that it disengages at WOT. I don't know about you guys, but I don't just want power when I am going in a straight line. If you feather the gas pedal in a corner, and even if you do go full throttle, it takes time for it to disengage. You guys that don't think it matters are just not race minded and aren't real drivers.

:icon18: :icon18: :icon18: :icon18:

Please for the love of god pay for a day on a dyno and see what very little hp you loose from your ac and report back. Since you know all in this world and the next about racing and cars in general. If you know so much why would you be asking anyone anything since they are all inferior beings? Do tell us, we all need you to guide us in your ways O'Lord internet racing. Have you ever even been to the track or done any HPDE events??

I got dibs for first spot in the cjr1881 racing school for real drivers!!!11!OMGWTFBBQ!1

From a man that has used his z on many track events, lap times don't lie.

We aren't, yet we know the difference between 5HP and 25HP.

See you at the track. (Look to the left, my car got up to 120mph in the pouring rain with the AC button on to defrost the windshield. It must be a miracle!)

Lol, the argument/importance of issue ratio in here is astronomical.


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