Originally Posted by Dwight Frye (Post 1722031)

This is why I am against the needless gadgets that car makers seem to think we need. The keyless entry is kind of cool, but a pushbutton start is a dumb *** idea. First of all, if you have a good size bunch of keys plus the fob in your pocket, it's uncomfortable and then you have to find other places for your keys.

Originally Posted by takjak2 (Post 1723017)

If this is really an issue for you, there is the fobgina on the left.

I enjoy the security electronic locks bring. No one is starting my Z with a screwdriver .

Originally Posted by 370Z JT (Post 1728700)

Just looked under the steering column on my 2009 and the lock reads 48700 JF00C - B1 - 01


Maybe my lock is spared?.

Originally Posted by MDZOwner (Post 1728703)

I have an 09 with less than 8k on the ODO and my RevA never had a prob...

But all this talk made me slightly neurotic so I swapped for the RevD ... Peace of mind was worth the cost to me!

Any way thanks to the forum for letting me know it was a problem at all!! I had it done while the car was in for a reverse cam upgrade.. Woo hoo I can see :-D

Originally Posted by MDZOwner (Post 1731104)

@kenchan..

Didn't follow on your rear wheel steering? ? As for doing a lock with a cam upgrade it just worked out that I wanted those things and had some good will to use with my dealer.

Your silver looks great btw, will keep me inspired :tiphat:

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1463523)

The work is clumsy but not difficult. takes no more than 15min start to
finish. This part should be recalled by Nissan since it prevents starting the
car leaving you stranded. Same problem (same part) recalled on the GTR's.

1) Intro to the problem:
-What happens is when you try to start the car, without warning, the electric
lock fails to unlock sending error message to the BCM. The car will not start
in this case and will flash the Intelligent Key warning in the cluster.

- If you have 48700-JF00A or 48700-JF00B, chances are your lock will fail.

- It was confirmed Nissan was using RevB to Fall 2009. A Oct2009 build 2010 Nismo
was using RevB and had a faulty lock.

- Nissan mentioned on the GTR recall that the steering lock was over oiled during
assembly causing some sort of electrical failure... but members are finding other
failures where the electric actuator was seized due to gear/shaft assembly malfunction.

- A member with a 40th 370Z with Jan 2010 build also fell victim on 1/19/2012..
He took a snap for us and verified that his lock is RevC. :( which means if his lock
suffered the same issue as the RevA and B, GTR's with the recalled locks that used RevC
could fail again. We will not know for sure though as it could have failed for another
isolated reason. Let's just hope this was an isolated incident.

- Nissan stopped using these locks on the 2012 Z's entirely, confirmed by a member
who looked on her car for us... which is not very convincing for those of us stuck with
the 'old' system. another member confirmed he could turn the steering L/R by hand
pushing on the tires while the front end is off the ground, car turned off....so there is
no substitute mechanism on the 3/2011 build to present.

2) Where to look for your steering lock revision:
- You can look under the steering column and see which revision your car has
(details where and what to look for, see DIY below)
- Your car's build date is located on the driver side door jam label.
- If you are currently stranded, scroll all the way to the bottom of the DIY for
temporary remedies to try.


3) How do I know if my steering lock is working?
- The motorized winding noise you hear when you push your starter-button is
your steering lock unlocking. You dont even need to start the car. Just push
your starter-button once to ACC. You hear a wind up noise from under the
steering column. That's the steering lock unlocking itself.

- You can also hear it when you shut down the car. Without starting the car
continue to push the starter-button twice to turn off. You will hear a winding
noise again.

Note: The steering-lock locks independently to the door locks so even if you
don't lock the doors the steering-lock functions.

4) DIY:

From here forward, do this at your own risk! Information and how-to is to
the best of my knowledge.


The replacement part is (revC and D): 48700-JF00C or 48700-JF00D.
If you can, get the JF00D as there is some uncertainty on the RevC's reliability.
Price is about $500 each.

while this might be a $500 part, it could cost me WAAAY more repairing/replacing
other parts from the towing and while sitting at the dealership waiting for the part
to come in. dont have time to be worrying about that.


Security screws (2pcs per set): 48703-06F0A (i used metric fastners
instead for easy removal next time... hope not).

here are tools i used. angled needle nosed pliers, flashlight, and a socket
for my replacement screws.

the key here is the angled needle nosed pliers. you need it to grab hold of
the security screw on the factory unit (2pcs) to remove. there is no hex or
phillip head.

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-16-15-613.jpg

stick your head under the steering column and look upwards for the steering
lock. the bottom part of the lock looks like this... it's actually in your face if
you take a good look with a flashlight.

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-46-35-141.jpg

remove the 2 round headed screws using the needle nosed angled pliers.
it's not torqued in all that tight, but it takes some effort to loosen. once
you get one of the 2 off, you can giggle the steering lock with your hand
to make the 2nd screw removal easier.

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-19-50-834.jpg

Then unclip the hardness. The tab is on the top side and easy to unlatch.

here is what it looks outside the car...The greasy one is from factory. Mine
is still working so I will leave this in my trunk for now as backup. :)

(The one i saw in the GTR forum which failed was shaped a little differently at the
top of the steering lock. The werd is the one that came off my car with RevB is
shaped the same way as the RevC aka revised lock). I am not sure if there is a
sub-revision within RevB or not, but watever... until Nissan explains this i didnt
feel like taking my chances or wasting my time worrying about this known problem).

Nissan mentioned on the GTR recall that the steering lock was over oiled during
assembly causing some sort of electrical failure so external appearance doesn't
seem to matter).

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-46-18-429.jpg

since my car's a hobby car and security isn't really an issue, i used 2 metric
bolts when putting it back together. I recommend you buy the security bolts
and see for yourself the length and width you need to buy if you decide to get
different screws.

The top screw is the Nissan security screw (the hex breaks off when
torqued). The bottom one is a regular metric screw i had in my screw
bin. :p

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-48-36-270.jpg

to put back together do everything in reverse. :)

here's a finished pict with my regular metric fastners. this will make it real easy to remove next time. :D

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...k-finished.jpg



- - - CREDITS - - -

btw, i want to thank DAVIN for his DIY at the GTR forum. :tup: i looked at his DIY on his GTR and noticed how easy the fix was.... on the Z it's even easier since no internal bits to remove. RevC was used on the GTR's recall as "good" parts. :)

also want to thank Mwagner07 :tup: for posting the datecodes below.




Also special thanks to Mike below for the NHTSA claims link:



Also special thanks to Z_Girl for verifying that the 2012's do not have this type steering lock.

Per yellogixxer, he could turn his late 2011's steering L/R off the ground while engine is off...
which means nissan used no steering lock mechanism on his car.


Per Vince on his thread, 3/11 build to current shows no steering lock in the parts list.
good find, vince! :tup: http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...imination.html

Special thanks to AWX Z34 for sending me info on his findings when he opened up his broken RevB:



He is the first one that I know that successfully FIXED his broken RevB steering lock!! :tup: Good job AWX Z34!!



special thanks to KORRUPT for posting up picts of the gut of the steering lock in this thread (post #374)!

Picts by KORRUPT, used with permission

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...pt-1-start.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-korrupt-1.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-korrupt-2.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...t-2andhalf.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-korrupt-3.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-korrupt-4.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-korrupt-5.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-korrupt-6.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kench...-korrupt-7.jpg


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

-- TEMPORARY POTENTIAL SOLUTIONS TO TRY IF YOU ARE STRANDED --

1) Try the edmunds technique.... Turn the car off completely. Unlock your steering column (the lever under the steering) and abruptly move the steering wheel all the way up and down several times while hitting the push-start button once to ACC. If you hear a winding nose your steering-lock is free and should start the car...continue starting the car. If you dont hear it, re-try.

2) Try the tapping technique (if you want to call it that).... Turn the car off. get under your steering column, locate your steering lock, tap at the steering lock itself GENTLY with a small hammer or plastic mallet...while you press the start button once. or even use one of your metal temporary tools in the trunk. If you hear a winding noise coming from the steering-lock it is free. You should be able to start the car. Continue to start the car. If you don't hear the noise continue tapping it and cycle through the starter button ACC/ON/OFF a few times slowly.

3) Try unplugging the steering lock harness and tap at the steering lock gently, plug it back in and try #2) above.

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 1848083)

chidz- it appears to be common people have this problem when the battery charge is low. it could be the steering lock causing a short/drain. when you push your start button, do you hear a windup sound coming from the steering column? If so that's your steering lock working. then when you shut off your car and open the door, you will hear the same windup noise again.


if you dont hear this, it's possible your steering lock has shorted. try unplugging it, tap it a few times, and plugging it back in. if it does come back, you might want to cut the brown wire on the harness (while the car is in ACC), or remove the steering lock fuse (while car is in ACC). check fritz's DIY for cutting the wire or Baer/Daisuke's DIY for fuse removal. GL

Originally Posted by Thechidz (Post 1849703)

I can't even open the doors now :ughdance:

Originally Posted by Thechidz (Post 1848009)

question: when your steering lock failed did the brakes feel really hard to push? I'm pretty sure my lock just failed but car is acting very weird. the interior lights are having a hard time coming on and it seems like the power is really low to everything electrical. I brought my car in last week as the navigation system broke down and ac was stuck on full blast, nissan is replacing entire navi unit under warranty. They sent me home with the car as it will take 3 weeks to get the parts. Now today this happens I'm not sure if it;s the steering lock or if its related to navi hvac problem?

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 1849851)

Extract the manual key from the fob, and use it to unlock the doors. The automatic window rolling thing doesn't matter for opening, it only matters for closing (so if the battery's so dead that the windows don't pop down a hair, don't slam them closed after!).

Are you sure it's not just a bad battery?

Originally Posted by AlphaSnacks (Post 1955400)

Try to bang on the steering lock to get the car to unlock the wheel. Once it does, leave the car in ACC mode, and pull the damn fuse so that it never locks again

Originally Posted by D370z (Post 1955504)

I was trough the exact same thing got stranded and didnt know what to do, i looked around in the forum nothing worked except this, now my car runs fine. doing this means your not gonna have a locked wheel when the car is off, if you dont mind heres how to start your car,


Take the steering lock out if know how if not remove the screws the it just comes off.

Follow instructions and pictures, this is from the forum.



1. first picture is old rev b lock
2. drilled out the tabs on the both sides with dremel
3. cover removed
4. removed #10 torx screws
5. circuit board removed
6. back piece with the gears
7. two tabs held down with piece of metal and electrical tape
8. all taped up and ready for testing
9. make sure you tape the end down or remove it so you can turn your steering wheel


Let me know if you need any other help!

Originally Posted by Roadkill (Post 1957782)

A couple of months ago I traded for a 2010 Touring Roadster with 32k miles. I've been following on the steering lock threads (getting nervous) and now have only a few miles left on the warrenty. I don't know the original owner or I would ask them. It has a build date of 11/09, but I've looked at the lock and it's Rev C. I'm not sure, but it may have been replaced already. Also, when I power the car on I don't hear the lock mechanism lock or unlock and even when off, the steering wheel will moves freely side to side. I'm just wondering if someone pulled the fuse already. As I remember drom the 350Z's, when the steering wheel locked, it didn't budge. Not sure about this one though. Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by fritz (Post 1958741)

D370Z said, on 11 or 12 Oct
Follow instructions and pictures, this is from the forum.
That forum "from the forum" posting (not 370Z's) is DANGEROUS and should be nowhere near a sticky.

If the lock is on the car with the motor connected and the sensors depressed then
the lock can LOCK THE STEERING while in motion:
In another thread I showed how to do "this" (but not with tape please) but installing it in an eyeglass case without the lock.
Depressing the lock element with tape is real "DIY" rubbish.
In fact the lock element is being depressed against a cush-spring but is actually held in
"locked mode with cush-spring depressed"

Tape will give way and the lock will engage when driving.
The motor will repeatedly press at the lock. Tape is ridiculous. A threaded bolt could do it but then there's a fire danger (as there may be, actually, with tape).
Further: the torque of the motor is not understood it will soon, with heat, stretch the tape holding on the cover and lift it to engage or disengage the motor gear. Screws are essential.

IN BLOCKS: I AM SHOUTING. THIS REMOVES FAIL SAFE AND HAS NO BUSINESS NEAR A DIY:::OR ANY SITE...apologies to the originator.....but!!!

By all means e-mail me for long, detailed, and fail-safe (for your health) instructions
but I need your real name and address as I do not want bits copied irresponsibly and I prefer cars not to be stolen. This is so serious that I give my own e-mail address Johnmacd@hotmail.com. which, unlike this site, I visit often.

Fritz:

Originally Posted by Tronchaser (Post 2035517)

Ok, just had this happen with my '10 model with a C revision code. I whacked it with a hammer and I was able to turn it on.

Question, should I pull the fuse to disable it? Or should I go ahead and have it replaced with a newer version?

Originally Posted by Tronchaser (Post 2035517)

Ok, just had this happen with my '10 model with a C revision code. I whacked it with a hammer and I was able to turn it on.

Question, should I pull the fuse to disable it? Or should I go ahead and have it replaced with a newer version?