Oil Cooler Blocker

crwallace1 · 11-29-2011, 06:15 PM

I installed the Z1 kit with the 25 row Setrab and the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, and experienced the same low oil temp issues reported elsewhere here. So I had to build a blocker, and it had to be easy to install and remove and not require removing the the lower engine bay cover each time I wanted to unblock the cooler.
I bought a piece of scrap coroplast, corrugated plastic commonly used for lawn signs. As such it is easily sourced at any sign shop. I cut the piece the same size as the oil cooler and drilled a hole in each corner. I put a #8 by 1/2" bolt through each hole and fastened with a nylon locknut.
I ordered four high temp neodymium 1/2 x 1/8" magnets (N42SH) from kjmagnetics.com, and glued one of these to each corner of the oil cooler face using Gorilla glue. It remains slightly elastic when cured, which seemed important since the aluminum cooler and iron magnets would expand and contract somewhat differently.
So my blocker attaches magnetically to the cooler, and to remove and install all I have to do is remove the upper radiator airflow guide and reach in and grab it, about a five minute job. I did have to remove the lower cover to do the initial installation, but that should be it.
So far it is working fine, and my freeway oil temp has gone from 160 to 210, where is was before I installed the cooler. I may cut a hole or two in the coroplast to allow some cooling airflow to fine tune my oil temp.
It seems crazy to spend big bucks on and oil cooler and then have to spend an afternoon to defeat it, but that seems like a good solution for a car that is a daily driver and track day participant.

brucelidat · 11-29-2011, 11:11 PM

Do you have any pics or a DIY? I am also having low oil temp problems.

brucelidat · 11-29-2011, 11:29 PM

I really like your set up since it doesn't require removing the bumper to put it on and take it off. Any pics would be much appreciated.

brucelidat · 11-30-2011, 12:02 AM

There are a few types of Gorilla glue, which ones specifically did you use? I understand you probably won't have any DIY pics since you already installed it, but some pics of accessing it now that it has been installed would be awesome.

TreeSemdyZee · 11-30-2011, 06:47 PM

Ima ask a dumb question. What's wrong with having 160º temps?

brucelidat · 11-30-2011, 11:47 PM

people say low oil temps are bad for your engine too. 180-220 is the ideal oil temp range for optimum engine protection and longevity.

adampetrasek · 12-01-2011, 12:54 PM

If the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate is suppose to stop allowing oil to go to the cooler at 180, why are you seeing 160?

EDIT: Nevermind. I just read that the temp sensor is after the oil cooler. Maybe it would be a good idea to get a thermostatic plate that opens around 200, if something like that exists....

11-29-2011, 06:15 PM	#1 (permalink)
crwallace1 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: SF Bay Area Posts: 3 Drives: 2011 370 M6 Rep Power: 13	Oil Cooler Blocker I installed the Z1 kit with the 25 row Setrab and the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate, and experienced the same low oil temp issues reported elsewhere here. So I had to build a blocker, and it had to be easy to install and remove and not require removing the the lower engine bay cover each time I wanted to unblock the cooler. I bought a piece of scrap coroplast, corrugated plastic commonly used for lawn signs. As such it is easily sourced at any sign shop. I cut the piece the same size as the oil cooler and drilled a hole in each corner. I put a #8 by 1/2" bolt through each hole and fastened with a nylon locknut. I ordered four high temp neodymium 1/2 x 1/8" magnets (N42SH) from kjmagnetics.com, and glued one of these to each corner of the oil cooler face using Gorilla glue. It remains slightly elastic when cured, which seemed important since the aluminum cooler and iron magnets would expand and contract somewhat differently. So my blocker attaches magnetically to the cooler, and to remove and install all I have to do is remove the upper radiator airflow guide and reach in and grab it, about a five minute job. I did have to remove the lower cover to do the initial installation, but that should be it. So far it is working fine, and my freeway oil temp has gone from 160 to 210, where is was before I installed the cooler. I may cut a hole or two in the coroplast to allow some cooling airflow to fine tune my oil temp. It seems crazy to spend big bucks on and oil cooler and then have to spend an afternoon to defeat it, but that seems like a good solution for a car that is a daily driver and track day participant.

11-29-2011, 11:11 PM	#2 (permalink)
brucelidat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: temple city, ca Posts: 2,432 Drives: 2011 370z 7AT GM Sp Rep Power: 30	Do you have any pics or a DIY? I am also having low oil temp problems. __________________ Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

11-29-2011, 11:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
brucelidat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: temple city, ca Posts: 2,432 Drives: 2011 370z 7AT GM Sp Rep Power: 30	I really like your set up since it doesn't require removing the bumper to put it on and take it off. Any pics would be much appreciated. __________________ Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

11-30-2011, 12:02 AM	#4 (permalink)
brucelidat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: temple city, ca Posts: 2,432 Drives: 2011 370z 7AT GM Sp Rep Power: 30	There are a few types of Gorilla glue, which ones specifically did you use? I understand you probably won't have any DIY pics since you already installed it, but some pics of accessing it now that it has been installed would be awesome. __________________ Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

11-30-2011, 11:47 PM	#6 (permalink)
brucelidat A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: temple city, ca Posts: 2,432 Drives: 2011 370z 7AT GM Sp Rep Power: 30	people say low oil temps are bad for your engine too. 180-220 is the ideal oil temp range for optimum engine protection and longevity. __________________ Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

11-30-2011, 06:47 PM	#5 (permalink)
TreeSemdyZee Premium Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kentuck-IANA Age: 59 Posts: 4,880 Drives: '09 370 & ‘14 Juke Rep Power: 27408	Ima ask a dumb question. What's wrong with having 160º temps?

12-01-2011, 12:54 PM	#7 (permalink)
adampetrasek Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 283 Drives: 370Z 40thAnniversary Rep Power: 14	If the mocal thermostatic sandwich plate is suppose to stop allowing oil to go to the cooler at 180, why are you seeing 160? EDIT: Nevermind. I just read that the temp sensor is after the oil cooler. Maybe it would be a good idea to get a thermostatic plate that opens around 200, if something like that exists.... __________________ 370Z Photo Log \| Flickr \| AdamPetrasek.com Last edited by adampetrasek; 12-01-2011 at 01:18 PM.

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