good write up

Guys.. anyone know exactly what size socket would be needed to get around the oem oil pressure sensor? I'm pretty sure you'd need a 27mm deep-well socket but can't say for sure.

Trying to install my HKS sensor and because the oil filter relocation lines for the GTM SC kit go right under the sensor, my only option is getting a socket on it. (Other than disconnecting the lines obviously) Need to go buy one that big so thought I'd ask..

btw thanks for posting this up Alex.

My pleasure.

27mm it is.

Awesome. thank you sir.

:tiphat:

Nice vid :tup:

So where are oil pressures at about 140-150 F?

Still too high for any sporty driving. At 140-150F, 2k rpm still runs 90psi and idle is about 30psi. It's not until temps reach 180F that the 2-3k rpm range settles down. I think the ideal temp is 200F. At this temp, highway driving of 2-3k rpm has PSIs ranging from 50-70 and idle is 15psi.

Good info, thanks :). I always warm up anyways, but frequently I'm already on the road rolling slow by the time the oil hits 140, and at 160 I'll drive "normal", but not hard WOT stuff till 180+.

For those of you with coolers: if you have a thermo plate, you don't have to worry *too* much about pressure damage to the cooler when the oil isn't fully warm. Based on my conversation with the MOCAL guy a while back (who made my thermo plate), the design of the thermo is that both pathways are fully open when the oil's cold. The bypass (that skips the cooler) gradually closes off over a ~5-10 degree range centered on the thermo plate's temp rating. Meaning even with a 180 thermo, you don't completely lose the bypass until 185-190-ish, and by then the oil should be thin enough to be fine.

If you don't have a thermo plate, all that pressure is going straight to the cooler when the oil's cold, and I'd be a lot more careful.

Great info -- and yes, definitely consistent with what I have always read were optimal oil temps for spirited driving -- great write up :tup:

A word to the wise...

I used teflon tape on the pressure sensor fittings during my initial install. Going back to check things this past week, all the pressure sensor fittings were loose! It turns out that teflon tape deteriorates a bit with time. This led to tight fittings becoming loose when the bulk of the tape disappeared. So, I'd suggest some RTV on the threads instead of teflon tape. Then you can tighten them down and rest assured they're secure.

Chris - did you ever find out about compatible gauges, or for sure that the dummy-sensor side of the one you found would be compat with our car? What's the one you found?

Alex - any concerns about the swaybar hitting your adapter setup, or is it high enough above it to be out of range? It looks high enough in the pics, just making sure. I guess the alternative would be to use a 90 degree adapter right off the bat, towards the oil filter.

No worries at all. That portion of the sway bar is as close to the fittings as it'll ever get. The front wheels are unloaded (car on jack stands), so the bar has already pivoted upwards as far as it can go. Once on the ground, there is even more clearance.

VDO 360023 is a 150 psi sender with a 7.0 psi idiot light output M10 thread.
VDO 360025 is a 150 psi sender with 11.4 psi idiot light output and 1/8 NPT thread.

The sender feed is designed for the VDO gauge, couldn't figure out what else it might be compatible with.

Jegs seems to have the best prices on the VDO stuff, here is their listing.
VDO Pressure Senders - JEGS

this is a great DIY. I'm ordering everything you did because i like yours so much. Planning on doing the Oil Cooler install at the same time. Does the gauge come with that pod you have shown attached to your dash or no?

The pod the gauge installs into is a separate purchase. I used the Autometer 2204.

Here's the link to JEGS but Amazon has it as well:
Auto Meter 2204 Auto Meter Mounting Cups & Panels
Amazon.com: Auto Meter 2204 Black Gauge Mounting Cup: Automotive