Finally finished this project

http://www.the370z.com/members/hocke...handle-sun.jpg

Like many of you guys, I dropped the bolts too. Does anybody know how long the 10mm bolts are so I can replace them?

Small Hint- On those tiny little screws that have the blue loctite on them that hold the brackets to the door handle. Use a heat gun at around 500 degree F for a short period of time (try 10 seconds first) if the screws still won't budge give it another 5-10 seconds. I did this for my door handles and the screws came out flawlessly. This will eliminate you having to remove the black cable from inside the door and will let you get the braided cable's bracket off easy.

!!! WARNING !!!- Do not overheat the door handles...you will melt stuff. Some of that plastic melts if u leave the gun on there too long. Try the 10 seconds @500 first and see if the screws budge -!!! WARNING !!!

When the door handles are off do you guys just leave your car door open and roll down the windows? Do you guys disconnect your battery?

I would just keep the windows down, even if you take the handles off the door will still latch, but you need to be able to get to the interior handle to open the door again.

Thanks for the help 90st!


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No worries

Question.. Might be dumb but.. How did you paint it without the button or handle sticking?

I really want to do this but I've never painted so if you could tell me in a "painting for dummies" style.. I would really appreciate it.

:iagree:

first things first, paint a block of wood or something first haha. get the style down. Sweeping, 6 inches, etc... after that, its simple. Just tape off the area, lightly sand the handle with fine grit sand paper. wash the handle. Then just paint. super easy my freinds.

The handle won't stick. Its paint not epoxy haha. just spray and keep the coats light. thats really the key to spray painting any way. multiple light even coats. Dont worry, the handle is far to vigorously used for simple spray paint to seal it. Its all good :) You will, however, eventually have peeling that you will have to touch up with a paint pen or something. Comes with the teritory though.

Wheres the pictures..?

Door handle removal tips
 

This thread is pretty thorough, but after spending a few hours installing my newly painted door handles, I have a few pointers:

1. Do passenger side first. It has one less bolt and no lock. You'll need the experience for the driver side.
2. Use a cardboard channel to remove the bolts. I did not and when I pulled back the magnetic socket, it caught on the hole and dropped INSIDE the door (duh).
3. You'll have to remove the lock on the driver's door (single screw on side). Simple removal.
4. Get a 10mm 1/4" u-joint socket/adapter for that additional bottom bolt. You'll have one hole to get out 2 bolts.
5. Have someone nearby that has smaller hands to reach in and disconnect the blue wire-connector. It is not easy when they are tightly held together. You can have a rough time getting them apart with only your fingers of one hand. Getting them back together is simple.
6. If you remove the door panel, you can easily disconnect the black assembly for the blue connector (for lock button). This will give you more slack to pull apart the blue wire-connector.
7. Don't think that removing the door panel and interior metal plate will help...unless you plan on drilling out the rivets to the plate.

Overall it went well but took much longer than expected due to #5 on the driver side. Sorry, no installation pics.

:iagree:

Not a good write up anymore..

OK, I do not have a smaller pair of hands available, and I get all thumbs when working on cars

so how does the connector come apart... I know it's tight, any hints would be appreciated...
:confused:

The passenger side just pulled apart. I believe a very small screwdriver, or similar, is needed to slide along the blue connector. Just don't drop the tool in the door. It really is a PITA to uncouple if they are tightly fitted. I ended up marking the wires (they were both solid black) and spliced them back together. It was not what I intended, but I spent too much time on that connector.

You don't need to disconnect the wiring for the button. Just loosen one and unscrew the other of the two Phillips screws that hold the button in place in the back of the handle. Once it's out just pop the button out from the rubber retainer.

Piece of cake.

Here's a quick pic from the handles I removed (I ordered a second set to paint so I could get them ready and not be without in the meantime). The metal cover plate at the bottom marked with an L and attached with one screw is what I'm talking about.

Since I had one handy here's the button and its rubber retainer.

And when you're unscrewing the two bolts inside the door use your ratchet or driver to get the all but he last thread or two out, then use a magnet to get the last bit and pull them out. No worries about dropping them into the door panel then. I have an awl shaped like a pen that has a magnet on the 'eraser' side for just such a use. They are about $5 at Home Depot or automotive parts stores.

I tried that also. Those 2 screws were way too tight. I couldn't get the leverage (due to the attached wires) to unscrew. I was afraid of stripping them. It was hard to hold the part and unscrew something so tight. I agree with you though, it is easier your way, if you can.
When my magnetic socket fell in the door, I just removed my speaker and used a telescopic magnet. That was probably the easiest part of the job. LoL

Truth ^^^this is the worst part of the install...I cannot stress this enough...them bitches dont come out and you will strip them....before you strip them get a offset screwdriver. Its the one that is shaped like an S. Any other screwdriver will strip them. Once I started using this they all came out...better leverage and ability to apply pressure.

Another tip that worked for me...when you taking off the main bolts 2 on passenger and 3 on drivers side...take some thin cardboard and shape a funnel/tube then put in the hole in the door up to to the bolt. This will still give enough clearance to get your 10mm in and that way when you undo the bolt it cannot drop down into the door. I also had one of those pointer like magnetic grabbers so when I got the bolt out and it dropped on the cardboard I then used the magnet to retrieve it...hell no did I want something dropping in the door...:shakes head:

Also I did not need to remove the lock on the drivers side...my car is a 2013 Nismo maybe its different then some of these other guys saying you have to remove it...?? I pushed up wiggled etc. and out and the handle came off...when I put it in it just went over the lock no problem...

How do you pull the pins out to separate the handle part from the assembly?

I was able to get the handle part separated from the assembly. I drilled the heads of some of the rivets. Then i had a local machine shop drill and tap end end so I could re-assemble.

Check out the link to some pictures below.

Nissan 370Z Forum - HockeyAnimal1's Album: Door Handle Project

I thought it was worth the trouble to make sure the paint was even.

Thanks for the tip and the other write up. I drilled the heads on just the main pins (the ones with the main spring). That gave the handle enough play to where I didn't have to completely remove the handle which the paint shop said they can work around. I then drilled and tapped the pin just like you did. It looks like it's going to work great, handles are in the paint shop now. Once again, great write up.

Thanks! Good to hear I'm not the only one out there crazy enough to drill out the rivets! Look forward to seeing finished handles!

I never would have done it without your diy. It was kind of scary drilling and tapping them (you only get one try), but everything went great. It could be a couple of weeks before I get them back from the paint shop, I took a few other parts in to be painted also.