Takes roughly 5 minutes to remove the bumper.

hello. probably a dumbass as question but....

i took off the bumper and under car plastic guard(s) several weeks ago when i did the z1 oil cooler install. i left it off so i can do my intake install which will be done next week. (not driving the car right now)

Now I forgot which parts, an assortment of clips, metal screws and plastic clips go.

please help! lol I know it aint that easy. I promise next time I wont have the same problem lol

Great write up. I ******* crushed the intake tubes on the passenger side with those clamps. They just kept tightening.... :shakes head:
Now I'm stuck wondering how much I might have impeded air flow.

Using foam around the intake and the holes you had to dremel seems like a great idea. I have been getting a little rattle from the passenger side (only noticeable when in reverse for some reason).

How has the foam been holding up now that you have driven it around some?

Thanks for the great write-up AK :tiphat:

I also used this Dremel accessory and it was a breeze. Just a couple of minutes each side and the hole was large enough. I did a Z1 silicone hose swap while I was doing the install as well as adding a 24 row oil cooler (since I had the bumper dropped):

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...smo-emblem.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...-strut-bar.jpg
.
.

So whats up Doc?
 

So.... I'm new and all but...how does one replace/clean the filters on this set-up?:ughdance:

Remove the front bumper to clean filters

You're welcome :tup: . I am glad I could post it for you guys so that you can get useful information before tackling this install.

I am updating this info: I should mention here that for 2013 models, there are electrical wiring that's attached to front bumper. Please use extreme caution when you take it off. If anyone with 2013 Z takes off their front bumper, please send me some pics so that I can update it. (thank you xTETOVABOYx)

Post updated with pics
 

Here are some pictures of 2013+ front bumper led wiring: Huge thanks to xTETOVABOYx for providing me with the pics. Thank you

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps890479e4.jpg
Passenger Side Connection On picture #1

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps9e9caf71.jpg
Passenger Side LED picture #2

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps1245fd85.jpg
LED on Driver Side , Shows how long wire is picture #3

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...psbc9657dc.jpg
Actual led of the driver side picture #4

AK, great thread and pics. Makes installing this thing look possible to even the most amateur of enthusiasts :)

Few questions...

I've read elsewhere (links below) that following installation of this Stillen G3 system, a tune (preferably uprev) is essential as the air / fuel ratios are wayyy out of whack. Thoughts?

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...tml#post461753

Also, if you've added/adding an aftermarket CBE and/or HFCs (such as FI), the power benefits of this CAI are somewhat minimal if any...

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...tml#post461135

Perhaps drop-ins are the way to go for those who have aftermarket CBEs / HFCs??

i hope this helps most of you with the 2013 bumper ! , loving the Gen 3's :)))

Thanks man, that was my main concern if the Gen 3 fit the 13 model year. Cause not even in the stillen page is it updated for the 13 model. Quick question, do the wires for the LEDs unplug or do you have to take the whole LEDs apart from the bumper?

awesomeawesomeawesome i cant wait to get the stillen g3s now

Thanks AK, just installed them this weekend. Never would have tried it without your DIY.

they unplug, really simple

Refer to picture one. The plug is right under the reservoir on the passenger side, Refer to picture 3 for drivers side. the plug is right on the led as you can see it from a top view

Where did you get that filler foam stuff?

Got mine, this thing is amazing :happydance:

Here are two more photos of the LEDS to compliment xTETOVABOYx pics. Thanks for the DIY. :tiphat:

I noticed one post mentioned the CEL light came on. Shortly after my install I had the service engine soon light on... throwing code P0300... reset the and checked the MAFs and clamps... all good. The SES light came right back on. Anyone else have this issue?

I was noticing on the stillen website that the GIII's that are made for the G37 come with some sort of splash gaurds for the filters. I was wondering if the GII's for our Z's have it as well? Only reason I am asking is because the stillen website does not mention it coming with the intakes, I haven't seen anyone installing them on their Z's, and I thought the parts for the G37 and 370Z were interchangeable for the most part. I really want these but idk if I should due to the fact that water can get them. The gains are ridiculous and it just looks awesome when you open up the hood IMO. Any help is appreciated, thanks! :tiphat:

The G37 and 370Z intakes are not interchangable

I I stalled mi e today using a burr bit on my diegrinder....made cutting a whole lot faster. Both holes modified in approx. 3min. All in all 2hrs for install. Forgot to put my stirafoam bumper on.

Another fast way to cut the holes is use a drill. Drill a couple of holes horizontal and go straight up with the drill bit. That's what I did since I don't have a cutter.

That's what I did too, the dremel saving was taking WAYYYYYY too long

Thats why I have a $14 diegrinder and air compressor with burr bits. Easier than grading cheese!

Also thought I might add, it would be useful to pur your wipers at top center and shut the carr off so you can get plastic panel off to gain access to rear mounting bolts on strut brace. Just a fyi incase it wasn't covered in this write up.

Thanks. I used some of this to help me install my AEM intake.

Now where was that posting of resetting the door open auto windows up down.......

1. Push the ignition switch to the ON position.

2. Close the door.

3. Open the window completely by operating
the power window switch.

4. Pull the power window switch and hold it to
close the window, and then hold the switch
more than 3 seconds after the window is
closed completely.

5. Release the power window switch. Operate
the window by the automatic function to
confirm the initialization is complete.

6. Perform steps 2 through 5 above for other
windows.

So, took the car to the Dyno with the Stillen G3, 295 Hp. not bad. That's gonna be my baseline. Amazing intake...

Thanks, I did a little searching and found it right before you post. Everything is all good now.

Good job Kabestro. I'll have to do the same with my AEM intake. I wanted to get baseline but car was out of commission when I had the chance.

Just a follow up to my previous post... I tightened the hell out of all the clamps and swamped the MAF sensors. Then I placed the negative back on the battery and completed an ECU reset. After the reset, I started the car and let it idle for 15 minutes... haven't had an indicator light on since, over 300 miles now - seems like it worked!

Used this guide to install my G3 today. Thanks for posting it!

AK, Thank you for pointing out the A/C lines rubbing the Intakes. This will safe $$$ cost of repairs. Good looking out!

thank you for the wright up. it helped out a lot

Thank you so much for this guide! I don't think I would've been able to do this in the time that I did... those stillen instructions were confusing!

This is doing way too much if you ask me. It is very easy to take off the OEM intake by disconnecting both ends of the tube first. You have plenty of room to do this. Installing the new intake is fairly easy to do with the brace on. Just position the clamp at an angle where the brace is not blocking the screws on the clamps.

I'm gonna install my g3s soon but I had a quick question. I know AK shows that it would be beneficial to wrap the AC lines so that it doesn't mess it up, but do we have to put any kind of padding or cover around the radiator support? Any input is appreciated guys thanks.

I did....the pipes do pulse so you could hear a resonating sound through the car. I wrapped mine with rubber at the support beams.

Thanks for the input I'll keep that in mind as an option :tup: rep for you sir!

Any other ideas?

Most common thing that happens with the installation is scratching of the lower pipes upon installation. You can leave the plastic on the lower pipes while you're fitting them, then remove later. Added protection against the aluminum scraping while installing.

That being said, they are aluminum pipes, you can sand/buff the scratches out, but so much less work to just take a couple extra minutes during the install.