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The final steps after installation... Bed your brakes. I have a nice stretch of highway that's usually deserted where I can get mine nice and hot. Make a U-turn and
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02-08-2016, 09:58 AM
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#16 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 972
Drives: slower than before
Rep Power: 386   |
The final steps after installation... Bed your brakes. I have a nice stretch of highway that's usually deserted where I can get mine nice and hot. Make a U-turn and then let them cool for about 10 minutes at highway speed while I drive home. I can do the whole thing without ever having the car come to a complete stop. I think this is optimal.
Finally... Brake fluid will eat your paint! I like to wash and wax after handling brake fluid around the car. Call me paranoid but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
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|RIP|6spd-sport|OSG-LSD|XP8|RBF600|Eibach Sways|RE-71R|FI-34Row|Gen3-CAI|Yaw P.S.| |
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02-08-2016, 10:21 AM
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#17 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 43
Posts: 36,449
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Rep Power: 2684440 |
Very nice write up! I am looking to do this in the near future. Thank you
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 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | |
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02-08-2016, 11:30 AM
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#19 (permalink) |
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Track Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Age: 43
Posts: 618
Drives: 09 370Z, 14 SRT GC
Rep Power: 34 |
Btw, Carbotech does not recommend using backing plates of any kind on their pads. If in doubt, give em a call. Their number is on the box. And their pads come with specific bedding instructions.
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 '09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare '14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S Last edited by RN SHARK; 02-08-2016 at 11:33 AM. |
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02-08-2016, 12:47 PM
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#20 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: chicago
Posts: 783
Drives: '12 G37 6MT
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For bleeding/flushing, i've found the motive power bleeder to be best. It pressurizes the brake reservoir, you then just need to go around each wheel and open the bleeder screw. Wait til new fluid comes out then close, move on to the next.
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02-08-2016, 01:29 PM
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#21 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 43
Posts: 36,449
Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3
Rep Power: 2684440 |
 I love one-man brake jobs with my Motive Power Bleeder 
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2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic | ARC | CJM | Ecutek | FI | Fujimura | R2C | SPL | Stillen | TWM | Z1 | ZSpeed | |
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02-14-2016, 11:57 PM
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#23 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Age: 43
Posts: 618
Drives: 09 370Z, 14 SRT GC
Rep Power: 34 |
How often should you do the caliper seal kit? Replace the rubber boots and whatnot?
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'09 6sp/Z1/PowerTrix/SPL/Swift/SRP/Whiteline/F.I.LTH&CBE/UpRev by Seb/CJM/Stillen/Ings+1/RJM/TrackSpec/Sparco/Motul/Wavetrac/Coolerworx/Verus/CraftSquare '14 SRT Grand Cherokee; '08 TL Type-S |
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02-22-2016, 10:01 AM
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#24 (permalink) |
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Track Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 972
Drives: slower than before
Rep Power: 386 |
If the boots are torn they should be replaced. I see you have carbotech brakes. There's been at least one torn both times I've changed pads. BTW, I run XP8s as a daily driver with occasional canyon runs so they get a lot of miles and do get hot once in a while. You could probably get away with just doing the boots but why take the chance of getting crud in the seal or damaging it.
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