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DIY - Complete Brake Rebuild F&R

Next, clean all the inside using a brand new clean rag. Don't get grit or grime in here, this area needs to be pristine. Grease the seal with the provided

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Old 02-08-2016, 09:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Next, clean all the inside using a brand new clean rag. Don't get grit or grime in here, this area needs to be pristine. Grease the seal with the provided grease and press it into the groove. Work both ends around, the last part will curl up but just work on it. It'll pop in. Then give it a visual to make sure you didn't put a twist in it. Grease the dust boot in the areas that will be touching metal. Not sure if you're supposed to pack the inside or not since they gave me a second type of grease that could be used for that. I left mine dry since it was dry when I took it apart. Put the boot on the piston then slide the piston in. I put a very light film of grease on the piston OD so it would slide in more easily. Push the boot in between the piston and the clipper. I used a small screwdriver to get it to seat all the way. Then get the metal clip in the gap and push gently until it snaps into position.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Time to get the pads and rotors ready. For the pads, remove the backing plates (make sure you remember the order they came off) from your old pads and clean them with a rag. If they were greased the previous time, the dirt should just wipe off. Then put a thin layer of the brake quite grease on each surface and put them on your new pads. There should be enough grease that they stick together but not so much that it's oozing out everywhere. They're ready to go. Give your new rotors a once over. I didn't like how the paint had the bumpy surface so I block sanded them off prior to installation.
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File Type: jpg Pads_02.jpg (240.1 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg Pads_01.jpg (223.4 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg Rotor_01.jpg (86.1 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg Rotor_02.jpg (113.2 KB, 38 views)
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Assemble everything back together. If you don't have a good feel for this, get the torques from Nissan. Basically revers order of removal. Easiest thing to forget are the little clips that hold the pins in. Make sure they are there before putting the wheels back on.

Then you need to bleed the brakes. Generally accepted method is to start from the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder and work you way towards it. I would recommend doing your calipers in that order so you don't have to go back and forth. Also, make sure your reservoir does not go empty!

I use the second person approach to bleeding. Press the brake, open valve, release fluid, close valve, release brake and repeat. Important...close the valve before you release pressure from the brake.

I also think it's a good idea to put a label on your reservoir to keep some tech with good intentions from putting the wrong fluid in your system causing you to do a complete brake bleed.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Assemble_01.jpg (150.9 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg assemble_01b.jpg (120.2 KB, 43 views)
File Type: jpg Assemble_02.jpg (123.5 KB, 49 views)
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:58 AM   #4 (permalink)
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The final steps after installation... Bed your brakes. I have a nice stretch of highway that's usually deserted where I can get mine nice and hot. Make a U-turn and then let them cool for about 10 minutes at highway speed while I drive home. I can do the whole thing without ever having the car come to a complete stop. I think this is optimal.

Finally... Brake fluid will eat your paint! I like to wash and wax after handling brake fluid around the car. Call me paranoid but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
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File Type: jpg Assemble_03.jpg (119.9 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Assemble_04.jpg (131.8 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Assemble_05.jpg (171.9 KB, 28 views)
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