Hello, did anyone here get the QJ 5000 model? Curious if the length worked out ok.

Yes, they are exactly where the rubber blocks will go. It is important that the jacks are used on the correct side of the car so that the lock arm can be reached. I have labeled my jacks left and right and also put an arrow showing which direction they should go. Look at the picture of my car on the QJ. The car should move forward during the lift.

I place the jacks about one inch BEHIND each front wheel. Place the front rubber block as far forward as it will go. It should be where the notches are for the front lift point. The rear blocks are about midway in the tray to line up with the rear jacking point. Lift QJ up a little and make sure the rubber blocks are centered on the pinch weld and then go on up.

After a couple of lifts you will get the hang of it.

Yep. Had mine up in the air all day yesterday. New brake calipers and stainless lines. I love 'em.
Proper bleeding is definitely a must I found out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick Jack to the rescue for my 1977 Fiat Spider. I'm doing a bunch of maintenance on it including rebuilding the carbs (dual Webers), a valve adjustment, new brake fluid, new coolant and a general going over.

I'm the third owner of this car so it has been well taken care of all of its life. At 80K miles I did a complete restoration of all of the drivetrain, interior and suspension. That was now 17 years ago......... She is still holding up well and only has 95K miles total on her so about 15K miles since the rebuild.

Both cars get about the same reaction when I take them out.

Nice this would help a lot when working on the Z. Would there be any issues if the ground it's on has just a slight downhill slope?

Depends on "how slight" you mean. It would need to be very little. You still have a car over 3,300 pounds over your head.

Looking at getting this system.
Has anyone confirmed if the BL-5000SLX will work on our Z's?
On the Z's, are you using the pinch-weld blocks?

Actually, looking at the BL-7000SLX now. Using their measuring guide, it looks like this will work on my Z as well as the wife's Armada and my Ram 1500.
Doesn't look like it will ship until October though... :eek2:

I am hot for the Dannmar MaxJax. I believe Chuck has one.

I actually kind of wish they made a permanent install version of it.

I was looking at that one as well. Nice unit!
Not sure how thick my garage concrete slab is. They say that the flush mounted anchors need 4" of concrete. Not sure how thick mine is.

I have the BL-7000slx and it works on my 370z and my Highlanders

Awesome, thank you for confirming that it works on your 370Z!
I think I'm going to submit my order since back orders are filled on a first come first serve basis when they get back in stock.

Getting ready to order this system...
Do the people with this system use the pinch - weld rubber blocks?

I'm planning on it. I haven't used mine since I received them.
Ordered in February and just got them last month.
Even though my pinch welds have seen better days, I still like the idea of resting in tracks.
I think I'll be able to get the smaller blocks in also, thereby getting more height. I haven't been able to use anything but the large blocks due to the shape (uneven) of my driveway.

Ok, I will get those as well. Which model do you have?
Do the lifts now come with the dust caps for the lines when in storage or do we need to purchase those separately?

I've got the 3500. Mine came with and tall block, dust caps, lines and lifts. The only thing I had to buy was hydraulic oil.

Right on, thank you!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hi, did you place the rubber blocks on the pinch weld or is there another location that these are placed on?

On the pinch weld.

jliu, I have a couple follow up questions regarding lifting your 370Z.
With your BL-7000SLX, are you using just the pinch-weld blocks to lift your Z?
Are you at stock height?
Do you have to drive onto blocks of wood or spacers to give enough distance so the lift isn't lifting from almost completely lowered?
I called Quick Jack and talked to their Customer Service department and they recommend having at least 2" or a bit more of clearance when fully lowered so that it can build enough pressure/momentum to lift the car.
With my calculations, I will have 1" or less clearance when all the way lowered with the pinch/weld blocks. I am at stock height.
And for lifting your Highlanders, do you use the SUV adapters?
Thanks for any input you can offer.

My car is lowered with the Swift springs so the quick jack will still fit under the side, but it has almost no room to place the rubber clock under the pinch weld.
I just jack up my car and place three 2x10" stacked under each corners. I made a adaptor for the pinch weld with two hockey pucks. I stack one puck on top of the order and fasten the two pucks together with some dry wall screws. Then I cut a slit right in the middle of the top puck. The slit will fit right over the pinch weld.

Then I slide the quick jack underneath and place slowly raise the jack with the rubber block with the hockey pucks on top to fit over the pinch weld.

As for the highlanders I made some wood blocks and use the same hockey puck adaptors I made.

Hope that helps.

It does. Thank you very much!

Received my Quick Jack BL-7000SLX today.
Set up took about an hour and a half (was taking my time).
I put about an inch and a quarter spacing under the pinch blocks to give clearance between the Quick Jack frames and the car's side skirts.
Lifts it without any issues. It will also be able to lift our Armada and my Ram 1500 Sport Crew Cab.
Perfect height for me and my creeper.
Here is a link to a couple pictures. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tzvbyzegu...J_8GnfZ8a?dl=0
This thing is awesome! :happydance:

So, my Z is TTed and when it is stored for the winter, I am supposed to start it every couple weeks and let it run for 15-20 minutes to keep fluids circulated.
I have the Z up on the the Quick Jacks with the pinch blocks in the factory lift locations.
My question is, is it safe to start the car and let it idle for the 15-20 minutes while it's up in the air on the Quick Jacks or should it be lowered everytime I need to start it to circulate the fluids?
Thanks for any advice.

Wouldn't see why it would be a problem. If it's already up and secure, then running shouldn't be an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I thought. Just second guessing myself regarding vibrations while it's idling and up in the air.
I think it should be fine..
Let me know if others have any concerns with this.
Thank you.

Not a problem. When I installed my exhaust system I started the car and then went under it to check for leaks. The QJ system is VERY stable.

I'm the OP of this thread and I still love my QJ system.

Well, my Z has been in the air for a couple months now as we are in winter and it has been raining non stop..
I start the Z every couple of weeks for 20 minutes to get fluids running and up to temp. No issues while it's up on the Quick Jacks!

This has been a really helpful thread - my dad just built a new outbuilding/garage and has been toying around with the idea of getting a hydraulic lift, and a QuickJack is one of the options he's been throwing around. I was able to pass on some of the info you guys have listed.
The portability is a big selling point - he doesn't want to have one of the bays solely dedicated to a lift. As someone who will likely (read: definitely) be mooching the use of it, I also like that it doesn't have crossmembers underneath (from what I can see) so I can use a creeper to access the underside of the car.

Good stuff. Thanks all for the pics and great information.

Yes, you can use a low profile creeper with the QuickJack, as long as you don't have too large of a beer belly!

On this system are you still putting jack stands under it as a back up so you dont get squashed if it fails? Just wondering if there is a fail safe of some sort...

Yes there are safety locks at 2 points

To the OP, how's the unit holding up? Any issues?

Connections leak

Leak from where they are screwed on or quick release. I suppose if the former then redoing the fitting with better teflon tape might help. If it leaks where the two quick release pieces join then a better quality fitting might help. Although for the $$ charged you'd think they come with premium fittings.

My connections have not leaked.
I'm kind of lost where anyone brought up leaking anyway.

The connections are quite good actually.

Leak at the quick connects

Sad to say mine leaks also but not at the quick connects but at the resivor box after just 2 uses :icon14:

Can't read the whole thread but does anybody have an issue with the down function on this jack system. I went to work on the car today, but couldn't install the hose on power unit. It appears like there's residual pressure in power unit and hitting the down button doesn't relieve the pressure. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. :)

Are you sure the residual is in the power unit?
It might be in the hose.
Remember, there’s still fluid in the lines.
I’ve had a few times where I’ve had to push pretty hard, but finally got connected.