Beginner help please

Cmike2780 · 03-27-2013, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Junkman2008

You are EXACTLY correct. The speed of either polisher is not what makes them safe or dangerous. It is the fact that they Flex and Rupes polisher both have direct rotation that CANNOT be bogged down or stopped. That rotation is measured in RPM's, just as a true rotary polisher is. With that in mind, the Flex and the Rupes will remove more clear coat than the PC by design, no matter what technique you use. It is inevitable by the design of both machines.

That's not the case with the PC because of the free floating spindle design. You can completely stop the rotation and thus, the amount of clear coat than can be removed is limited. As you brought up, that's why it takes so long to get any major work done with the PC. Light work on the other hand is a breeze with a solid technique.

That's why I say that both polishers compliment each other by offering you a choice as to how much work you are trying to get accomplished.

Right, the Flex and the Rupes will remove more clear coat than the PC per pass, but all that means is a shorter time polishing. You make it sound like it's impossible to do light work with Flex. The way I see it, it's like driving a 1/4 mile in a Prius vs driving a 1/4 mile in a GT-R....same finish line, half the time.

I'm not even knocking the PC, and like I said it's a great tool for most of what I need. I just don't think owning both would be much of a compliment since there is a 95-100% overlap from an end result point of view.

Junkman2008 · 03-27-2013, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cmike2780

Right, the Flex and the Rupes will remove more clear coat than the PC per pass, but all that means is a shorter time polishing.

Or, you can look at it as removing more clear coat than necessary. Whenever I touch up my paint, all it takes is ONE pass with the PC, a light polish and the white pad. One pass with that combination fixes whatever damage I may find. That same pass with the Flex or the Rupes is going to remove MORE clear coat than the PC will. With the work time being equal, using a more powerful machine not only offers no advantage, it removes more clear coat than necessary. If you are needing the power of something like the Flex to do light work on your paint AFTER you have completely corrected it, then there is something flawed in your paint maintenance process.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cmike2780

You make it sound like it's impossible to do light work with Flex. The way I see it, it's like driving a 1/4 mile in a Prius vs driving a 1/4 mile in a GT-R....same finish line, half the time.

For heavy work, I agree. For light work, the PC is a smarter choice when considering the preservation of your clear coat.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cmike2780

I'm not even knocking the PC, and like I said it's a great tool for most of what I need. I just don't think owning both would be much of a compliment since there is a 95-100% overlap from an end result point of view.

You kinda lost me there but but I think the rule of using the least aggressive method to repair you paint damage when it is not severe is basically the rule of thumb that I always preach. You can always buff more clear off the car but you can't buff it back on.

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