Detailing: Frequently Asked Questions, Useful Facts,Tips-Tricks, How to Articles etc

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How to: Using Zaino in a full detail


So far we all know the basics

Steps
1. Wash
2. Clay
3. Remove swirls with a medium Polish like Menzerna IP (only if necessary)
4. Mild polish with Zaino ZPC Fusion to clean the paint and bring out the gloss
5. Protect the rejuvenated finish with a quality synthetic sealant and/or natural carnuba wax.

For Zaino, steps 1 to 4 will not change. Step 5 will change, and new steps (6, 7, and 8) will need to be added.

If you did not use Zaino ZPC in step 4 then you will need to perform step 5. If you did use ZPC, then you can skip step 5.

Step 5 - Wash with any quality car wash soap to remove the leftover oil/filler/protection from the mild polish used in step 4. You may be wondering why this is necessary if any polish other ZPC is being used prior to Zaino. The reason for this is that most other polishes leave some oil and filler behind on the paint that will shorten the durability of the Z2 or Z5. Last winter I applied Z1 and Z5 directly over top of Klasse AIO. When I finally got around to washing the car in April, my Z5 protection was splotchy. Some areas were repelling water very well, while others were pooling. I attribute this to the AIO. I may have applied it a bit thicker in some areas than others (can never get it perfect). Those thicker areas were likely the pooling areas I witnessed when washing. You may also be wondering why/how Klasse SG can work so well over AIO without a car wash in between. This is because they are both made from the same acrylic and work together. AIO will not inhibit SG’s bonding.

Step 6 – Once the wash and dry is complete, you can proceed to begin the Zaino process. This process should go as follows:

1. Mix 1 ounce of Z2 pro or Z5 (your choice) with 4 to 5 drops of ZFX. ZFX will allow you to apply a maximum of 3 coats of Z2 pro or Z5 all in the same day. Shake very well for 90 seconds. Let the Z2/Z5 and ZFX mixture sit for 5 minutes. Once the 5 minutes has elapsed, shake the bottle again for another 10 seconds. Now you’re ready to apply Z2/Z5. Side note: Do not use more than two ounces of Z2/Z5 and 10 drops of ZFX. Meaning, 3 ounces of Z2/Z5 and 15 drops of ZFX will not work.

2. Place a dime-sized amount of Z2/Z5 on your applicator (I prefer foam applicators covered with short terry strands). Apply the polish in front to back motions on all horizontal panels and top to bottom motions on all vertical panels. If you have trouble spreading the Z2/Z5 evenly, then give your applicator a shot of Z6 QD. Also use the dime sized drop for as many sections as possible before adding another drop of polish. That one-ounce of Z2/Z5 should be enough to do 3 coats on your car. You will end up applying it so thin that you’ll barely see it. Don’t worry; this is how it is supposed to be. A little goes a long way. Let the polish haze for 20 minutes.

3. Once it has hazed, buff it off with any quality MF or cotton towel.

4. QD the car with Z6. This will help remove any Z2/Z5 residue you may have missed. It will also help the next coat of Z2/Z5 to apply easier as well as increase gloss.

Step 7 – Repeat Step 6 two more times.

Step 8 – Finish off by applying 1 coat of Z8 Grand Finale Spray Seal.

See this link for Z8 application instructions:

Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal: Zaino Store

That’s it! You’re done. Enjoy the beautiful shine!!

Some questions you may have:

Q: Should I use Z2 Pro or Z5?
A: Honestly, regardless of car colour, use Z2 Pro. Z2 Pro is the new replacement for the original Z2. It is a new formula and is much improved (if that’s possible) over the old Z2. The only reason I mention Z5 is so people know it is still ok to use if they already have some.

Q: I have some old Z2; can I still use that instead?
A: Yes. ZFX and Z8 will work with the old formula of Z2 equally well.

Q: Do I need to use ZFX? Can I apply Z2/Z5 without it? I don’t want to do multiple coats during my detail.
A: No you don’t have to use ZFX but you must use Z1 instead. Z1 is applied the same way that Z2 Pro and Z5 are applied. Once it hazes, Z2 or Z5 should be applied directly over top (do not buff off the Z1 before applying the Z2/Z5, leave it). Once the Z2/Z5 hazes it can be buffed together with the Z1 underneath. This method will limit you to applying one coat of Z2/Z5 in one 24-hour period.

Q: Do I need to use Z1 every time I want to apply Z2 or Z5?
A: No. Only use Z1 after every ten coats of Z2/Z5 or every 6 months, whichever occurs first. Z1 is meant to facilitate in the bonding of the Z2/Z5 to your bare paint.

Q: If I use ZFX and then want to apply another coat of Z2/Z5, do I need to use ZFX again?
A: If you are only going to apply one coat of Z2/Z5, then you do not need to use ZFX again. Just use Z2/Z5 as-is. However, if you plan on applying multiple coats of Z2/Z5 in one day, then yes, you will need ZFX.

Q: Can I alternate between Z2 and Z5? Are the two products compatible with eachother?
A: Yes you can alternate, and yes they are compatible.

Q: Do I really need to use Z8?
A: No. But it will add to the depth and gloss of your paint.

Q: Do I really need to use Z6 between coats of Z2/Z5?
A: No. Again this is just for the extra touch.

Q: Do I need to use Z7 as my car wash?
A: No. Any quality car wash will do. But you will be hard pressed to find a car wash better than Z7.

Q: If I just want bare bones Zaino, what should I get?
A: ZFX or Z1 and Z2 Pro or Z5. That’s it!

Q: Do I need to add a carnuba wax on top of my Zaino layers?
A: No. Carnuba should only be used if you want to alter the look of your Zaino. I personally would advise against topping your Zaino with carnuba. Doing this will negate three of Zaino's four biggest benefits. Those being the slickness, shine, and layerability, with the fourth being durability. Zaino is a product that looks great on its own. I love the look of Z5 on my car.

Source: Detailing 101: Common Question and Answers, What and Where to buy stuff + Technique - BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum - E90Post.com

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What You Should Know About Interior Detailing

While a great deal of emphasis is placed on paint finishing in detailing, little information is disseminated about what is needed to properly clean vehicle interiors. This article is an attempt to provide detailers with an entire process for interior detailing including: interior materials, detail chemicals, detail equipment and tools.

When a detailer attempts to clean the interior of a vehicle, he must know all of the different materials involved. each material will require different cleaning procedures. This means the detailer must have a full understanding of all these various materials and what the problems might be and how to solve them. The materials are: fabric or vinyl (headliners); fabric, vinyl or plastic (trim); vinyl (dashboards); vinyl, plastic and clear plastic covers (panels); nylon (carpets); and vinyl-protected leather, fabric or vinyl (seats) I will not address the particulars of each of these materials, but as a detailer you must have a complete knowledge of what they are, the problems you can encounter and the knowledge to correct the problems.


Interior chemicals
Professional detailers should only use chemicals that are formulated to clean a particular interior material. Carpet shampoo should be used for carpets, leather cleaner for leather, glass cleaner for windows, etc. Too many detailers and chemical suppliers encourage the use of chemicals formulated for other purposes as interior chemicals. This can have harmful effects on the material. For example, a typical practice of many detailers, encouraged by misguided and unprofessional chemical suppliers, is to use an engine degreaser for interior cleaning on carpets, vinyl and leather. Will it clean? Yes, this chemical will clean, but the difference is that the materials in an engine (metal, rubber, etc.) are much different than more delicate interior materials. It would be like washing your car with dishwashing detergent or taking a bath in laundry detergent.

An engine degreaser has a pH of 12 to 14, due to the inclusion of caustics, like sodium hydroxide, which can destroy carpet and upholstery fibers and damage leather very easily. even the use of a less-aggressive, all-purpose cleaner on carpets is not a good practice because they lack the brighteners and softeners that are formulated into the carpet shampoo for obvious reasons.

The list of chemicals a detailer should use for interior cleaning includes: carpet and upholstery shampoo; vinyl cleaners; leather cleaners; low pH all-purpose cleaners; stain removers (protein, grease, red dye, coffee/tea, rust and pet stains); glass cleaner (ready-to-use or concentrated); leather conditioners; protectants; water-based silicone dressings; biological odor eliminators; fragrances; equipment and tools.

Many detailers cannot afford all the equipment and tools listed below, but they are listed so you know what a professional detailer should have in his arsenal to do the work correctly. These items are: air compressor with blow guns (an essential); wet/dry vacuum; heated soil extractor (absolutely essential); vapor steamer (not essential, but very useful for cleaning hard surfaces and removing stains); ozone generator (not essential, but does wonders in removing odors and mold spores from air-conditioning systems); air or electric rotary shampoo tool; nylon scrub brushes; small detail brushes; Scrubbie pads (a Teflon-net-covered sponge for scrubbing vinyl, leather and plastic surfaces); applicator pads (for dressing and leather conditioners); and towels (different colors for cleaning chemicals and windows).


The process
With a working knowledge of all the materials and problems you can encounter in detailing the interior and a knowledge of the chemicals, equipment, tools and supplies needed to do the job, the next thing you need is a process that allows you and your employees to get the job done correctly and quickly without sacrificing quality.
The following procedures are intended to give you a step-by-step process to completely detail the interior of a vehicle. They are not intended to teach anyone how to detail, but simply to show you what steps to follow to avoid missing anything and wasting time and motion.

Interior cleaning procedures:
1. read a job service order for instructions on specific thing to do.
2. open doors and evaluate condition of interior.
3. remove floor mats (front and back and give to person cleaning trunk or clean/ shampoo immediately and place near the rear of the vehicle to dry).
4. Push front seat all the way back
5. use loose-items bag for loose items (front and back), use a separate bag for glove box and one for console. Set bags on rear seat.
6. remove ashtrays (front and back). Clean and dry them. before replacing, clean area around ashtray.
7. Flip down sun visors.
8. With the air blower, blow out the entire interior (front and back), concentrating on dash, panel, vents, under the seats and cracks and crevices in seats.
9. Vacuum the entire interior—carpets, seats, panels, etc.
10. Apply appropriate stain removers (front and back) to all heavy stains on carpets, seats, door panels, etc.

Cleaning steps:
11. Start on the driver’s side and clean headliner, front half.
12. Clean sun visors, visor mirror and rearview mirror.
13. Clean trim around doors and front window.
14. Clean/scrub dashboard.
15. Clean panel and steering column and glove box.
16. Scrub spots/stains on front carpets
17. Apply shampoo and friction-shampoo carpets (if necessary).
18. using extractor, extract all shampoo and dirt residue

Fabric seats:
19. remove spots/stains on fabric seats.
20. Apply shampoo and friction-shampoo seats (if necessary).
21. using extractor, extract all shampoo and dirt residue.
22. using Scrubbie, clean/scrub center console.

Vinyl/leather seats:
23. Scrub vinyl/leather upholstery with Scrubbie or rotary shampooer and wipe dry.
24. using Scrubbie clean/scrub center console.
25. Clean/shampoo front seat belts.
26. Push the front seat all the way forward.
27. Scrub spots/stains on front door panels.
28. Clean/shampoo door panels using either a Scrubbie, nylon scrub brush or rotary shampooer. Wipe dry and/or extract residue.
29. Spray door jamb and door edges with all-purpose cleaner and wipe dry.

Rear:
30. Place loose-items bag on front seat.
31. Clean the headliner, back half from front to rear.
32. Clean rear window deck (be sure to blow out dirt near window).

Fabric seats:
See steps 19 through 22

Vinyl/leather seats:
See steps 23 to 27
33. Clean/shampoo back of front seat following procedures for either fabric or vinyl/leather upholstery.
34. remove spots/stains on rear carpets.
35. Apply shampoo and friction-shampoo carpets (if necessary).
36. using extractor, extract all shampoo and dirt residue.
37. Scrub spots/stains on rear door panels.
38. Clean/shampoo rear door panels using either Scrubbie, nylon scrub brush or rotary shampooer. Wipe dry and/or extract residue.
39. Spray door jamb and door edges with all-purpose cleaner (as needed) and wipe dry.

Dressing/conditioning procedure:
40. Start on the driver’s side and move front to back, dressing all vinyl, leather and rubber in the interior. Wipe off with dry towel for satin finish.

Window-cleaning procedure:
41. Spray all interior windows and mirrors with glass cleaner.
42. using window towel, clean each window individually and dry.
43. Put all windows down and clean top edge, put up again.

Final inspection procedure:
44. make complete check of interior, looking for dirt on carpets, improper application of dressing, dirty/smeared windows and correct.
45. Do a final vacuum (if necessary).
46. Spray deodorizer under front seats.
47. Put in plastic floor mat, seat cover, litter bag.
48. Put in window sticker reminder (if used).
Keep in mind that this is my approach to interior cleaning. It is not the only approach and may not be the best, but it is a proven methodology that you might want to use that saves wasted motion and ensures everything is completed properly the first time.[/QUOTE]

Source: What You Should Know About Interior Detailing - Autopia.org

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