Detailing: Frequently Asked Questions, Useful Facts,Tips-Tricks, How to Articles etc

AK370Z · 05-10-2010, 08:42 AM

Washing and Drying - Facts and Tips

• Use as little pressure as possible with your wash medium

• Allow the shampoo to do most of the cleaning, not your force

• Using a foam gun to pre-soak your vehicle can help minimize adding imperfections

• It's always best practice to wash and dry in the shade, out of direct sunlight

• Always use two wash buckets, one with shampoo and water, and one with rinse water

• Using a Grit Guard insert helps release contamination from your wash mitt

• Use a separate wash media for your wheels and tires, heavy contaminated areas, and lightly contaminated areas

• Pre-treat heavily contaminated areas of your vehicle with a degreaser

• Rinse your wash media as frequently as possible (every panel or so)

• The more contaminated your vehicle is, the more often you should rinse your mitt or sponge

• It's good practice to wash weekly or every two weeks

• Using a shut off valve allows you to quickly remove a hose nozzle without getting wet or running to the water source

• You can use a second Grit Guard insert in your bucket with shampoo and water

• Some shampoos can be used to strip off previous coats of protection when used in high concentration

• Using a Grit Guard insert helps trap contamination on the bottom of the bucket

• Utilize the sheeting method to remove most of the water from your vehicle

• A waffle weave drying towel is the safest product to use to dry your vehicle

• Instead of wiping with your drying towel, blot the paint to minimize adding imperfections

• Using a blower can help remove water between panels, mirrors, gaps, lug nuts and other hard to reach areas

• Optimum No Rinse is an excellent wash option for people without access to a hose

AK370Z · 05-10-2010, 08:42 AM

Polishing - facts and Tips:

• The smaller the section you work in, the better your results will be

• Do not rush the polishing process, it is very time consuming but the results are worth it

• When using a random orbital or dual action buffer, apply roughly 15 ~ 20 lbs of pressure

• Always match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad

• Swap out your pad for a fresh one every couple of panels for maximum results

• Keep a bucket of water and Snappy Clean solution by your side to soak your pads as soon as you are done

• Using the proper lighting when polishing is important to assess your results accurately

• Smaller pads offer you more control and can get in tighter areas

• Larger pads can spread products quickly, which is great when applying a sealant

• Rotary buffers should be used by experienced detailers and professionals

• Tape off your trim, glass, and any other area you do not want polish to potentially damage

• Use 3 pea sized drops of polish per working area, many detailers use too much product

Clay Bar Facts and Tips:

• If you drop a piece of clay, throw it away!

• Working in small areas helps make sure your clay lube will not dry up too fast

• Do not use too much pressure when gliding a clay bar across the lubricated surface

• Using a quick detailer that leaves behind a slick surface is often good as a clay bar lubricant

• For most vehicles, we recommend using a fine grade clay bar

• A medium grade clay bar will almost always leave behind some marring that needs to be polished to remove

• Optimum No Rinse mixed with water is a common clay bar lubricant amongst professionals

• You can often tell if there is contamination still on the surface by listening closely as your clay

• Avoid using a clay bar in direct sun light so that your clay lube does not dry up quickly

• Cutting your clay bar into small pieces helps preserve your clay in the event you drop a piece

• Always try to reshape your clay to expose a fresh, clean piece of clay

• When storing your clay bar, mist some of your clay lube in the bag or container to keep is soft and flexible

• It's good practice to re-wash your vehicle after using a clay bar to remove any loosened contamination and to remove excess clay bar residue

• Clay not only works well on your paint, but also your glass, wheels, plastics and other surfaces

AK370Z · 05-10-2010, 08:42 AM

Glazes - Facts and Tips:

• Glazes can help increase the depth and gloss in the paint

• The filling of light imperfections is only temporary and will return over time

• Do not expect a glaze to fill in too many imperfections, only the slightest imperfection can be masked

• If you are using a glaze that utilizes mostly oil based fillers, then top it with a wax since a sealant will not bond properly to it

• Glazes typically cannot be layered, so only one coat is necessary for maximum results

Sealants - Facts and Tips:

• In general, sealants last somewhere between 3 to 6 months

• When applying a sealant, it's best to spread it as thin as possible

• In general, you should give each coat of sealant at least 24 hours to cure and bond to the paint

• Some sealants can be layered to increase the depth and gloss as well as protection

• Sealants can be topped with a wax to get the best of both worlds in terms of looks and durability

• In general, all in one products with protection will last less than a pure sealant

Carnauba waxes - Facts and Tips:

• Carnauba waxes typically last between 3 to 8 weeks

• Apply your wax as thin as possible, only a microscopic layer of wax actually sits on your paint, excess wax is just wasted

• In general you should give each coat of wax 12 to 24 hours cure time

• It is best to work in the shade when applying and removing a wax

• Most waxes can benefit from 2 to 3 layers for maximum depth and gloss

• When your paint stops beading water, it is time to reapply a coat of wax

AK370Z · 05-10-2010, 08:43 AM

Microfiber - Facts and Tips:

• Always remove any tags on microfiber products to minimize the risk of marring the paint

• Always wash new microfiber towels prior to using them for the first time

• Never use fabric softener when washing or drying your towels

• Group your towels together, such as paint safe towels, wheel and tire towels, interior towels, etc.

• Adding distilled white vinegar to your rinse cycle can help further clean your microfiber

• If your towels lose their absorbency, try boiling them to dissolve product and reopen the pores

• Store your clean microfiber towels in labeled Ziploc bags

• Wash around 25 to 30 towels per load

• Always wash your microfiber with microfiber, avoid mixing them with other fabrics

Wheel and Tire Care - Facts and Tips:

• Silicone based tire dressings have a higher tendency to sling up onto your paint

• Water based tire dressings get absorbed into your tires and nourish your rubber

• Properly prepping your tires prior to applying a dressing can increase durability and prevent tire dressing sling

• Always apply your tire dressing in thin, even coats

• Drive your vehicle a few feet forward after applying the first coat of dressing so you can get an even application on the part of the tire that was closest to the ground

Exterior Trim Care - Facts and Tips:
• Having properly cleaned and dressed trim creates more contrast with your paint

• For best results, degrease your trim prior to applying a dressing

• Make sure you are using a dressing that provides UV protection to prevent fading

• Using a brush can help provide a deeper clean to your trim pieces

• Old wax build up can be removed with a degreaser, isopropyl alcohol or even peanut butter

Glass Care - Facts and Tips:

• Use as little glass cleaner as possible to minimize streaking

• Never use ammonia based glass cleaners on tinted windows

• Use multiple towels to clean your glass, this will help reduce streaking

• Always clean your glass when it is cool to the touch and out of direct sunlight

• Protect your exterior glass to make maintaining your glass easier and to improve visibility during poor weather conditions

• Using a glass polish or distilled white vinegar can help remove water spots on glass

Source: Auto Detailing Guide - Detailed Image

AK370Z · 05-10-2010, 08:43 AM

How to: Properly Wash your Car

First some basic rules:

1. You should always wash your car out of direct sunlight. I usually wash my car in the evening once the sun starts to set giving me enough shade on my driveway. This will help to avoid water spots.

2. Don't ever wash your car immediately after driving it. Two reasons for this;
-Your rotors are still hot. Spraying cold water on them will cause them to warp
-Your hood will also be warm making it more susceptible to nasty hard water spots

Washing:

1. Use a nozzle gun that will allow you to control the intensity of the water you are spraying onto your vehicle.

2. Always start with your rims, rubber, and wheel wells. Start with the two front wheels since they are the dirtiest. Fill up one bucket with car wash soap. Spray the rim, rubber, and well with water. Mist the rim lightly. Use full force on the rubber, and well. Dip a sponge in the soap. Start by cleaning the rim. When complete, mist off the soap. Spray water on the sponge at full force to clean the gunk from the rim off of it. Wring out the water when complete. Dip the sponge back in the soap, and clean the well. Spray the soap off when complete. Clean the sponge with water, wring it out and place it back in the bucket. Clean your rubber by using a tire brush. Try scooping only the suds from the top of the bucket onto the bristles. Work the suds into the sidewall until you are satisfied they are clean. Use full pressure water to clean the soap off. Use the full pressure from the nozzle to clean the brush. Place it back in the bucket. Repeat this process for the next 3.

3. When finished step 2, clean the sponge and brush as outlined in step 2. Dump the soap from the bucket and rinse the bucket out with clean water.

4. Fill up the now clean bucket from step 3 and another clean bucket with car wash soap. I usually put 4 or 5 cap fulls of soap in my bucket. It allows my to fill up the bucket with more water half way through my wash, and still maintain good suds. Put two different dedicated 100% chenille wash mitts into each bucket. Do not re-use the sponge from step two on your paint! One bucket/mitt will be used to clean all horizontal surfaces and all vertical surfaces above the middle of the door. The other bucket/mitt will be used to clean all areas of the car below the middle of the door. Why am I doing this you ask? Well, the areas below the door tend to be dirtier, thus you wouldn’t want to use the same mitt on the horizontal areas as it will most likely cause swirls. I use two buckets because it allows me to keep my wash water cleaner during the process. Using one bucket will guarantee dirty water and in turn create swirls.

5. Start by washing the highest part of your car and working your way down.

You should mist the roof and front and rear windows with water. Dip your sponge for your top part of the car into its bucket. Gently glide the mitt over the paint. Try not to apply pressure. The weight of your arm should be enough. Go in a front to back motion, NOT circular. I can't stress this enough. Why? Well, if you get grit trapped in your mitt, it will create swirls in your paint. Front to back swirls are much harder to see than circular, minimizing the damage. Do half the roof. Flip your mitt over and do the other half of the roof. Then use the remaining soap on the mitt to clean the front and rear windows. Rinse the roof and windows with misting water. Rinse the mitt by spraying both sides with full force.

Wring the water out, dip it in the bucket and begin cleaning the hood. Do half the hood with one side of the sponge, the other half with the other side. Rinse the hood with misting water. Clean the mitt and wring it out. Put it back in its dedicated bucket.

Take the bottom mitt and begin cleaning the front grill, headlights and front bumper, fogs, etc. Rinse the area with water. Rinse the mitt and place it back in its bucket.

Move onto the trunk. Take the sponge for the top and clean the trunk lid. Flip it over and clean the back of the trunk above the bumper. Rinse the areas and rinse the mitt.

Take the bottom mitt and clean the area below the bumper. Rinse the area and rinse the mitt.

Take the sponge for the top and clean the rear quarter panel, flip the mitt over and clean the rear door (if you have a sedan) above the molding. Take the remaining soap and clean the frame above the window and the window itself. Rinse the door and quarter panel, window and the mitt.

Do the same thing for front fender and front door. Rinse the area and mitt. Do the opposite side in the same manner.

Take the mitt for the bottom part and clean the front door below the molding. Flip the mitt over and clean the rear door. Use the remaining soap to clean the rocker panel. Rinse the area and the mitt.

Do the opposite side in the same manner.

Your car is now complete!

Just some general notes:

Always mist the area with water before washing it with the mitt.

Always mist the paint when washing the soap off. Directing a high-pressure spray is not good for the clear coat.

Always go in front to back motions with the mitt.

Always glide the mitt over the area.

Always rinse the mitt with a full spray before dipping it back into the buckets. This will ensure the mitt and wash water stays clean

How to: Properly Dry your Car

Once you have completed washing your car you should remove the nozzle from the hose. Turn the water on and let it fall on the horizontal surfaces starting from the roof, and working down to the trunk and hood. This will sheet most of the water off the paint. Once the water has finished sheeting, take a quality cotton or MF towel and blot the remaining water off your paint. Try not to rub. Rubbing is the enemy, even on clean paint. It is still possible to create micro scratches while drying if rubbing.

Use separate towels to dry the rims, paint, glass, and door jambs. If you dry immediately after you wash then you should not get any water spots on your windows, eliminating the need to use ammonia based window cleaners.

AK370Z · 05-10-2010, 08:44 AM

How to: Properly Clay your Car

Make sure you have thoroughly washed and dried your car prior to claying.

Cut the clay bar in half. Take the half and cut it into 15 equal pieces:

2 for the hood
2 for the roof
1 for the trunk lid
1 for the trunk rear and rear bumper
2 for the rear quarter panels (1 per side)
4 for the doors (1 per door)(if you have a sedan)
2 for the front fenders (1 per side)
1 for the front of the car

Take the piece and roll it in to a sphere. Take the sphere and flatten it out into a circle so that it covers the top third of your first two fingers. Spray the first section of the roof with quick detailer. Glide the clay across the area in a front to back motion applying some pressure. Work in 2x2 areas. If you feel your fingers going through the clay, then you are pushing too hard. If the clay is streaking on the paint, then you need more QD. While gliding, you should hear a slight noise and feel some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the QD off with a quality towel. Move onto the next 2x2 section and do the same thing. Once half the section is done, flip the clay over and do the other half of the section. Once the section has been completed throw the piece of clay away. It is too contaminated to use on another section. If you do use it, you will most likely put micro scratches in your clear.

Keep working your way down using each dedicated piece for its area. Flip the clay over when you have completed half a section. Throw the clay away when the section is done.

When complete your car should be as smooth as glass. The next steps should be to remove the swirls (if necessary), remove any hazing from polishing/bring out the full gloss, and seal in the rejuvenated finish with a wax or sealant.

More info posted by a forum member:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexus

I've decided to post some of my tutorials here until a detailing section is created. Enjoy.

Introduction

I've recently received a few questions through PMs about clay bars. When should I clay bar my car? What's the right technique? How do I get those ugly swirl marks out of my paint? I've thus decided to slap together a comprehensive tutorial that explains how to restore your car's paint after a harsh winter or years of neglect. Older cars require more attention when it comes to restoring the paint, so if you've let yourself go for the last three or four years, this tutorial is the one for you.

Q: What are clay bars?

A: The clay bar is by no means a recent innovation. It has been around for a good while but has just recently been adapted to residential/amateur use; clay bars were, for a long time, limited to detailing shops and the likes.

It is important to understand that a car will spend nearly all its life outside, exposed to the elements, and be subjected to countless contaminants such as acid rains, dust, tar &c. These contaminants end up seeping deep into your paint and are impossible to remove by simply washing the car, even with the best soaps available on the market (while still remaining safe for your paint). With time, these contaminants will end up severely damaging your paint, rendering it vulnerable to iron deposits which can, with time, oxidize and spread throughout your vehicle like wildfire. A car that is contaminated will be vulnerable to this, even with the best of waxes.

The clay bar is by all means not a fix-all. There are some defects and swirls that only a compound will take out.

Q: How much do they cost and how long do they last?

A: A clay bar kit will cost you anywhere between $20 to $50 and will be good for four to five uses on the entire surface of your car. Seeing as it is recommended to clay bar your car at least once a year, at the end of winter, the bar should last you anywhere between four to five years. It's a good investment, to say the least.

Q:How do I know it's time to clay bar my car?

A: Several methods can be used to test your paint in order to determine if it's time to use a clay bar. The simplest one, I find, is to grab a plastic sandwich bag of the Ziploc variety (or any household brand, really), insert your hand into it and rub gently on the surface of your car. If the paint feels like sand paper on your plastic-covered fingertips, it's time to use a clay bar.

Q: How do I use a clay bar?

A: A clay bar treatment can be done following these seven tips, in combination with the instructions provided with the product.

1. Being the treatment by washing your car thoroughly. I recommend doing it twice to remove a maximum amount of contaminant sticking to the surface of your paint. This will make the job easier and less time-consuming, as well as preserve the life of your clay bar. If you clay bar a dirty car, you may harm the paint, so make sure you give her a thorough wash before you even think about rubbing her with a piece of clay.

2. Once washed and dried, take the clay bar and knead it with your fingertips until it is supple. Moisten the surface you are working on with detailing spray which comes with the clay bar; it will act as a lubricant. Working in small areas, one panel at a time, rub the bar lightly from left to right, up and down, following the lines of your car. Follow the separations between panels, never passing between the gaps with the bar. Never use a circular motion and make sure the area is properly lubricated at all times. Wipe down the section with a microfiber towel once you're done and move on to another panel.

3. Knead the bar every now and then, especially when you notice that it is getting dirty. The clay bar will pull out a lot of contaminants from your paint and failing to knead it may redeposit these contaminants.

4. You may use the clay bar on glass and plastic. Always make sure the surface is properly lubricated. If you run out of the detailing spray provided with the product, you may use soapy water.

5. Once you're done test the surface with the Ziploc bag again. The paint should be smooth beneath your fingertips. It is ready to receive a polish or a wax.

6. In order to keep the clay bar in working order, knead it and place it in a Ziploc bag, removing the air from it. Keep away from heat sources. You may also keep the clay bar in a small plastic container with water.

7. Your paint will not have any protection whatsoever once you're done with your clay bar treatment; make sure you apply a fresh coat of wax, applying a polish beforehand if so desired.

Conclusion

Doing a clay bar treatment should restore your paint to its factory finish. Coupled with a good polish and wax the clay bar will remove swirl marks, angel-hairs and cover up minor chips and scratches. For the most tenacious varieties of these defects, look into applying some Meguiars' ScratchX to the affected parts after your clay bar, before applying your coat of wax.

For severely neglected or damaged cars, however, a good old compound is in order although I recommend having that done by a professional.

Hope this helps. If there are any other questions, do not hesitate to ask.

AK370Z · 05-10-2010, 08:44 AM

How to: Wash your car in the winter

I know many of the detailing pros in the forum may disagree with the content in this article. Winter washing can be a very tricky subject. My main objective when washing in the winter is to keep the salt and other dirt off of my car, and ensure that it stays swirl free. I’m not necessarily looking for the perfect shine.

I’ve come to accept the reality that my car will not stay clean for more than one day in the winter. No sooner do I wash it, it starts snowing, and the salt trucks are out in full force not long after that. With that said, I decided that it wasn’t worth it for me to freeze my pants off attempting to hand wash my car in my garage with warm water. The effort always seemed wasted. I needed to find a way to get the dirt off without damaging my finish in any way. Thankfully, I found it.

Imho, the most effective and painless way I have found to wash my car in the winter is to go through a touchless automatic car wash found at my local gas station. Touchless washes have many advantages:

- They don’t use any brushes whatsoever. No contact is made with your paint.
- They use recycled water. Many believe this is a bad thing. I don’t think it is. Recycled water tends to be softer, thus reducing the potential for hard water spots. Most reputable places will filter the reused water ensuring it is clean prior to reuse on your car.
- Many automatic car washes will also wash the underbody of your car, another area where salt can stick and cause damage.
- The water pressure is not directed at a concentrated area of your car, rather it is dispersed evenly everywhere with the express purpose of cleaning the finish safely.

The biggest key to avoiding swirls from a touchless wash is NOT TO DRY THE CAR AFTER YOU EXIT THE WASH!!!. Let the car dry on its own. Why you ask? Well, as good as touchless washes are, they will never replace a good home hand wash. There will still be a very thin film of dirt present on your paint. Guess what happens if you rub a towel on your paint with dirt on it? That’s right, nasty swirl marks will appear. Not a good thing. As mentioned before, there is no need to worry about water spots, because the water is recycled.

What I would recommend is wiping off your door-jambs and door sills, as water may find its way in there.

Many people advocate visiting a coin operated hand wash place. My question is why?? It’s really no different than hand washing at home. And I’ve already told you why I don’t like that. I also don’t like the high pressure of the spray nozzle. You could potentially push dirt into your clear coat.

I’m also not a fan of the quick detail in between washing, or worse yet, as a replacement for washing. No amount of qd can replace the thick suds of good car wash soap. No qd can lubricate and safely lift winter dirt and salt off your car safely. I guarantee you will create swirls using this method. Remember, friction is the enemy. The less you touch your car, the less micro marring you put in the clear coat. This goes not only for winter washing and drying, but also for year round washing and drying.

Many people have also expressed concern about the aggressiveness of the soap used at touchless washes. Will it dull my paint? Will it strip my wax or sealant? The answers are no, and no. I’ve been taking my cars thru touchless washes for the last few years and have encountered no problems to date. My klasse sealant glaze always sheets water the first time I hand wash my car in the spring. This tells me that there is still SG left on my paint. The fact that there is still a thin film of dirt present on my paint after existing the wash is another indicator that the soap is not as aggressive as believed.

It’s also very important to clay and use a paint cleaner on your paint during your big spring detail. Performing these two steps are the best ways to rejuvenate your finish after a harsh northern winter.

I can vouch for this method 100%. I have not had any issues with it. In my opinion it is the very best and most practical way to care for your car in the winter.

05-10-2010, 08:42 AM	#1 (permalink)
AK370Z Administrator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NJ Posts: 9,930 Drives: 09 370Z MB Sports M6 Rep Power: 10	Washing and Drying - Facts and Tips • Use as little pressure as possible with your wash medium • Allow the shampoo to do most of the cleaning, not your force • Using a foam gun to pre-soak your vehicle can help minimize adding imperfections • It's always best practice to wash and dry in the shade, out of direct sunlight • Always use two wash buckets, one with shampoo and water, and one with rinse water • Using a Grit Guard insert helps release contamination from your wash mitt • Use a separate wash media for your wheels and tires, heavy contaminated areas, and lightly contaminated areas • Pre-treat heavily contaminated areas of your vehicle with a degreaser • Rinse your wash media as frequently as possible (every panel or so) • The more contaminated your vehicle is, the more often you should rinse your mitt or sponge • It's good practice to wash weekly or every two weeks • Using a shut off valve allows you to quickly remove a hose nozzle without getting wet or running to the water source • You can use a second Grit Guard insert in your bucket with shampoo and water • Some shampoos can be used to strip off previous coats of protection when used in high concentration • Using a Grit Guard insert helps trap contamination on the bottom of the bucket • Utilize the sheeting method to remove most of the water from your vehicle • A waffle weave drying towel is the safest product to use to dry your vehicle • Instead of wiping with your drying towel, blot the paint to minimize adding imperfections • Using a blower can help remove water between panels, mirrors, gaps, lug nuts and other hard to reach areas • Optimum No Rinse is an excellent wash option for people without access to a hose njustidokite, BeemaaZ, Indiana102 and 1 others like this. __________________ The370Z Signature Pictures ll Want to rock our forum decals on your car? Then click here! ll How to Embed YouTube Videos In a Post STOP! (Hammertime) ll Become a Premium Member Click HERE ll F.A.Q. Are You a Nissan Dealer? Click Here to Become A "Supporting Dealer" and Start Listing Your 370Zs In Our Inventory Section My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3 Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.

05-10-2010, 08:42 AM	#2 (permalink)
AK370Z Administrator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NJ Posts: 9,930 Drives: 09 370Z MB Sports M6 Rep Power: 10	Polishing - facts and Tips: • The smaller the section you work in, the better your results will be • Do not rush the polishing process, it is very time consuming but the results are worth it • When using a random orbital or dual action buffer, apply roughly 15 ~ 20 lbs of pressure • Always match the aggressiveness of the product with the aggressiveness of the pad • Swap out your pad for a fresh one every couple of panels for maximum results • Keep a bucket of water and Snappy Clean solution by your side to soak your pads as soon as you are done • Using the proper lighting when polishing is important to assess your results accurately • Smaller pads offer you more control and can get in tighter areas • Larger pads can spread products quickly, which is great when applying a sealant • Rotary buffers should be used by experienced detailers and professionals • Tape off your trim, glass, and any other area you do not want polish to potentially damage • Use 3 pea sized drops of polish per working area, many detailers use too much product Clay Bar Facts and Tips: • If you drop a piece of clay, throw it away! • Working in small areas helps make sure your clay lube will not dry up too fast • Do not use too much pressure when gliding a clay bar across the lubricated surface • Using a quick detailer that leaves behind a slick surface is often good as a clay bar lubricant • For most vehicles, we recommend using a fine grade clay bar • A medium grade clay bar will almost always leave behind some marring that needs to be polished to remove • Optimum No Rinse mixed with water is a common clay bar lubricant amongst professionals • You can often tell if there is contamination still on the surface by listening closely as your clay • Avoid using a clay bar in direct sun light so that your clay lube does not dry up quickly • Cutting your clay bar into small pieces helps preserve your clay in the event you drop a piece • Always try to reshape your clay to expose a fresh, clean piece of clay • When storing your clay bar, mist some of your clay lube in the bag or container to keep is soft and flexible • It's good practice to re-wash your vehicle after using a clay bar to remove any loosened contamination and to remove excess clay bar residue • Clay not only works well on your paint, but also your glass, wheels, plastics and other surfaces njustidokite, BeemaaZ, Indiana102 and 1 others like this. __________________ The370Z Signature Pictures ll Want to rock our forum decals on your car? Then click here! ll How to Embed YouTube Videos In a Post STOP! (Hammertime) ll Become a Premium Member Click HERE ll F.A.Q. Are You a Nissan Dealer? Click Here to Become A "Supporting Dealer" and Start Listing Your 370Zs In Our Inventory Section My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3 Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.

05-10-2010, 08:42 AM	#3 (permalink)
AK370Z Administrator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NJ Posts: 9,930 Drives: 09 370Z MB Sports M6 Rep Power: 10	Glazes - Facts and Tips: • Glazes can help increase the depth and gloss in the paint • The filling of light imperfections is only temporary and will return over time • Do not expect a glaze to fill in too many imperfections, only the slightest imperfection can be masked • If you are using a glaze that utilizes mostly oil based fillers, then top it with a wax since a sealant will not bond properly to it • Glazes typically cannot be layered, so only one coat is necessary for maximum results Sealants - Facts and Tips: • In general, sealants last somewhere between 3 to 6 months • When applying a sealant, it's best to spread it as thin as possible • In general, you should give each coat of sealant at least 24 hours to cure and bond to the paint • Some sealants can be layered to increase the depth and gloss as well as protection • Sealants can be topped with a wax to get the best of both worlds in terms of looks and durability • In general, all in one products with protection will last less than a pure sealant Carnauba waxes - Facts and Tips: • Carnauba waxes typically last between 3 to 8 weeks • Apply your wax as thin as possible, only a microscopic layer of wax actually sits on your paint, excess wax is just wasted • In general you should give each coat of wax 12 to 24 hours cure time • It is best to work in the shade when applying and removing a wax • Most waxes can benefit from 2 to 3 layers for maximum depth and gloss • When your paint stops beading water, it is time to reapply a coat of wax njustidokite, BeemaaZ, Indiana102 and 1 others like this. __________________ The370Z Signature Pictures ll Want to rock our forum decals on your car? Then click here! ll How to Embed YouTube Videos In a Post STOP! (Hammertime) ll Become a Premium Member Click HERE ll F.A.Q. Are You a Nissan Dealer? Click Here to Become A "Supporting Dealer" and Start Listing Your 370Zs In Our Inventory Section My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3 Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.

05-10-2010, 08:43 AM	#4 (permalink)
AK370Z Administrator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NJ Posts: 9,930 Drives: 09 370Z MB Sports M6 Rep Power: 10	Microfiber - Facts and Tips: • Always remove any tags on microfiber products to minimize the risk of marring the paint • Always wash new microfiber towels prior to using them for the first time • Never use fabric softener when washing or drying your towels • Group your towels together, such as paint safe towels, wheel and tire towels, interior towels, etc. • Adding distilled white vinegar to your rinse cycle can help further clean your microfiber • If your towels lose their absorbency, try boiling them to dissolve product and reopen the pores • Store your clean microfiber towels in labeled Ziploc bags • Wash around 25 to 30 towels per load • Always wash your microfiber with microfiber, avoid mixing them with other fabrics Wheel and Tire Care - Facts and Tips: • Silicone based tire dressings have a higher tendency to sling up onto your paint • Water based tire dressings get absorbed into your tires and nourish your rubber • Properly prepping your tires prior to applying a dressing can increase durability and prevent tire dressing sling • Always apply your tire dressing in thin, even coats • Drive your vehicle a few feet forward after applying the first coat of dressing so you can get an even application on the part of the tire that was closest to the ground Exterior Trim Care - Facts and Tips: • Having properly cleaned and dressed trim creates more contrast with your paint • For best results, degrease your trim prior to applying a dressing • Make sure you are using a dressing that provides UV protection to prevent fading • Using a brush can help provide a deeper clean to your trim pieces • Old wax build up can be removed with a degreaser, isopropyl alcohol or even peanut butter Glass Care - Facts and Tips: • Use as little glass cleaner as possible to minimize streaking • Never use ammonia based glass cleaners on tinted windows • Use multiple towels to clean your glass, this will help reduce streaking • Always clean your glass when it is cool to the touch and out of direct sunlight • Protect your exterior glass to make maintaining your glass easier and to improve visibility during poor weather conditions • Using a glass polish or distilled white vinegar can help remove water spots on glass Source: Auto Detailing Guide - Detailed Image njustidokite, BeemaaZ, Indiana102 and 1 others like this. __________________ The370Z Signature Pictures ll Want to rock our forum decals on your car? Then click here! ll How to Embed YouTube Videos In a Post STOP! (Hammertime) ll Become a Premium Member Click HERE ll F.A.Q. Are You a Nissan Dealer? Click Here to Become A "Supporting Dealer" and Start Listing Your 370Zs In Our Inventory Section My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3 Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.

05-10-2010, 08:43 AM	#5 (permalink)
AK370Z Administrator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NJ Posts: 9,930 Drives: 09 370Z MB Sports M6 Rep Power: 10	How to: Properly Wash your Car First some basic rules: 1. You should always wash your car out of direct sunlight. I usually wash my car in the evening once the sun starts to set giving me enough shade on my driveway. This will help to avoid water spots. 2. Don't ever wash your car immediately after driving it. Two reasons for this; -Your rotors are still hot. Spraying cold water on them will cause them to warp -Your hood will also be warm making it more susceptible to nasty hard water spots Washing: 1. Use a nozzle gun that will allow you to control the intensity of the water you are spraying onto your vehicle. 2. Always start with your rims, rubber, and wheel wells. Start with the two front wheels since they are the dirtiest. Fill up one bucket with car wash soap. Spray the rim, rubber, and well with water. Mist the rim lightly. Use full force on the rubber, and well. Dip a sponge in the soap. Start by cleaning the rim. When complete, mist off the soap. Spray water on the sponge at full force to clean the gunk from the rim off of it. Wring out the water when complete. Dip the sponge back in the soap, and clean the well. Spray the soap off when complete. Clean the sponge with water, wring it out and place it back in the bucket. Clean your rubber by using a tire brush. Try scooping only the suds from the top of the bucket onto the bristles. Work the suds into the sidewall until you are satisfied they are clean. Use full pressure water to clean the soap off. Use the full pressure from the nozzle to clean the brush. Place it back in the bucket. Repeat this process for the next 3. 3. When finished step 2, clean the sponge and brush as outlined in step 2. Dump the soap from the bucket and rinse the bucket out with clean water. 4. Fill up the now clean bucket from step 3 and another clean bucket with car wash soap. I usually put 4 or 5 cap fulls of soap in my bucket. It allows my to fill up the bucket with more water half way through my wash, and still maintain good suds. Put two different dedicated 100% chenille wash mitts into each bucket. Do not re-use the sponge from step two on your paint! One bucket/mitt will be used to clean all horizontal surfaces and all vertical surfaces above the middle of the door. The other bucket/mitt will be used to clean all areas of the car below the middle of the door. Why am I doing this you ask? Well, the areas below the door tend to be dirtier, thus you wouldn’t want to use the same mitt on the horizontal areas as it will most likely cause swirls. I use two buckets because it allows me to keep my wash water cleaner during the process. Using one bucket will guarantee dirty water and in turn create swirls. 5. Start by washing the highest part of your car and working your way down. You should mist the roof and front and rear windows with water. Dip your sponge for your top part of the car into its bucket. Gently glide the mitt over the paint. Try not to apply pressure. The weight of your arm should be enough. Go in a front to back motion, NOT circular. I can't stress this enough. Why? Well, if you get grit trapped in your mitt, it will create swirls in your paint. Front to back swirls are much harder to see than circular, minimizing the damage. Do half the roof. Flip your mitt over and do the other half of the roof. Then use the remaining soap on the mitt to clean the front and rear windows. Rinse the roof and windows with misting water. Rinse the mitt by spraying both sides with full force. Wring the water out, dip it in the bucket and begin cleaning the hood. Do half the hood with one side of the sponge, the other half with the other side. Rinse the hood with misting water. Clean the mitt and wring it out. Put it back in its dedicated bucket. Take the bottom mitt and begin cleaning the front grill, headlights and front bumper, fogs, etc. Rinse the area with water. Rinse the mitt and place it back in its bucket. Move onto the trunk. Take the sponge for the top and clean the trunk lid. Flip it over and clean the back of the trunk above the bumper. Rinse the areas and rinse the mitt. Take the bottom mitt and clean the area below the bumper. Rinse the area and rinse the mitt. Take the sponge for the top and clean the rear quarter panel, flip the mitt over and clean the rear door (if you have a sedan) above the molding. Take the remaining soap and clean the frame above the window and the window itself. Rinse the door and quarter panel, window and the mitt. Do the same thing for front fender and front door. Rinse the area and mitt. Do the opposite side in the same manner. Take the mitt for the bottom part and clean the front door below the molding. Flip the mitt over and clean the rear door. Use the remaining soap to clean the rocker panel. Rinse the area and the mitt. Do the opposite side in the same manner. Your car is now complete! Just some general notes: Always mist the area with water before washing it with the mitt. Always mist the paint when washing the soap off. Directing a high-pressure spray is not good for the clear coat. Always go in front to back motions with the mitt. Always glide the mitt over the area. Always rinse the mitt with a full spray before dipping it back into the buckets. This will ensure the mitt and wash water stays clean How to: Properly Dry your Car Once you have completed washing your car you should remove the nozzle from the hose. Turn the water on and let it fall on the horizontal surfaces starting from the roof, and working down to the trunk and hood. This will sheet most of the water off the paint. Once the water has finished sheeting, take a quality cotton or MF towel and blot the remaining water off your paint. Try not to rub. Rubbing is the enemy, even on clean paint. It is still possible to create micro scratches while drying if rubbing. Use separate towels to dry the rims, paint, glass, and door jambs. If you dry immediately after you wash then you should not get any water spots on your windows, eliminating the need to use ammonia based window cleaners. njustidokite, BeemaaZ, Indiana102 and 2 others like this. __________________ The370Z Signature Pictures ll Want to rock our forum decals on your car? Then click here! ll How to Embed YouTube Videos In a Post STOP! (Hammertime) ll Become a Premium Member Click HERE ll F.A.Q. Are You a Nissan Dealer? Click Here to Become A "Supporting Dealer" and Start Listing Your 370Zs In Our Inventory Section My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3 Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.

05-10-2010, 08:44 AM	#7 (permalink)
AK370Z Administrator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NJ Posts: 9,930 Drives: 09 370Z MB Sports M6 Rep Power: 10	How to: Wash your car in the winter How to: Wash your car in the winter I know many of the detailing pros in the forum may disagree with the content in this article. Winter washing can be a very tricky subject. My main objective when washing in the winter is to keep the salt and other dirt off of my car, and ensure that it stays swirl free. I’m not necessarily looking for the perfect shine. I’ve come to accept the reality that my car will not stay clean for more than one day in the winter. No sooner do I wash it, it starts snowing, and the salt trucks are out in full force not long after that. With that said, I decided that it wasn’t worth it for me to freeze my pants off attempting to hand wash my car in my garage with warm water. The effort always seemed wasted. I needed to find a way to get the dirt off without damaging my finish in any way. Thankfully, I found it. Imho, the most effective and painless way I have found to wash my car in the winter is to go through a touchless automatic car wash found at my local gas station. Touchless washes have many advantages: - They don’t use any brushes whatsoever. No contact is made with your paint. - They use recycled water. Many believe this is a bad thing. I don’t think it is. Recycled water tends to be softer, thus reducing the potential for hard water spots. Most reputable places will filter the reused water ensuring it is clean prior to reuse on your car. - Many automatic car washes will also wash the underbody of your car, another area where salt can stick and cause damage. - The water pressure is not directed at a concentrated area of your car, rather it is dispersed evenly everywhere with the express purpose of cleaning the finish safely. The biggest key to avoiding swirls from a touchless wash is NOT TO DRY THE CAR AFTER YOU EXIT THE WASH!!!. Let the car dry on its own. Why you ask? Well, as good as touchless washes are, they will never replace a good home hand wash. There will still be a very thin film of dirt present on your paint. Guess what happens if you rub a towel on your paint with dirt on it? That’s right, nasty swirl marks will appear. Not a good thing. As mentioned before, there is no need to worry about water spots, because the water is recycled. What I would recommend is wiping off your door-jambs and door sills, as water may find its way in there. Many people advocate visiting a coin operated hand wash place. My question is why?? It’s really no different than hand washing at home. And I’ve already told you why I don’t like that. I also don’t like the high pressure of the spray nozzle. You could potentially push dirt into your clear coat. I’m also not a fan of the quick detail in between washing, or worse yet, as a replacement for washing. No amount of qd can replace the thick suds of good car wash soap. No qd can lubricate and safely lift winter dirt and salt off your car safely. I guarantee you will create swirls using this method. Remember, friction is the enemy. The less you touch your car, the less micro marring you put in the clear coat. This goes not only for winter washing and drying, but also for year round washing and drying. Many people have also expressed concern about the aggressiveness of the soap used at touchless washes. Will it dull my paint? Will it strip my wax or sealant? The answers are no, and no. I’ve been taking my cars thru touchless washes for the last few years and have encountered no problems to date. My klasse sealant glaze always sheets water the first time I hand wash my car in the spring. This tells me that there is still SG left on my paint. The fact that there is still a thin film of dirt present on my paint after existing the wash is another indicator that the soap is not as aggressive as believed. It’s also very important to clay and use a paint cleaner on your paint during your big spring detail. Performing these two steps are the best ways to rejuvenate your finish after a harsh northern winter. I can vouch for this method 100%. I have not had any issues with it. In my opinion it is the very best and most practical way to care for your car in the winter. njustidokite and Datsun Z like this. __________________ The370Z Signature Pictures ll Want to rock our forum decals on your car? Then click here! ll How to Embed YouTube Videos In a Post STOP! (Hammertime) ll Become a Premium Member Click HERE ll F.A.Q. Are You a Nissan Dealer? Click Here to Become A "Supporting Dealer" and Start Listing Your 370Zs In Our Inventory Section My Monterey Blue Z ll My Exhaust --> My Intake --> G3 Nissan's Official Response Regarding Oil Temp Issue: CLICK HERE Need a Set of Cheap Winter wheels /Tires? Then Visit The Banner Link Below and Place Your Order. You'll Help Keep The370Z Alive.

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