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Need serious advice from guys that know paint protection

Originally Posted by rajmangal7 I was told by a "body shop expert" that that needs to be done. Here's the deal. Any buffing or polishing is supposed to be done

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Old 08-06-2015, 03:21 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rajmangal7 View Post
I was told by a "body shop expert" that that needs to be done.
Here's the deal. Any buffing or polishing is supposed to be done by the shop that is painting the car. That is not YOUR job! That's part of the price that YOU paid THEM! When the car leaves the shop, the ONLY thing that you should have to do is wash the car until the paint cures. After the paint cures, you can apply whatever protection that you want to use. You should NOT have to do ANYTHING else. I would seriously advise you to sit down with the person who painted the car (NOT the body shop manager, the person who DID THE WORK), and get a thorough understanding of what he advises you as to what needs to be done. Of all things, CLAYING a brand new paint job that wasn't shipped to you by rail is completely ludicrous unless the car was painted outdoors during a dirt storm. From the pictures that you posted, that doesn't seem to be the case.

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Originally Posted by rajmangal7 View Post
I'm not sure they said its procedure. I always thought the paint is not supposed to even be washed or waxed for a period of time, but the painter says otherwise.
That's why you need to take a pen and paper with you and get some CLARITY. I have never heard of a painter telling a customer that the customer needs to buff his fresh paint job.

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Originally Posted by rajmangal7 View Post
I have always been told to buff the paint every 3 months or so.
Now tell me why you would need to buff the paint every 3 months or so? Do you know WHY you even buff paint? What is your reasoning as to WHY that would be a good idea?

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Originally Posted by rajmangal7 View Post
I figured that if the paint was perfect and I put a clear bra or xpel over it then it would be protected but i am worried about clear bra hazing and damaging the paint more than helping.
And how would a clear bra damage the paint? As for hazing, if you use some cheap, Chinese brand knock-off product, you should expect that kind of result. All of these clear bra products on the market are NOT the same. There is plenty of eBay and Amazon sold crap out there. For the most part, you get what you pay for.

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Originally Posted by rajmangal7 View Post
I spoke to the painter and he said curing time is in between 1-2 weeks. He said it can sit in a garage all that time and does not need to be in the sun.

-Raj
I would follow his advice if I were you.
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Last edited by Junkman2008; 08-06-2015 at 03:23 AM.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
Here's the deal. Any buffing or polishing is supposed to be done by the shop that is painting the car. That is not YOUR job! That's part of the price that YOU paid THEM! When the car leaves the shop, the ONLY thing that you should have to do is wash the car until the paint cures. After the paint cures, you can apply whatever protection that you want to use. You should NOT have to do ANYTHING else. I would seriously advise you to sit down with the person who painted the car (NOT the body shop manager, the person who DID THE WORK), and get a thorough understanding of what he advises you as to what needs to be done. Of all things, CLAYING a brand new paint job that wasn't shipped to you by rail is completely ludicrous unless the car was painted outdoors during a dirt storm. From the pictures that you posted, that doesn't seem to be the case.



That's why you need to take a pen and paper with you and get some CLARITY. I have never heard of a painter telling a customer that the customer needs to buff his fresh paint job.



Now tell me why you would need to buff the paint every 3 months or so? Do you know WHY you even buff paint? What is your reasoning as to WHY that would be a good idea?



And how would a clear bra damage the paint? As for hazing, if you use some cheap, Chinese brand knock-off product, you should expect that kind of result. All of these clear bra products on the market are NOT the same. There is plenty of eBay and Amazon sold crap out there. For the most part, you get what you pay for.



I would follow his advice if I were you.

The painter said that they're going to wash the car and dry it and wax it right before they give it back.

I have always been told to buff the paint every three months or so because the swirl marks will start to build up and the paint will start to lose its protection from wax and protectants.

I was thinking about doing xpel since I've heard good things. I just don't want my paint peel off if I decide to take the film off.


-Raj
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by rajmangal7 View Post
The painter said that they're going to wash the car and dry it and wax it right before they give it back.

I have always been told to buff the paint every three months or so because the swirl marks will start to build up and the paint will start to lose its protection from wax and protectants.

I was thinking about doing xpel since I've heard good things. I just don't want my paint peel off if I decide to take the film off.


-Raj
Raj, depending on the painters prep-work for the paintjob, which it sounds you trust, you will be fine with applying a protectant film, given that you give the paint plenty of time to cure.

My buddy Jason, who detailed my Z, also recommended Xpel for perfect edges but did mention it can tend to have a slight texture to it. To some, maybe the "orange peal" look is not too noticeable, though. Suntek has a good product, too, without the texture, but not as good of a warranty compared to Xpel, according to him.
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Old 08-06-2015, 02:43 PM   #4 (permalink)
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... I have always been told to buff the paint every three months or so because the swirl marks will start to build up and the paint will start to lose its protection from wax and protectants.

-Raj
And THAT my friend is why you need to watch these videos. The ONLY reason swirl marks will begin to appear is because YOU are doing something completely wrong to your paint.

Let me give you this little tidbit to consider. The swirl marks are in your clear coat. In order to remove them, you have to polish the clear coat, which REMOVES a measurable amount of clear coat in the process. How much clear is actually removed depends on the type of polisher and products used. With that said, do you think that the amount of clear coat on your car is infinite? Do you think that it grows back like hair? If not, guess what constantly polishing your paint will eventually do?

Ahhh yesss..... I see your light bulb coming on.
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