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I have bc br too. The rear passanger makes a clunk sound when going over bumps. The driver side makes noise too but it has to be a big bump.
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I have bc br too. The rear passanger makes a clunk sound when going over bumps. The driver side makes noise too but it has to be a big bump. From what I've read coilovers can make noise because it's mostly metal to metal contact. Some people with coilovers have noise and some don't, some people are bothered by the noise and some aren't.
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2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Also, how do you adjust preload on the rear springs? The instructions dont mention anything about this and this was never brought up by the installer. My only thoughts are that the rubber isolator (on top of rear spring perch) is not thick or robust enough to dampen these noises. Did you notice how big the OEM rear spring isolator is? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,722
Drives: z34 - R1
Rep Power: 491 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
For the rears what you need to do is remove the stock strut and spring
Take the spring seat collars and set them at the same level not tightening them yet Put the springs on, put the tires back on and bring the car to the floor See if the height of the car is the desired height, if not then raise it back up doing the prev steps (be sure to keep the height about 1/4" higher than what you want as you still need to set preload) Once you have achieved the height you want, raise the car back up, take out the springs and spring seats tighten the collars on the spring seat and reinstall (if you try to tighten them while on the car there is a possibility you can strip them) You should have a bolt that goes through the factory lower arm and bolts to our spring seat, at this point tighten that too Take your spare jack and place under the hub raise the hub so that the spring sits snug but not compressed Now install the strut, tightening the top only Measure the distance from the center of the hub to the fender Raise jack 1/4" creating the preload on the spring Scroll the lower mount of the strut up so that its level with its mounting bolt, slide the bolt through it and tighten At this point you should have the spring preloaded 1/4" and the ride height at your desired level.
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2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Seattle
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Drives: z34 - R1
Rep Power: 491 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
__________________
2010 k23 H&R sport springs / Spc rear camber arms / SSR SP1 / Berk cbe / Varis cf lip / Nismo S-Tune side skirts
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#6 (permalink) |
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Track Member
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I think that may be the problem. When I jack the rear of the Z up i can reach in their and rattle the hell out of the springs. If I remember I think even the installer said this was normal on this suspension design...guess that is BS then huh. So even when the rear tires are completely off the ground (jacked up by rear diff) the springs should be solid in there with no rattle or movement?
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