I used some DIY instructions on here and they were pretty thorough

I used diy from here . Not bike honda s2k

You can't do springs on this car with one side of the car still on the ground. The sway bars will make it very difficult to get it all back together and make it very dangerous to boot. Link me to this DIY that advises you to do what you are doing so that I can get it deleted.

:iagree:

Yep. Plus, a S2K has the same style front suspension, doesn't it? So the "only jack up one side" method would be just as much of a fail as it is here?

You can stop being a **** to the newb... he doesnt know where the proper jack point is in the front so yes, this is brand specific.

Newb, look under the car beyond the oil pan and belly pan. There is a flat surface surface that is connected to the front suspension and unibody, that is an appropriate jack point. It's hard to reach (nearly impossible) especially after being lowered.

http://passwordjdm.com/images/370z/28.jpg

The need to have the whole front end off the ground isn't brand specific, not the jack points.

I'm not going to argue but I have changed suspension on my gtp back in 1999'ish without lifting the entire front. Why? I was 18 with only 1 jack stand. Did I get it installed and is it still driving to this day, yup. Is it easier when lifting the entire front end? Of course.

There are nicer ways of responding to those lacking the know how regardless of how they claim to know things.

Did it work? Sure. Was it safe? **** no.

:argue:

So dudebro was nice enough to post a pic without indicating the proper lifting points, allow me to supply this helpfully annotated image.

The points that PWJDM used to lift the car are probably 'okay' and probably the only place they could reach without ******* up that nismo's body work (since they probably don't have lift adapters to clear the skirts), but they are not the Nissan-approved lifting points.

I have circled the Nissan-approved lift/side jacking points in green and circled the Nissan-approved 'shop jacking' points in blue. The front is a "nipple" or "bump" that sticks out in the front, the rear is the differential carrier.

Jack the front first with the parking brake set, transmission in gear and wheel chocks in place. Then lift the rear after the front is securely on jack stands placed at the Nissan-approved side jacking points (green circles) as far forward as possible. Place your rear jack stands at the rear side jacking points (green circles) as far rearward as possible.

Reverse the process to lower.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1395687435

Even with both in the air I couldn't pull them out or in. It cockeyed the long *** bolt that goes through everything with how the endlink bolts to the sway. It takes literally 20 seconds a side to undo the link off the sway. That way the long bolt can go in without issue. It still needs off the ground to pull the lower.

If you look really close at that pic though the black rubber pads are correct though.

I did it. I had to disconnect the front sway and lifted and installed one side at a time.

Yes, that's one way to get around the sway bar issue.

Lots of mistakes made by the OP here. I hope he's at least using jack stands...

After you raise the front end, make sure the top hat is aligned correctly or the lower holes still wont line up. I learned the hard way and had to recompress both sides and rotate the top hat slightly