Problems with swift lowering spring install
 

Im installing swifts and cant get this bolt to slide in lower strut on driver side. Any tips on to slide the bolt in easy . Also did you guys have to compress your new swift springs in order to install on strut, i had to compress my swifts in order to install
On struts. Any easier ways to slude this long bolt in on bottom of strut

Any tips to get this bolt to slide in? Did you swift guys have to compress your new swift front springs to install on struts. I thought lowering springs didnt have to be compressed on strut

First, type with spell check/proofreading.

Second, swift doesn't make junk " lowering springs". They make performace springs. Junk springs don't need compressed because they provide zero pre-load. You'll need a good 559 lbs to compress these since 1. They're linear springs. And 2. Proved proper pre-load.

Third, ever think about taking the endlink off the sway bar? Kinda hard to put it back cockeyed.

Forth, if you don't know these are a huge pain to compress for install...why would you be putting the endlink back into the hole? You're not at that point yet.

I already placed the swifts on struts just having problems with sliding the bolt in on lower strut

Use a jack to get it into place.

I didn't have to do this on the Z, but it's worked for me on other vehicles. Go slow.

you probably put the top hat on incorrectly. it needs to be aligned perfectly. get yourself a copy of the service manual.

is your car on jackstands?

your front or rear needs to be equally level on both sides inorder to get the swaybar endlinks back on the car without forcing it.
btw, if you do force it in, your threads could shear off.

Yea car on jackstands on driver side. One side is up

Why wouldn't you have the whole front end up in the air?

How i jack up front i dnt c any jackpoints

thats the problem. the torsion is working against you. raise the other side with your jack.

best way is to put your car on a ramp and tighten it with the vehicle load on it though.

Because i jacked it up in the side

you didnt read my other post on your other thread. download the service manual before you damage your car or get yourself killed. :mad:

Yeah, you're doing this all wrong. Jack the front end up.

And do not try to use the jack on the lower arm to line things up until you have the whole front end off the ground.

If you can't figure out how to get the car completely in the air, take the car to someone more capable to get these springs installed.

You're going to hurt yourself.

:iagree:

Thanks guys. Is it normal to compress front swift springs onto strut? I had to compress my swift to put on tophats

Yes, compressing the springs is necessary unless the new springs are drastically shorter than OEM.

:facepalm:

It's also not a strut.

#suspensiontechnologynazi

you....might want to read up a bit more on springs.

Now should be when you call one of your buddies who has done this sort of job before. Having your front end disassemble itself at speed could get you or someone else hurt or killed.

Im new to nissan scene , im used to slow hondas

This issue you're having isn't brand specific.

Ive done it before on hondas just not nissan.

While only jacking up one side of the vehicle?

:ugh:

i doubt that... unless you're talking about a bike or something with no torsion bar. lol

I used some DIY instructions on here and they were pretty thorough

I used diy from here . Not bike honda s2k

You can't do springs on this car with one side of the car still on the ground. The sway bars will make it very difficult to get it all back together and make it very dangerous to boot. Link me to this DIY that advises you to do what you are doing so that I can get it deleted.

:iagree:

Yep. Plus, a S2K has the same style front suspension, doesn't it? So the "only jack up one side" method would be just as much of a fail as it is here?

You can stop being a **** to the newb... he doesnt know where the proper jack point is in the front so yes, this is brand specific.

Newb, look under the car beyond the oil pan and belly pan. There is a flat surface surface that is connected to the front suspension and unibody, that is an appropriate jack point. It's hard to reach (nearly impossible) especially after being lowered.

http://passwordjdm.com/images/370z/28.jpg

The need to have the whole front end off the ground isn't brand specific, not the jack points.

I'm not going to argue but I have changed suspension on my gtp back in 1999'ish without lifting the entire front. Why? I was 18 with only 1 jack stand. Did I get it installed and is it still driving to this day, yup. Is it easier when lifting the entire front end? Of course.

There are nicer ways of responding to those lacking the know how regardless of how they claim to know things.

Did it work? Sure. Was it safe? **** no.

:argue:

So dudebro was nice enough to post a pic without indicating the proper lifting points, allow me to supply this helpfully annotated image.

The points that PWJDM used to lift the car are probably 'okay' and probably the only place they could reach without ******* up that nismo's body work (since they probably don't have lift adapters to clear the skirts), but they are not the Nissan-approved lifting points.

I have circled the Nissan-approved lift/side jacking points in green and circled the Nissan-approved 'shop jacking' points in blue. The front is a "nipple" or "bump" that sticks out in the front, the rear is the differential carrier.

Jack the front first with the parking brake set, transmission in gear and wheel chocks in place. Then lift the rear after the front is securely on jack stands placed at the Nissan-approved side jacking points (green circles) as far forward as possible. Place your rear jack stands at the rear side jacking points (green circles) as far rearward as possible.

Reverse the process to lower.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1395687435