SPL rear titanium mid links, springs???
 

Help post 13!!







If I buy the spl mid links I can no longer use my swift spec-r rear springs or OEM. What do you all suggest that is a good replacement from swift? I see most are 2.5" in diameter but length are all different. When I talked to Fortune Auto about their 510's and I told them what the car was for and they suggested I buy their coilovers with 15k front and 13k rear. The swift spec-r now I believe are 10k front and 10.5k rear but obviously on OEM shocks.

I don't have money to do the coilovers now and the mid links if I go OEM coilovers or true coilovers and SPL rear toe arms. I need rear toe adjustment at the moment and it's all I care about. So the cheapest plan is mid links with new rear springs. Should be under $1000. But do I buy the 13k spring now or buy a softer spring until I can get the front coilover to match with it plus a new rear shock that can handle that rate? Also the 13k spring might be bad with the OEM shock plus 10k front and 13k rear might handle like ****. So let's say I go with a 8k, 9k, 10k, rear...do I buy 6" spring, 7", 8"??? The mid link can obviously adjust height so maybe it doesn't matter? But if it didn't, why does swift make a 5,6,7,8,9,10,11" spring in a 65mm ID?

57 views and no response? No one has OEM style coilovers?

the cheapest option would be to install an aftermarket toe bolt for more adjustment (cutting & enlarging required(

just for reference, my coilovers came with a rear 12kg @ 7'' long and I have about 1 3/8'' adjustment to go lower
It currently sit at 1/2'' lower 27 1/2 Vs 28'' oem (ground to center wheel arches)


and I'm not answering the last question, hehe its a bit obvious.

Swift makes universal 2.5" ID springs because they're just that, they're universal to span different applications. It's just a spring so multiple cars can use them.

I went with SPC toe bolts to adjust toe because I didn't want to buy new rear springs for my Bilstein coilovers. So I have all of the SPL parts except for the mid link.

As far as spring length for the rear, check out this thread: http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...lovers-v3.html

ENT-Z used a 2.5" ID 7" length Swift universal spring with his SPL mid links.

Don't even know if I answered any of your questions, but personally I would just get the toe bolts and call it a day. Not sure if Fortune Auto coilovers are "true coilovers" in the rear, but if they're OEM-style, then I would just go toe bolts and skip the mid links all together. That's what I did at least. I figure if you got the super high spring rate in the rear expecting to switch out to Fortune Autos later, it'll probably handle like crap until then because your spring rates are going to be all weird.

True but eccentric bolts slip and I made a lock out kit for that reason. Toe is perfect right now but I'm running -2.1 camber. If I got to -1.8 or even -1.5 I shoot to almost 1 degree of toe. This idea may not be cheap but at $84 per spring and I can buy all the swifts I want in the furture to adjust for the perfect ride.

I had a feeling it was 7". Just couldn't find the info. I must have seen it before. I think ill do 10k, maybe 9k so it feels like the spec-r I have now. Unless you suggest even softer. My weight ratio is 57/43 so my azz end is extremely light.

I'll do a 7" then. Seems the most popular and the mid links have 3" adjustment so it should be good if coilover people are running it.

I don't want slippage. I want all solid bushings and lockout kits, you name it. :tup: FA coilovers are a OEM type which is why they suggest a 13k rear. A true type like spohn runs is only a 5k. It's like half the weight in a true type. Since ill do FA later I still need the mid links for toe. Plus you eliminate some parts in the rear since you need your OEM link plus the height adjuster sitting in it. Spl is more simple and cool :happydance:

SPL Mid links are great. The 7" Swift 60mm spring is what I am using with my mid links and my OEM type twin mono flex coil overs. I went with 12K rate (tein mono flex comes with 14K front and rear) but after further research after I bought them I think I would go with 10K if I had to do it over again. My first track session on this new set up is in a few weeks so I will see if I need to swap springs - luckily they aren't crazy expensive!

You sure about the 60mm and not 65mm? Spl says 2.5" ID springs, not OD. A 60mm wouldn't fit at 2.38" I'd think around that center bulge. Yeah the swap will be nice when these springs run about $84 each. I have a lead on some 9k new/used right now. So I'll be at 10k front and 9k rear on OEM shocks for the time being till I get coilovers.

Well I bought the spl mid links. Bought used springs. I believe they are 10k and 2.5" ID and 6". We shall see when they get here.

Holy geez these are tiny. Swift little weighs 1.88lbs. Swift big weights 8.2lbs.

OEM arm with upper and lower rubber, 1.00, 0.40, and 3.84.

Spl arm 6.06, upper metal mount 1.42.

Dammit! More rear weight loss. Im already 57/43 ratio :shakes head:

I'm worried about something if someone can help...

I installed the spl mid links and the 6" swift 10kg springs. The car is at a ride height of 26 3/16th on both sides. I don't remember where the car sat before the install with the swift spec-r's. I know it was 26 something, I think high 26. The spl mid link is about half way to get to that height and where spl said it should be.

The issue is if I jack the car up the spring almost falls out of the bucket. If this happened it'd be a total crash or worse! So basically I have zero preload if that's what you call it. I've seen Z's on three wheels before so there is a chance the spring could pop out on a track. Not to mention the loud banging all the time as the spring pops in and out over big holes all the time beating up the upper and lower buckets.

What do I do? Buy an adjustable length shock?

Almost popping out, only one side jacked up.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps5cf10557.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psc75c962d.jpg


http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps29cbc155.jpg

you need a 7" spring ... stock is 10" and the midlink changes the geometry height about 3 inches higher than stock ...

But then the car would be at stock height no?

nope you can adjust up or down about 2.5 inches ... a 7" spring just gets you to the same starting point as the stock spring. 6" spring is too short, as you have proven :)

But then the link won't be mid way. I can't see how it will help. If I put a 7" in ill have to lower the coil an inch to get back to 26 3/16th. Then the spring will be right back where it was.:confused:

:tup:

to adjust the pre-load on the spring ,, yeah adjustable shock will get you there.

Figured. FA better hook it up.

Synolimit I got your setup off you bro, so should I sell off the 6" springs and get 7" ones or does me having Koni Yellows make a diff?

I have no problems getting 7" spring. I'm just asking because synolimit's setup was with stock shocks, whereas I got the Koni Yellows.

Thanks in advance guys.

Like I've said before...a different length spring isn't going to do anything. If you put a 7" spring in there all you're going to do is raise the car 1". If you want it 1" higher than just raise the adjustable perch up 1".

I have the 7" 11kg 65mm springs and I have the mid link threaded all the way down as low as I can go and it is pretty much the same height as stock. I'm gonna try a 6" 11kg 65mm spring and see if I get the height I want. FYI I talked to SPL about the spring being wobbly or loose before there is load on it and they said that is fine and perfectly normal.

IF I have a stock spring suspension, and (for the time being) only want to have a "stock spring" in back...what rate and size would need to be ordered for that with the titanium midlinks?

Tracy Ramsey

7" since it seems you stay around stock height or 6" if you want an inch drop or more. the rear rate stock is like 7-8k but remember the stocks are a progressive spring while these types of swifts are linear.

Hmmm...great..progressive. I just want to keep the rear from slipping around during the One Lap of America. Time to do some research and figure out the best rate to go with. Eventually, there will be coilovers, but the budget, for now, dictates otherwise.

Tracy Ramsey

I installed the 6" springs and got the drop I was looking for and everything is sturdy and rides great! I really like this set up!

Installed 8" springs that I already had but will switch to 6".
http://www.the370z.com/members/dr_-a...kout-bolts.jpg

Look pretty sexy:tiphat:

Sorry to bump an old thread, but I'm considering the SPL midlinks and I'm trying to determine the best springs to pair with the NISMO S-Tune struts/springs. I'm thinking 7" Swift Race Springs, either 9 or 10kgf/mm spring rate. What have others gone with?

Thanks!

Actually I'm just wondering the actual difference with handling etc between mid-link and standard set up?

Anyone throw me a bone?

Cheers

Suspension geometry doesn't change from stock. The advantages are that you can use more readily available 2.5" ID springs, adjust ride height (could help handling), and can adjust camber and toe with a more robust adjustment than just toe bolts.

I run them on my autox car only because the rules for my class don't allow for running a true coilover in the rear.

Cheers for that,

Bump for a problem.

I just installed mine. When I go into any driveway I 3 wheel essentially, and you can hear the spring "pop" like it's going to pop out.

This normal?

Oh, and how much of a bitch is it for you guys to move the perch up and down with load? (Hell, even without the load of the car, just the "preload")

7" spring. 8k

Bump

No one likes you anymore...

:icon17:

I'm going out on a limb here. No. Wish I could be of more help :tiphat:

When I installed mine I had the pop the first time I tried pulling out of my driveway. Scared the sh!t out of me. After that it never happened again. All I could ever figure was one of the springs wasn't seated properly on the top mounting surface. Maybe try rotating the springs 90°. Also, does disconnecting the rear sway bar help at all?

As far as adjustment goes there's no way in hell I can move the perch without removing the spring but then again I'm also running 900 lb/in springs on mine. I would think with a softer spring and the rear of the car off the ground you should be able to adjust them though.

I'll try rotating them, but it shouldn't make a difference, they're flat on both sides.
I have no rear sway bar.

And that's what I said, BULLSHÍT a human can move the perch... I called SPL they guy said you should be able to, it won't be easy, but it's doable... I couldn't move it worth a damn, lol

Could you potentially post a pic of your setup? One side with like your cell phone under the car is fine. Just trying to see if my setup looks way the hell off...


Thanks in advance :tiphat: