Well, you're pretty scrawny, IINM.

http://s3.roosterteeth.com/images/At...4c5160c877.jpg

^no, I don't, lol

Helper spring FTW...

Tracy Ramsey

At his size you don't have to pump iron...just sayin! :D

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Here you go. The reason I suggested rotating the springs was as you can see in my pics, the spring is not compressed perfectly up and down. The thought was maybe the way the spring was compressing two of the coils were coming together.

Another thought, is there any chance your shocks are binding somewhere through their stroke? I know my shocks have a spherical upper mount to help them articulate better. Maybe yours are just sticking and the pop is when they release.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1551/...a386e7f7_z.jpg

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1708/...ac1682f7_z.jpg

By the way you owe me one now. Laying on a cold concrete floor in ~20° weather sucks.

I don't think you can do that for the rears

Thank you, and please gimme your PayPal.

Mine:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...0461269B15.jpg

Last night I adjusted the buckets all the way up... Still clanks like crazy

As for the strut binding, how would I know/check? (The sound is DEFINITEY) from the springs though.

Did you adjust your shock height so that on full droop it doesn't unseat the spring?

What did SPL say when you contacted them with your concerns?

Ok... So...

KW V3s don't have adjustable shock heights... I'm SOL as of now I guess... I've been so busy I can only contact SPL by email after hours.

Have you checked your bushing? Is the pop maybe coming from the knuckle bushing?

They advised to run a 7" vs a 6" but then stopped when i stated that wouldnt make sence with the ride height i wanted. If 6" is dead center on the adjuster then 7" would just force me to lower the adjuster putting it not dead center but have it 1" lower unless i wanted to look like a 4x4. They agreed and i just left it. After some time the spring stayed solid even when jacking the car up. I never had issues and the car tracked perfect even tight fast autox events. Only time i thought there was a problem was when i fully unloaded the spring when jacking the car up with in first few times i did it. Idk why it got tighter over time but they did and i never had noise DE is stating.

Late to the party but i dont see how to stop it. Mine stopped getting loose over time. Maybe after a lot of autox. It gets loose because the suspensions unloaded. Only way i can think to fix is 1. Jack the car way up so the spring is always loaded when the cars off the ground but good luck with the 4x4 look or 2. Get a rear shock to keep preload on the spring when off the ground. True coils FTW

Maybe my oem shocks blew or something and couldnt travel down as far after a season of racing??

My BC coilovers (ER series) are not true type but have an adjustment on the stock to control the length. In this picture you can see the rear shock (one without the spring on it) has a threaded body. You adjust that so that when completely unloaded the spring does not come unseated, basically keeping a small amount of preload on it.
http://cdn3.volusion.com/x3jra.ue7am...jpg?1454592604

I have 7" springs, but no 4x4 height. The perches are all the way up, and it's at OEM height, or close to it

I haven't checked the bushing, but nothing was out of the norm. I can hear the spring decompressing when I'm going over a bump...
I'm also at the extreme of adjustment on the arm too

I've put SPL through hell and back the last couple of days. There have been some oddities with my car aside from the spring sitting shítty. They're going to send me a "prototype" part to help me out in a few weeks once it's closer to actual production.

Not sure how much info they want me to keep, but... It's a good design, and so far it looks like just my car has this issue...

So your problem was all caused by the springs not sitting properly?

Still is. For some reason on my car the spring is like an inch off center. No good solution yet

If anyone has pics of their adjuster, I'd like to see how much it's threaded out.

Well since I DIDNT f*^k the guy who clames I did who I sold my links to cause they were perfect on my car, maybe yours are 350z's? Even though I doubt that's an issue because I gave away my oem buckets to a 350z guy and he has no issue. So idk

I think that's a prob then. A 7" spring at oem heights probably putting it at an odd angle. You saw my pics and gomers, 6" spring with adjuster at half way and straight when compressed. You need to slam it or go 6".

My springs are 7" free length.

Whathuh?

And SPL said they're the same and that I have the newest revision

Really late to this one, but I called them on the same issue about the spring alignment. They said it was normal when car was jacked up, when car is down on ground it looks ok from what I can see. I'm running a 6" spring and my adjuster is in the middle, have plenty of room to go either way. Total bitch adjusting them though - the spring binds on tbe inside of the adjuster.

When the weather gets nice I have to play with my droop, any major bump I hit it sounds like I am slamming up against something with the suspension, but not seeing anything amiss.

Here is a picture of mine with the car on the ground.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...221_163437.jpg

I was looking at these but man they seem to be a pain to get right.

There is some trial and error. I just backed the car up on race ramps and have enough room to make adjustments without removing anything. Take it out for a spin and measure. It is a nice setup.

Any benefits besides getting rid of the toe bolt cheesy crap?

For a daily driver, probably not, except for the adjustibility - and the chubby ya might get when under the car. What you have listed in your post is almost my exact setup. I can never leave well enough alone, hense my reasoning for doing it.

Addressed a couple of pages back.

For a daily driver, probably not, except for the adjustibility - and the chubby ya might get when under the car. What you have listed in your post is almost my exact setup. I can never leave well enough alone, hense my reasoning for doing it.

This was prior to putting the mid links on.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...927_090307.jpg

Bringing this back. Anybody has more info on this? I bought the mid links and I am running coil overs but I need the 2.5 springs to get them to fit. However, I am still not too sure about height (whether to go with 6 or 7") and what spring rate? Thank you

I found tein springs at my buddy's shop that were 7" long and 2.5 in diameter. They fit perfect however I don't know what the spring rate is on them. I will contact SPL and neomotorsports (coilover manufacturer) and see what I can come up with

Bumping this thread. I too am experiencing the popping noise when going on ramps

Setup:
Aragosta coilovers w/ pillowball mounts
SPL arms in back: midlink, camber, traction arms
6 inch Swift spring.

Reading the responses above, it appears that adjusting the rear coilover height/length to keep pre-load on teh spring may solve the issue. The Aragosta rears are adjustable, so i'll be playing with that.

There is no rear preload...

You need to fix your droop most likely

You need a helper spring Swift Helper Springs to keep a load on the spring. KW provided me this information as I ran into your same issue Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008. Also you need to find a better alignment shop or if you did this yourself, you need to correctly adjust the top (there is a bolt you can adjust) to move the top spring so when the car is on the ground, the spring still stays straight up and down...vs the way yours is now at a weird angle.

Update:

KW Variant 3 Coil-overs
Hotchkis 370z front sway bar
SPL PRO Front Upper Camber/Caster Arms
SPL PRO Front End Links Spherical
SPL Eccentric lockout kit

SPL TITANIUM Rear Mid Links
SPL TITANIUM Rear Camber Arms
Swift Springs 65mm 5inch 10k
Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008

For those that posted issues with a popping noise or noise when going over bumps. Your issue is you do not have the required helper springs so when you hit a pot hole, bump, or your tire comes off the group, there is no pressure holding your rear springs in the midlink so it's the spring moving...this can be dangerous and your rear spring could come out under the right conditions. My car now drives like it's on rails and is an amazing ride. I have it at the perfect height, no more wheel gap, not slammed, and I can come up an inch or down 2 more inches using the midlink cup.

2010 370Z touring roadster w/sports pkg, convertible

Hotchkis 370z front sway bar
SPL PRO Front Upper Camber/Caster Arms
SPL PRO Front End Links Spherical
SPL Eccentric lockout kit


KW Variant 3 Coil-overs (don't have adjustable shock heights)
SPL TITANIUM Rear Mid Links (when set in middle it allows for another 3/4 inch drop)
SPL TITANIUM Rear Camber Arms

Swift Springs 65mm 7inch 9k (I need to go to a 6inch or 5 inch?)
Swift Helper Springs H65-070-008 (was told by KW this is needed to avoid the POPing issue so many appear to have with the midlinks, this is caused when the spring is not under load, the spring will shift, move, and is dangerous, the helper spring stays flat until it is needed but does add 2" of height.

I currently have the 7 inch spring, the 9k is perfect, stock is 7-8k, I have a convertible and wanted a slightly stiffer ride.

My issue is with the helper spring at 7 inch, my car is like a 4x4. With just the 7 inch spring the car is stock height with the midlink where spl states it should be. That said, do I go with a 5 inch spring to allow for the helper spring, or go with a 6 inch spring? It looks like so many have the popping noise issue and everyone is all over the place with their setups. Suggestions?

Actually the solution is simple, get thrust washers from Swift. Super cheap, they go between the spring and the mount and allow smooth rotation. Conpletely solved any popping

I just ordered my Midlinks and 7" Swift springs today. I should be installing my suspension next weekend. I hope. I am going with 12k fronts and 10k rears.

Love my SPL Parts

Does anyone know if the HKS Hipersport IV gt coilovers work with these midlinks. Having trouble understanding the 2.5" thing