^^^^. Nice!!

Well I just finished. Total about $9 since I bought 4 more nuts since these nuts aren't lock nuts like the OEM ones are, so I doubled them up. The camber is now, drivers side -1.7 and passenger -1.2. So by adding the locket kit I made, I lost -0.2 camber on both sides which is fine till i get the arms because its still within spec and better for not eating up tires. Overall goal will be -2 to -1.5 so the arms should be pretty close in length if I go -1.5. Any suggestions for street and track rear camber?

The final toe is 0.125. Again within factory spec but that's the max amount of toe (1/8th"). I guess at this point I need to install the swifts and check again down the road once they settle. Fingers crossed I only need to buy camber arms.

PS, the exhaust didn't fit after i installed resonators so I made some slits in the pipe to bend it in the directions I needed and then welded the cuts. I only had regular mig wire so hence the black exhaust paint to protect from rusting.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps921f84cc.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps538d4b67.jpg

Read this:

Customized SPL camber and toe lockout plates. - MyG37

Soooo...you're saying on a different car after springs ill need to off center the toe plates or ill be out of spec?

So installed springs today. I got SPL traction arms and camber arms. Initial thoughts are the traction arms may not get me to zero toe. Looks like ill flip the lockout plates to find the best offset to get more toe or make new ones with more offset.

Here's my setup:

Customized SPL camber and toe lockout plates. - MyG37

How would traction arms effect bump steer? How do you know what a good number is? It's not posted anywhere on alignment spec for the rear.