how can it be your pads if pads aren't a moving piece of machinery? pads are stationary and are going to wear at any angle because it is a softer material than rotors, thus re-proving my point that your rotors are slightly warped. If I were you, buy a new set of oem rotors and pads and install them yourself. Follow the torqueing procedures and try it out that way. If you shaved the pad it won't be a even seat on the rotor causing the brake pad to get hot, once it gets hot it could deposit more material onto the rotor causing a hard/hot spot causing it to warp. I have heard of this happening before, which is why I always buy new pads with new or turned rotors.

I would check all of the bushings in the suspension. The nosedive during braking might be pushing something out of wack. Also, have you checked your wheel balance?

What other car have your had with 14" brakes? Bigger rotors amplify the amount of run-out they can have without shaking. Also our cars have stationary mounted calipers which makes it even worse.

Simply throwing a set of rotors on these cars doesn't work, It must be done correctly and should be done on any car. Hack shops that don't care is your issue, not the car. Find a good shop to do it right.

My c6 z06.
I use gtr certified Nissan dealers and techs.
Shaving the pads made it much better. I'm still replacing them. The shake is coming back. Rotors are 500 miles old or less. Shook bad at mile zero, then shave pads and fixed, now starting to shake again. Pads definitely affect things.

It doesn't just happen under hard braking. Barely touching the pedal illicits the same shake as harder braking sometimes in my case. I seriously doubt its bushings.

Balance check the tires.

Tires are fine. Rebalanced already, anyway.

New pads installed. Nissan dealership did the work gratis. They also said that the pads were already glazed. These pads were shaved by them about 500 miles ago when they installed them on my new Z1 slotted rotors. OEM Sport pads...they are crap.

The brake pedal feels a lot firmer and braking more responsive and linear with the stoptechs. I will wait until after my trip in a few weeks to Fayetteville, AR (the App's are fun!) to say whether or not the issue is gone, but it should be.

Are you bedding in your brake pads properly? Also if you are still glazing pads the piston might not be retracting all the way (replace caliper). Every now and then when I get off the highway I'll take the temp of my rotors with a cheapy temp gun just to see if a caliper is dragging. Every car forum seems to have complaints about warping rotors, when the the reality it is rare for the rotor to warp, but very easy to glaze or deposit pad material unevenly on the rotor due to poor or no pad bed-in. I've even had very good luck rebedding pads with 15k miles on them.

So i'm kind of having the same problem as ImportConvert lately, that when I break at high speeds it starts shaking pretty bad. I've changed pads and rotors on other cars, but usually just becuase I notice that the pads are low not because of shaking. My pads seem to still have some meat on them so should I just have them turned first and go from there?

Same problem here. Doubtful about rebedding curing this so I'll probably get the rotors turned. I'm a little surprised with only 8K on them.

It is 99% of the time your pads. I changed my pads and rotors and have 0 issues. Bed them in properly guys. go to 60 mph and decelerate quickly, without activating ABS, to 10mph. Do that 10 times without stopping. Then after the last time drive around for about 15 minutes at about 30 or above to cool. Then repeat the process one more time. You will notice that you will "grip" more when you start, then begin to fade about half way through, then "grip" tightly again toward the end of the set. After the last time drive around at about 30 again for about 15 minutes to cool, then do 2 very aggressive declarations from 70 to 10. Roll for another couple minutes to cool and you're done. That is how I have always bed brakes and I have never had a single issue with any car.

Thanks, so you think i'd be good with just switching the pads?

oh yea. I would try scorched pads too. If its used rotors, start with 2 heavy stops to "clean" off the old stuff BEFORE starting the bedding process.


BTW my post count is now 370. what up.

Cool thanks:xmastup:

My rotors finally came in. I decided on EBC slotted rotors, and red stuff pads.

http://www.the370z.com/members/voice...-slotted-1.jpg

So i sanded my rotors and pads with 80 grit on an orbital sander and then followed the bedding procedure and problem cured. :tup:
We'll see how long it lasts.

I'm liking mine so far.

On the main topic:
Drilled rotors aren't that great from what I know. Mainly because the drilling breaks up the metallurgy chains. They have to be cast that way to be good. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

worst thing you could have done. Now they are not true. Just wasted some cash...congrats! :tiphat:

Sorry I don't follow, I didn't spend any money so I haven't wasted any.
My vibrations and shaking are gone, brakes feel good, rotors and pads are bedded in with a nice coating on the rotors.
If they aren't true then why are they now smooth as butter?

What exactly IS "bedding" brakes? Will new pads not work correctly or become faulty shortly after installation because of not bedding them?

And if possible you can be as technical as possible. If in your explanation you could explain how to do it and what exactly it does that'd be great.

bedding brakes is to get the pad to be equally plained to the rotors. All rotors and pads are machined to be virtually flat so that when the pad mates with the rotor there isn't a high or low spot as the rotor passes inbetween the pads.

So you have to do a series of hard braking to ensure that?

so you evenly sanded the rotors? did you do a total initial run out test to see if they are even? They may be smooth as butter now, but I seriously doubt that they will last after a few serious heat cycles. I don't see how using a orbital sander on any components that are rotating and are already set can benefit your braking system. Being that I have worked in numerous machine shops I can tell you what you did doesn't make any mechanical sense...just sayin.

Yes. You can find it by searching online. I know baer does have a procedure for theirs. Most of the time if you so a couple of hard brakes it will seat. Most of it is done over a longer period of dd. For the most part if you have new rotors and new pads it isn't as noticeable if you had turned rotors that still have a little bit of a groove in them or if you are just doing a pad job.

Much thanks. I'll have to look it up when I get home. Just got blocked by the computer I'm trying to use.

I didn't remove any metal and an orbital sander doesn't really spin at high speed. It just basically removed all the pad deposits and all the glaze off the face of the pads. Obviously removing actual metal this way would result in an uneven surface, which only turning would restore. I finished the rotors with scotchbrite too.
If it doesn't last then I'll look into new rotors and pads but no cost except for time means I had nothing to lose.
I put in a full day of spirited driving today and so far so good. :driving:

well its worth a shot in the dark. I had read this while on my cellphone and I thought you had just bought new rotors and I was like WTF? I still think you will have issues. 80grit it some hard stuff and being that what you did isn't a machined process where it is even then that is what I am worried most. Sand paper does take metal off, I use it to polish bearing journal fits all the time. At the same point we aren't talking much but when you have a small amount missing and if it isn't even then you run the risk of having a imbalance. May not be noticeable now but will be later. I would stick with oem rotors for the most part and maybe upgrade pads if you aren't tracking it.

So do stoptechs rust and ebc rotors rust? like create a rust ring around them?