Weird Marks on my Rotor

BGTV8 · 06-27-2012, 07:45 PM

If you park the car after a track session or a hard-drive and walk away, you will get heat-soak under the pads into the rotor. At a track day. I always carry a small piece of 40mm square timber (an offcut is all that is required) to stop the car rolling away when parked on the pit apron, and every 1 or 2 minutes, push the car 2 feet and re-chock the wheel - move the vehcile enough to rotate the wheel by (say) 90 degrees and shift the pads to another segment of the rotor - this allows the whole rotor to cool more uniformly that it can otherwise.

Is also a good option to not apply the handbrake when the rear rotors are ultra hot.

RB

b1adesofcha0s · 06-27-2012, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BGTV8

If you park the car after a track session or a hard-drive and walk away, you will get heat-soak under the pads into the rotor. At a track day. I always carry a small piece of 40mm square timber (an offcut is all that is required) to stop the car rolling away when parked on the pit apron, and every 1 or 2 minutes, push the car 2 feet and re-chock the wheel - move the vehcile enough to rotate the wheel by (say) 90 degrees and shift the pads to another segment of the rotor - this allows the whole rotor to cool more uniformly that it can otherwise.

Is also a good option to not apply the handbrake when the rear rotors are ultra hot.

RB

That's probably how it happened in the first place. Had a cruise with the mid-A gang on Saturday and pretty much drove my car hard all day and night afterwards. Didn't really allow the rotors to cool whenever I parked the car.

Good news though, re-bedded my pads and the heat spots are gone! The forum saves the day again, thanks a lot guys!

Mike · 06-28-2012, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BGTV8

If you park the car after a track session or a hard-drive and walk away, you will get heat-soak under the pads into the rotor. At a track day. I always carry a small piece of 40mm square timber (an offcut is all that is required) to stop the car rolling away when parked on the pit apron, and every 1 or 2 minutes, push the car 2 feet and re-chock the wheel - move the vehcile enough to rotate the wheel by (say) 90 degrees and shift the pads to another segment of the rotor - this allows the whole rotor to cool more uniformly that it can otherwise.

Is also a good option to not apply the handbrake when the rear rotors are ultra hot.

RB

I just drive straight to the gas station to top off because of the fuel issues, and at most tracks thats a 5-10 minute drive and it cools the brakes too.

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06-27-2012, 07:45 PM	#16 (permalink)
BGTV8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: 03350 Australia Posts: 1,503 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z M6 Rep Power: 29907	If you park the car after a track session or a hard-drive and walk away, you will get heat-soak under the pads into the rotor. At a track day. I always carry a small piece of 40mm square timber (an offcut is all that is required) to stop the car rolling away when parked on the pit apron, and every 1 or 2 minutes, push the car 2 feet and re-chock the wheel - move the vehcile enough to rotate the wheel by (say) 90 degrees and shift the pads to another segment of the rotor - this allows the whole rotor to cool more uniformly that it can otherwise. Is also a good option to not apply the handbrake when the rear rotors are ultra hot. RB