Rear arms without toe bolts

MattP725 · 04-09-2012, 07:49 PM

Just bought some BCs a week ago and some SPC rear arms from a forum member without toe bolts. Can I run the SPCs sans-toe bolts? How much does a mild drop affect toe? I'm not a huge fan of boring out the holes to begin with. I want to drop it just enough to fill the gaps with sport wheels and 15/20mm spacers (approx 1.5" I assume).

martin82 · 04-09-2012, 08:21 PM

Hmm I thought the rear arms are the toe adjustment, and the adjusting bolt is the camber....

MattP725 · 04-09-2012, 08:29 PM

Other way around I believe... the arm lengthens or shortens to adjust the camber in or out... the toe bolt up top adjusts the toe (obviously). The SPL camber arms don't even come with the toe bolts.

eddygp · 08-06-2012, 05:35 PM

Bump for an answer. Wondering if I can avoid elongating those holes. Did you end up installing toe bolts or were you able to get back to specs with the stock ones?

XLR8SN · 08-06-2012, 06:02 PM

I did both. I bought and installed the SPL camber arms, but I still needed the toe bolts even on a 1.0" drop.

Actually the toe bolts were more effective in getting the camber in spec versus the arms. If I went lower then then arms would be more useful.

If you are not too sure, try installing the arms first then see if you can get it in spec. If not, then install the bolts.

DR_ · 08-06-2012, 07:07 PM

I was able to get within the -2.2 camber spec with just the stock adjustment bolts. Before adjustment I was -2.3 LR and -2.6 RR and after adjustment I had -2.1 both RL and RR.

eddygp · 08-06-2012, 07:08 PM

Cool, thanks for the info

. I'll try the camber arms first and see if that works.

eddygp · 08-06-2012, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DR_

I was able to get within the -2.2 camber spec with just the stock adjustment bolts. Before adjustment I was -2.3 LR and -2.6 RR and after adjustment I had -2.1 both RL and RR.

How was your toe with the stock bolts?

DR_ · 08-06-2012, 08:55 PM

spec is .08° to .21°
LR before .26° after .11°
RR before .35° after .12°

04-09-2012, 07:49 PM	#1 (permalink)
MattP725 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2011 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 1,904 Drives: 2010 40th Rep Power: 16	Rear arms without toe bolts Just bought some BCs a week ago and some SPC rear arms from a forum member without toe bolts. Can I run the SPCs sans-toe bolts? How much does a mild drop affect toe? I'm not a huge fan of boring out the holes to begin with. I want to drop it just enough to fill the gaps with sport wheels and 15/20mm spacers (approx 1.5" I assume).

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04-09-2012, 08:21 PM	#2 (permalink)
martin82 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: los angeles Posts: 2,636 Drives: 12 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 19	Hmm I thought the rear arms are the toe adjustment, and the adjusting bolt is the camber....

04-09-2012, 08:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
MattP725 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2011 Location: Toms River, NJ Posts: 1,904 Drives: 2010 40th Rep Power: 16	Other way around I believe... the arm lengthens or shortens to adjust the camber in or out... the toe bolt up top adjusts the toe (obviously). The SPL camber arms don't even come with the toe bolts.

08-06-2012, 05:35 PM	#4 (permalink)
eddygp Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 76 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370Z Rep Power: 15	Bump for an answer. Wondering if I can avoid elongating those holes. Did you end up installing toe bolts or were you able to get back to specs with the stock ones?

08-06-2012, 06:02 PM	#5 (permalink)
XLR8SN Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Hawaii Posts: 363 Drives: Nissan Rep Power: 15	I did both. I bought and installed the SPL camber arms, but I still needed the toe bolts even on a 1.0" drop. Actually the toe bolts were more effective in getting the camber in spec versus the arms. If I went lower then then arms would be more useful. If you are not too sure, try installing the arms first then see if you can get it in spec. If not, then install the bolts.

08-06-2012, 07:07 PM	#6 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 16	I was able to get within the -2.2 camber spec with just the stock adjustment bolts. Before adjustment I was -2.3 LR and -2.6 RR and after adjustment I had -2.1 both RL and RR.

08-06-2012, 07:08 PM	#7 (permalink)
eddygp Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: NorCal Posts: 76 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370Z Rep Power: 15	Cool, thanks for the info . I'll try the camber arms first and see if that works.

08-06-2012, 08:55 PM	#9 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 16	spec is .08° to .21° LR before .26° after .11° RR before .35° after .12°