Stillen. Make one for the nismo lol. Pretty or not I'll buy it. Function > form. And I doubt nismo owners are going to change the bumper to stillen after paying extra for the pretty body kit lol :)

and if they do I'll buy their nismo bumper lol

Can someone that orders it post a pic from the front of the car? I'd like to see what the ducts look like on the outside.

Great job Stillen!

The kit looks exactly as I imagined it right down to the hose routing. I completely agree with the use of stainless vs a painted lower grade steel especially with something that shims in behind the wheel bearing.

I look forward to getting this one track tested!

For the Nismo folk, it can be done, it will just take one of you to get creative. Just check the racing catalogs and buy the brake duct that looks like it will be the easiest to mount. Figure out how to attach it to the Nismo fascia and you are good to go!

I think these ducts would look good on the nismo bumper

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/w...-s2000duct.jpg

Or something along the lines of the nismo RC

:iagree: Someone can probably photoshop it in

Can't wait to get my kit. I should be able to put it on next weekend. If it gets sent out when they said. But no biggie. The guys at Stillen were a pleasure to talk to.

Ron is just all over it. i was reading about introducing vents in the NISMO bumper. I'll have to take a look at yours when you are don Ron!

link to thread? :tup:

Lol I'm not doing this.. yet

Ron, that looks similar to what my engineers and I drew up yesterday. We still have the Nismo BRE 370Z here so we'll start playing with this soon. We may need a production car if there is a local one willing to stop by for a few hours one day? The BRE 370 did not start its life as a Nismo so I'll want to make sure that whatever we do will work on a truly production car.

that is awesome, I would volunteer for it but I'm not local :( Keep us posted! Pics of said drawing? :D

this price seems high to me. you get some bent (simple bends) sheet metal and orange hose. this would be pretty easy to duplicate in a metal shop/home shop with just a manual hand brake and a wire feed welder. cool product, great job, but the price point seems a little too much. $100-$150 seems more like it.

I'd very much like it to be free, but that's just not reality. In this case, the whole is equal to more than the sum of the parts. For over 3 years, no one has come out with a brake cooling kit for this car. The simple matter of fact is that making the replacement splash guard that mounts on the hub and has a hose flange isn't so straight forward. If you can do it yourself, go for it. Until some other companies come out with similar kits, Stillen can charge whatever they like. $295 is reasonable for anyone that truly needs it. Would I like it to be $150? Absolutely, and I would have ordered already. For now, I'll ponder it a while longer and maybe order in a month or two if I think I really need it.

^ +1 to that... you will spend a lot more doing a DIY that works to the same effect given the need for custom brackets etc, and may end up short of the temp benefit of the Stillen setup

Something else to think about... if you cook your rotors and they crack or warp, how much will that cost? If your brakes fade and you end up in a tire wall or worse, how much will that cost? I've done both, better for everyone else to avoid :)

Found this

I'm not sure how big these things are.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1332642099

I think people with the Z1 oil cooler set up might have to re-run their oil lines on the passenger side if you want to install this brake cooling kit. I looked today and the area where the brake cooler hose runs from the facia into the wheel well, that's where you have to take out the plastic plate, is exactly the same location where the oil line runfor the Z1 oil cooler set up.

I have the Z1 oilcooler kit installed and I'm interested in the Stillen brake cooler kit, but I'll take some time to figure this one out before I hit "order" on the stillen site...

Use something like the NISMO RC ducts, and I'll buy the kit.

The cost is definitely more than the sum of the parts. This is a low quantity production unit, they are only going to sell one brake duct kit for every 100 cold air intakes so it only makes sense that the price is a little higher so they can re-coup the engineering costs. If you had a race shop custom engineer this for you it would be $1000, with 90% of the cost being time.

After speaking to the new brake manager Jim last August I strongly encouraged him to get the product off the back burner and into production as there was no one filling the need. I'm very happy that they did and I'll gladly pay the $300 for the kit. At the time I would have gladly paid $200 for the 2 hub backing plates and built the rest myself!

Another option for the Nismo folks is to use NACA style scoops attached to the under tray. You won't get quite as much airflow as it is a low pressure zone compared to the front fascia but it is better than nothing.

NACA Ducts - Large, Black NACA Duct

In regards to some posts above: I've torn down all of this front area and spent hours thinking through how I would design a "good" brake duct kit for this car. It's hard, and so I still don't have ducting all the way to the rotors. Props to Stillen for releasing something. I ordered a set through Z1 yesterday, so I'll get to play with it soon.

Stillen: I didn't see anything in the product literature indicating the diameter of the tube and the end fittings. The stuff I've been working with to date has been 2.5 inch, but that's part of the reason I never reached the hub, it seems impossible to get a 2.5 opening to the inside there without closing off a chunk of it, and 2.5 inch hose doesn't play well in the wheel well either. Is this kit 2 inch, or even 1.5?

My kit will be here Saturday. But I won't be able to get to it till next weekend.

Three things: (1) As others have asked for, please post pics of front of Z after install. Interested to see what the round inlets look like from the front. (2) Sounds like this may not work with a bunch of the oil cooler kits that sit in the area in front of the wheel well. (3) Is there any concern with water making it's way through the piping and splashing the back of the rotor, which may actually negatively affect braking in wet conditions?

Well, I don't have their kit in hand, but based on my homebrew setup currently (2.5" ducts from the fangs using Modshack's connection method, just dumping into the wheel well area), my guesses are:

(1) You probably do want to paint the front fang tubes. It's easy to do, just shoot them with flat black spraypaint meant for bbq grills before installation, so they're not shiny when you see them end-on (although you have to be pretty short to notice anyways).

(2) For oil cooler kits in front of the radiator, it should be a non-issue. Worst case you do a little messing around with hose routing. For the ones mounted off on the side in front of the wheel well... not sure tbh. It seems like you'd still be able to route this though, as it doesn't come through the *front* of the wheel well. Might just be a little tight in one spot?

(3) I don't think there's any concern about water, so long as you don't jam a garden hose into the fangs. It's a long and convoluted path, and what little gets through it would just vaporize on the brake side IMHO. Keep in mind your rotors are always getting wet in the rain anways, the outside is completely exposed through the wheel :)

We went with 2" tubing. This was the largest tubing we could fit without requiring modifications to the chassis/body work when routing.

1) You pretty much can't see the inlets unless you're looking directly at them or trying to find them. Keep in mind they're only about 6" off the ground. I see our red 370Z which has been fitted with them and I don't even notice it when I walk by the car every day.
2) I don't see why this won't work with any aftermarket oil cooler. It may take a little creativity on hose routing but there is no reason it won't still work.
3) There is absolutely no concern about water and/or debris getting into the system. As Wstar mentioned, these go through a lot of bends and any debris or water will be stopped well up the line. Even if water were to somehow make it all the way back to the hub, it would not be a large enough volume to cause any issues.

Pics or BS :stirthepot:

Thanks for your answers! Also, for those of us close to Stillen, how much to have you guys throw them on? I don't like bumper removal.

These only work with aftermarket rotors with directional air flow correct?
Just curious, what are the principle differences between this kit and the DIY brake cooling project some of us do? See: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ing-ducts.html
I was hoping for something that doesn't utilize the fang vents as I was hoping to duct air into my Gen 3's from there. Can't get a Stillen fascia either because I already bought a Stillen splitter + canards..

Not to derail, but bumper removal is pretty easy on our cars. I've done it twice now with no ill effects. It's a two person job, but only because you want to be careful when carrying it away from the vehicle and gently resting it somewhere.

I feel the Stillen kit is nicer than the DIY way. Which the DIY is nice and nothing really wrong with it. I just like the flanges that come with the Stillen due to they mount directy to the bumper and hub in a solid manner.

So far as using the vents for the G3's I wouldn't worry so much about that for the G3's are pretty efficient as is. You might not like the looks but you could buy duct inserts that can be placed directly in front of the filters. Unless rain is an issue.

As far as directional rotors they will benefit more. Not sure how efficient they are with a solid blank rotor.

I tried clicking the link to the DIY kit but it did not work for me. I'll post for now on some of your questions and if I can find the DIY kit in a search, I'll come back and respond.

These will work regardless of what rotor you choose. Every rotor wants to be cooled from the inside out. If you ever see a race car with ducting on the outside of the caliper, that is to cool the caliper. You always want to direct the air to the inside of the rotor.

Installation is about $400.00. However, if you are getting a cooler or intakes or something else where the fascia needs to come off would be the time to do it as that in itself is a good amount of the labor.

IMHO, having pored over our DIY options for many months, I'd say the big thing the Stillen kit gives us is the replacement dust shield that's nicely machined with an optimal attachment for the hose. The rest isn't that hard to DIY, but Stillen's dust shields are $$.

I'm on a layover in Orange county tonite and will be stopping by to look at it in person in the morning to gain a little insight before I do my install. My kit arrived today at my house.

Any good DIYs? $400 for install is steep.

Please take pics from the front of the car!

Stillen provides you with installation instructions, so there's your DIY :)

I looked at them, but don't recall detailed instructions on removing the bumper ... but then I am a skimmer.

Bumper removal is in the OEM manual, but here is a DIY: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-removal.html

you don't remove the bumper. just the undertray. You can remove it to mount the duct mounting flanges, but you connect the hose to those while they are on the car.

There really wasn't much to take a picture of. Just the ducts on the stillen fascia. They had removed the hoses unfortunately, and Kyle wasn't aware of that before I went. However, he did show me where to route them and some other stuff they have going on, so it was still a productive visit.

Thanks for the link. Pics are very helpful. That does look reasonably easy. For whatever reason, I have never liked removing body panels.

Mike- Thanks again for stopping by today. I found out the test parts were taken off the car to build the manufacturing fixtures. I'm having the kit put back on next week.

The installation isn't actually difficult, it's just time consuming. $400.00 for the install is basically 4 hours of work. If we were to perform the installation, we would pull the fascia because it gives you more room to work. Plus, my guys can have these fascias off in about 15 minutes, so it only makes sense for us to do it this way. The time consuming part is the disassembly of the brakes/hubs and verifying alignment of the backing plate and wheel speed sensors. Running and trimming hoses etc. It's something that just about anyone can do in their driveway, but be prepared to spend a bit of time making sure everything is routed properly and fastened securely.