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Braking problem - malfunctioning ABS

That sounds good. The expensive fluid won't lower temps as you know, but will have a higher b.p. So, you still may have an ABS sensor that gets excessively hot,

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Old 05-10-2010, 10:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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That sounds good.

The expensive fluid won't lower temps as you know, but will have a higher b.p. So, you still may have an ABS sensor that gets excessively hot, and as you say, you will only be able to rule out fluid boiling as an individual cause.

Where are you pointing the air if not at the inside of the rotors? How far away is the outlet? Perhaps if you can point them towards the ABS sensor we can test the theory of sensor overheating as a cause.

The other one we need to test is differential wheel spin...


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Originally Posted by ResIpsa View Post
After re-reading the Car and Driver article I am preparing a test to determine if it is boiling brake fluid that might be confusing the abs system.

On Friday I will be doing a track day at the Summit Point main circuit. Last time I ran Porterfield R4 full race compound with ATE super blue fluid and I experienced ice mode three times. I have made three changes to my brake system.

1. Castrol SRF brake fluid (at $80 per liter).
2. CarboTech XP10 pads up front and XP8 in the rear.
3. Home made brake cooling ducts from the fang inlets (however, they are not directly connected to the inside of the rotor).

I'll let you know how it goes on Saturday.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travisjb View Post
That sounds good.

The expensive fluid won't lower temps as you know, but will have a higher b.p. So, you still may have an ABS sensor that gets excessively hot, and as you say, you will only be able to rule out fluid boiling as an individual cause.

Where are you pointing the air if not at the inside of the rotors? How far away is the outlet? Perhaps if you can point them towards the ABS sensor we can test the theory of sensor overheating as a cause.

The other one we need to test is differential wheel spin...
The ducts are pointing (as best I could) to directly under the brake caliper. I connected the end of the tubing to the lower part of the shock absorber. I would guess about 4 to 6 inches from the rotor. The main problem is the shape of our front spindle. It really blocks access to the inside of the rotor. In hindsight, I should have cut off the entire dust shield but I don't have a proper sheet metal shear (and I was getting tired).

I should have taken some pictures but I was not all that anxious to display my ghetto-cooling ducts. And it did take some cutting of the inside fender cover...


Keep in mind that I was retrofitting my fang ram air setup and this limited the length of my brake tubing.
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