With the sport 19" Rays


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Well, IMO, 15s on the front won't be enough if you run the Bridgestone 050As. Only MY opinion.
There are a bunch of folks here who'll tell you 20s on the rear aren't enough, but that's what I went with. I wanted the look on the front to be a close match to that of the rear and wanted to be flush on the rear. No poke.
I sometimes think I could have gone with 25s on the rear but then I'd want 25s on the front. I was worried that I would have rubbing issues if I did that.


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Is there any disadvantage to having the same size spacers in the front and the back? Your ride looks really nice I might go with the 20/20 lol no rubbing?


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I can't answer that for you. Maybe someone else is able.

No rubbing on the front on mine at all. I also can't remember the last time I scraped anything on the underside due to the drop of the Swifts. I do take care over things that I think might be an issue, but I rarely drag anything. Better than I ever expected it to be. I thought I'd be hitting something everywhere I went. The ride on Swifts is so superior to the ride on the stock springs. Best mod I've done. (it is the only mod I've done, however)
You won't look back.

104

I've been looking at some of the other pics you posted in other threads too, I'm really feelin the 20s in the front now lol, they look really nice. I'm definitely really excited about this! I am a little worried about my FI exhaust cans, I'll just have to be extra careful...


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I'm still running the stock exhaust so I can't comment there.

The 20s up front were a no brainer for me. Picking the rears were what beat me up. I bought a single set of the 20s first and tried them on the rear to see if I liked them. I did, so I bought a second pair.
So, if you're thinking about 20s up front now and can't make your mind up around the rears, you might try doing what I did. Buy ONE pair and try them out. I made sure I had an alignment done first though. I didn't want any change in the camber later to mess with my test. The key is you get what you know you want for sure for two wheels. Once you mount them, you can't return them.


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Cool cool but I think after seeing some pics of the 25s in the rear I've really decided that 20s are cool, I think they stick out a little too much with the 25s. So really I guess I'll be goin with 20s all around! Haha it's nice being able to see pics for sure and hear opinions, I really appreciate it!


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:tup:

Hey guys I placed my order with Kamispeed, but I ordered the stud replacement spacers. 20mm all around. Is that cool?? Or should I have gotten bolt ons? Will it still be cool? I do know it will be more work to install.


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They will both work just the same. Stud replacement is more safe technically

Got my swift springs, SPL rear camber arms, and 20mm HR spacers all around installed yesterday!!! Very excited with how it turned out!! http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...6b6a802126.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...ee08368174.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...c6f6f0701a.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...4e8db54a6b.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...a919a66a79.jpg


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Looks good & I know it handles even better ;)

You sure are right when you say it's a tough call. Here's my thought process.

The 20 mm spacers in front are the right call for the Sport wheels. I have Swift springs, and the tires don't rub at all, even at full lock at parking lot speeds. Visually, it seems that the wheels could be pushed out a bit more, and you may think that 25 mm spacers will work, but I think that that particular setup may introduce some rubbing, if only in extreme circumstances. Just a guess.

As for the back, you are correct when you say the tires might make all the difference. The OEM Bridgestone RE050 (275/35/19), according to the specs, has a tread width of 10.2", which is wider than the Michelin Pilot Super Sport (10.0"), the Bridgestone RE-71R (10.0"), the Bridgestone RE760 (9.8"), and the Bridgestone S-04 (9.2")(!), but narrower than the Continental ExtremeContact DW (10.4"), just to name a few of the popular replacement tires. If you get wider tires, then the tread width of those will certainly be wider than all the tires listed here.

I currently have 25 mm spacers in back on the OEM wheels and tires, and the tire does stick out about a quarter to a third of an inch from the body (I have -1.5 degrees of rear camber). The OEM tires have a very pronounced rim protector, which makes the sidewall appear more "angular," and this is what causes most of the poke. The lip of the wheel, to my eyes, appears to be flush with the body.

In my opinion, using 25 mm spacers with OEM rear tires is borderline acceptable; however, thinking into the future, when I replace the OEM tires, I will almost certainly choose an OEM size tire that has a narrower tread width and a more upright sidewall (Pilot SS or S-04). I think those tires will look much better with the 25 mm spacers than the OEM tires do. I realize we're talking fractions of an inch here, but you can visually detect those differences.

Swift spec R springs, Koni yellows, and spacers (20 mm F, 25 mm R)


http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...21031-0000.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...21031-0001.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...21031-0002.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...21031-0003.jpg



If anyone is wondering, alignment is set with -1.65*camber in front, -2.38* in rear (thanks, in part, to SPC adjustable rear camber arms), and +.1* toe all around.

Looking good! Twins! (except I have 20mm all the way around)

Just got my Z back after installing swifts and SPC rear camber arms and toe bolts. It feels softer than the nismo springs and its really touchy in the rear on the highway. I know I will need an alignment and im pretty sure I have crazy neg camber right now. Hopefully its just the camber but not really liking how much softer the feel is. Anyways will post pics and thoughts in a week after springs have settled and alignment is done.

I agree. I kept my Swifts for about a month before I replaced them with coilovers. They just felt too squishy.

So now that its lowered is 20mm perfect all the way around, or do your feel 25 rear and 20 front would have been a more flush fill?

The touchiness on the highway is due to the alignment / toe settings. Once that is fixed it will be much better. As far as the springs feeling softer. Swift springs material they use may make the ride "feel softer" but the spring rate is true. They design their springs to be compliant for everyday drivers but also perform well in the twisties.

If you want your car to feel stiffer, than you need to get coilovers like sandersd did.

The springs feel less firm because they are progressively wound -- they firm up under load (i.e., higher speeds). The Nismos are the same firmness all the time, so harsher in slow driving by comparison.

Be careful -- too much toe can make the car handle VERY unpredictably. If the car feels twitchy, I'd go back and have them at least dial in the toe to about zero now, and then re-align/adjust after it settles.

Its dangerous to drive around with too much toe.

Yea ur right I noticed how much more squishy they were compared to the nismo springs. I typically drive slow in parking lots and over bumps and daily driving. The rear toe was crazy out of spec. The shop literally just slapped them on. It's all good now though I drove cautious until the alignment. The alignment was a night and day difference, feels alot better now.

I got the springs I've just never put em on. Afraid of scraping my exhaust and stuff like that


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I think it could've come out a little more in the back but I think it might've felt like it stuck out too much toward the bottom and it would've bugged me a lot, so I I'd do it again lol. Also I have fast intentions exhaust which hangs super low in the back, but I've been ok so far going in and out of driveways, parking lots, and over speed bumps. You should go for it since you have the springs already!!


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:iagree:

Yep :iagree:

Is it necessary to buy spacers? I only need the camber adjusters right

Is it safe to drive this set up in the rain? Hadn't thought about that before and haven't had to drive in the rain yet since I got lowered haha but is it harder to drive in the rain with the negative camber versus stock?


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Don't think you need to buy spacers. Only if you want the flush look, which looks a lot nicer


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You don't even need camber arms. I've had my Swifts for about two years and after I removed my OEM wheels, the tire wear was almost even. Then again, Guam has a 35 mph speed limit :ugh2:. Spacers? I would definitely get 20mm in the front and 25mm in the rear if you're on OEM Rays for a more aggressive look.

Swift springs are great, but after I installed aftermarket wheels, the tire-to-fender gap was much more noticeable. In fact, my 350Z on conservative Eibach Pro Kit springs looks lower than what it really is next to my 370Z on Swift springs. I purchased Ark GT-S springs but haven't installed them yet.

For reference:
http://i1043.photobucket.com/albums/...scsdaavn1.jpeg

35 mph! That sucks.

So are these springs lower than tein s techs?

What are the specs on tein s?

Iirc, Swifts lower the car 1.2'' front & 1'' rear

Mine
 

I consider this one of the best mods ive done to my Z and it doesn't hurt that they are inexpensive :) I couldn't be happier with the ride quality and stance I got I would highly recommend these springs

Help me out guys, what exactly do i need for rear camber adjustments. SPL has the rear arms, links, lock out kit, toe arms, toe bolts. Which items for sure do i need to buy. Do i buy the arms and lock out kit or toe arms and camber arms. Im a little confused. Thanks

Well done!

Drop
 

If you're not going to coilovers you'll maybe only want the camber arms, lockout kit and toe bolts. The lockout kit is not a necessity and you might just get away with the stock toe bolts depending on your drop. Arms are pretty much a given, except there are a lot of folks here who are quite content not having gone with them either.
My own take on it was, if I was going to do it, I was going to go all in. I went with the SPL camber arms, a lockout kit and toe bolts when I went to Swifts.
That's the most you're going to need.

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That explains alot, thanks😀Arms/lockOut/bolts/Swift . So expensive just to drop 1in but worth it😀

How do these specs look? Is the toe ok? Also they said the right front was as good as they good get it without having camber arms up there, which is understandable. I have swift springs, spacers, toe bolts, rear camber arms, and an eccentric lockout kit. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12...f6e59c5fc6.jpg


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I think I'm sold on getting a set of these..