How many miles since you have been driving around with -1.9

I ask b/c I just started driving and I have -1.7

5K

I thought you had a complete set after you picked up my 20mm's. Hit up Josh@Stillen pm him, he is always on this forum.

Sigh.....me too I have mine scheduled with my installer for next Sat. It should work out as I am pulling the trigger on some RE-11 tonight hopefully just trying to hook up the deal locally at Tognotti's thru a friend. Hopefully better price than Tire Rack's price @ $1,239 shipped. I can negotiate as I will be buying 8 tires (for 2 cars).

They were the only things that got my camber back in a decent range for the settings I was looking for. I believe I posted here previously what my rears were set to. I want to say they were set to -1.00. Again it's probably on the far end of OEM spec. It's a personnel preference on what camber setting you are looking for SO NOT EVERYONE MAY NEED TOE BOLTS. It depends on the setup you are looking for.

I cannot remember (I have the alignment sheet at home) and I know I said for the fronts I have -1.5 and -1.6 although it might be -1.4 and -1.3 with a difference of 0.3 between front and rear is what I was trying to achieve. Which would put my rears at -1.00 and -1.00.

I think that is what mine were with the Eibachs which I wanted more of a 0.3 difference between Fr and Rr so I had to go with the TOE Bolts.

REAR CAMBER KITS CAN BE ORDERED WITH OR WITH OUT TOE BOLTS. I have always gone with the TOE bolts in my kit when ordering just in case I need them. Separately the TOE BOLTS run about $75. But ordering with the KIT there is a big savings. Nick@THMotorsports can hook up anyone needing Camber Kits with or without toe bolts. :tup: Your car looks great!!

KamiSpeed also has SPC products!

Yep, I purchased them from Josh a couple of days ago. I was going to wait for the DRM's but I could not wait any longer. So I pulled the trigger on the DRS's =). Should be here soon. Thanks again Zforce!

You got some top notch quality spacers going with H&R and actually you are probably better off with the DSR's (stud replacement) as in less lug nuts to tighten down...IMO. Glad you were able to pick up my last set. When you get everything installed and aligned post up some pics and especially the alignment print out sheet. :tiphat:

You'll be fine with those camber levels, especially if you hit the twisties from time to time. Factory specs have our tires way too upright for performance.

That cool I did my own alignment and was weary about too much - camber I put the front @-1.3 and the rear @-1.7 and yes here in Georgia we have plenty of twisty roads in the north mountains.:tup:

To those of you who have had Swifts installed for a while now, has the ride gotten any harsher now that the springs have settled in? I'm about to order mine now.

To TOE or Not To TOE
 

Update: I found my alignment printout out sheet and still have no access to scanner to post up, but here are the specs on the alignment before and after and with toe bolts and without. Again these are from my Eibach springs but it should give everyone an idea as to if they need a rear camber kit and/or upper control arms. It's true that Swift has a lower drop than Eibach and I will post up my alignment specs once the Swift springs are installed. So lets dive in with some numbers.

Fist off I want to point out that I was NOT wanting to get the alignment into to happy range of OEM as I was going with a certain setup that will maximize handeling. I have about 3-5k on the Eibachs with this alignment and very happy with handeling. I will be shooting for the same range with Swift. I am at the far end of the spectrum range but still within OEM specs, just not in the middle range.


Eibach springs
Rear Camber Arms NO TOE BOLT


Eibach drop is 0.9 Front and 0.8 Rear
compared to
Swift drop is 1.2 Front and 1.0 Rear.

Front OEM spec is 0.1 to -1.4

Fronts BEFORE
-1.2 & -1.5
Fronts AFTER
-1.2 & -1.4

Rear OEM spec is -1.2 to -2.2

Rear BEFORE
-2.8 & -2.0
Rear AFTER
-1.9 & -1.7

OEM spec for TOE
1.0 to 2.7

REAR TOE AFTER
1.3 & 1.2


The TOE BOLT WILL NOT BE NEEDED if you want camber to be within OEM spec and more towards one end of the range.

If you want the rear camber to be more close to ZERO (or anything more positive than -1.9) then you WILL NEED the TOE BOLT.


For my setup I wanted the rear camber to be within 0.3 difference from the fronts. For example the fronts set to -1.3 then rears will be set to -1.0 always wanting to more negative camber in the fronts than the rears.



Here are the numbers WITH TOE BOLT INSTALLED.


Front BEFORE
-1.3 & -1.6
Front AFTER
-1.3 & -1.6



Rear BEFORE
-1.9 &-1.8
Rear AFTER
-1.1 & -1.0

TOE Rear BEFORE
1.3 & 1.2
Toe Rear AFTER
1.9 & 1.5

With the toe bolt installed it opened up a more desirable camber range towards -0.0 that without the toe bolt we were stuck at -1.8 and could not get anymore positive camber (like -1.0).

Even though these alignment specs are from Eibach springs, it will prove that the rears are not far off (quess-timate) from Swifts alignment specs since there is only a -0.2 difference in drop from Eibach and Swift. This proves that most users will have the same results on the rear settings mentioned above and will have a choice depending on what rear camber setting they are trying to achieve.

Desired rear camber setting:

To stay within the mid range of OEM = NO TOE BOLT
To adjust down to the -1.0 range = NEED TOE BOLT

As far as the front setting mentioned above, these are not going to be same for this comparision because there is a 0.3 difference between Eibach and Swift. I cannot comment on this comparsion and only hope the Swifts do not set the negative camber out of the OEM range. As more posts come in from users we will be able to get a better idea.

Eibach drop = 0.9
Swift drop = 1.2

Now that you have read this lengthy post I have to admit, I wrote this as a reminder to myself for when and I will, loose the original alignment spec printout. Btw: the alignment rack used is a HUNTER brand.

If it helped any users, then I did not waste any cyberspace.

Nope, rides just the same as the first time I drove it. If anything, they might even get slightly more compliant as they have settled in, but nothing I could feel to be honest.

Just had my installed at corner3garage and I haven't driven around much yet (still waiting for springs to settle and to do an alignment) but I can guarantee that the springs do bounce a bit more over slight bumps. Again still waiting for the springs to adjust to its new setting. Just dont want to give people the wrong impression that it feels just like stock.

I wish that someone was installing my springs for me while I'm London.
Might be a few weeks of that box of springs on my kitchen table ' tip I get 'round to doing the install.

Installed H&R drs series spacers today. 15mm front/ 20mm rear. Probably could have went with 20/25 with the swift drop but came out pretty good. Now for an alignment!
http://www.the370z.com/members/tauru...31807-hr12.jpg Drop with spacers

http://www.the370z.com/members/tauru...e31808-hr7.jpg Rear 20mm

http://www.the370z.com/members/tauru...e31809-hr6.jpg Front 15mm

http://www.the370z.com/members/tauru...103-swift2.jpg Swift springs w/o spacers

http://www.the370z.com/members/tauru...ure25646-a.jpg Stock

Another happy Swift customer, along with H&Rs

http://www.the370z.com/members/kielb...-spacers-1.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kielb...-spacers-2.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/kielb...-spacers-3.jpg