The black color in your brake fluid is primarily rubber from normal seal wear or an indication of aluminum oxide from master cylinder or caliper wear or corrosion. The better brake fluids will hold these impurities in suspension, rather than be allowed to cause additional abrasive wear, which means they are dark when removed. There is nothing in brake fluid itself that will turn black with time or heat, although it can get darker "yellow" with extreme temperature use.

Chris

Installed FI oil cooler and Hotchkis front sway bar yesterday. Changed brake fluid with a cheap vacuum bleeder. Brakes had normal brake feel after each corner was done, but once I was done with the oil cooler installation I had to pump the brake pedal to be able to build pressure to stop car. Must have somehow gotten air in the system. I'll take it to the mechanic today to have it done.

Turns out there are bleeder valves on the inside and outside calipers.

Gonna change the brake fluid in my Z and G pretty soon, gonna try out the motive bleeder, I def haven't done anything like this before so excited to try it out. I haven't changed the fluid in my G at all yet and it's been about 5 years, I don't put toooooo many miles on them but still very embarrassing I never even thought about it before, I didn't know much about cars but I've been trying to learn a lot lately. Anyway, I don't track the car yet I just wanna change out the brake fluid for maintenance. So Motul 600 looks pretty expensive since I don't track, was wondering would valvoline synthetic brake fluid be acceptable? http://m.autozone.com/brake-and-powe...luid/33408_0_0 or should I just get oem fluid? Of course who knows how much oem would be I haven't even looked into it. Also would the high summer temp outside be bad while changing brake fluid or does not not matter unless it's real humid?


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I was gonna buy the valvoline dot 3-4 synthetic but they didn't have enough at NAPA but the guy told me that if the car doesn't require synthetic then it could be bad for the seals and brakes might go out blah blah blah. But I don't know of anywhere where it would say it is in fact ok to use synthetic I just know I read dot 3. It's cool to use synthetic in our cars though right?


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Synthetic is fine.
If we were driving a 70s Jaguar, it might be bad.
I hate going to ANY retail stores anymore.

Thanks! I was pretty sure it was fine but being told something like that is Lame


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What ever you do DO NOT mix silicone brake fluid with any other brake fluid. You'll be making jelly.

A lot on here use Motul synthetic, I put in Amsoil synthetic when I installed my new calipers.
There are quite a few good ones.


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Is the oem fluid silicone?


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Thank GOD no. You should use a good DOT4 fluid.

What are some good dot4s that aren't too expensive ?


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Motul 600. That's what most of us use. Check motorcycle shops for it. They might have it cheaper.

Alright thanks!



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Amsoil makes some damn good brake fluid. I run there fluids throughout my Z with the exception of the engine in which I use Redline.

Castrol SRF is my current choice.

See: https://www.castrol.com/en_au/austra...rf-racing.html

Check out the specs there

I've had boiling issues with the silicon fluid. Will never use it again. Motul RBF600 fan here... Highest wet boil point at a reasonable price.

Motul RBF 600 is what I use for my track days and for street duty it holds up very well to high temperatures. Moisture always eventually will build up in your brake fluid over time a good brake fluid flush is always a good idea a specially before your track events.

Castro SRF Racing brake fluid is even better than Motul 600 imho, but it is high dollar stuff. I get a full track season out it and it is just as good for clutch fluid.

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RBF-600 is good - daily and on track run well. I also replaced my clutch fluid with it in an attempt to stretch out my oem clutch slave... the dark fluid over time tells me its going to die a death of a thousand razors anyways.. so be it
Ive got a HS CSC and a new MC ready to drop in when my twin disk goes in ( when the turbos go in :) ) <---rant

Just get a brake fluid tester for 20 bucks to check it periodically...

On track, after rbf600, and carbotech brake pads and some federal 595 rs-rr tires, my weakest link was the "ice-mode" programming trying to kill me (until i figured out how to avoid triggering ice mode)

Daily, you will never know its in there.

I used to use a German fluid called ATE Super Blue in a Porsche I had years ago, however I believe that the D.O.T. has banned its use in the US now. I had a serious problem with boiling the fluid in my front brakes when driving fast and braking hard, which this fluid prevented. It was about twice the price of a typical premium brake fluid but worth it to me, as I didn't have to bleed the brakes so often after I started using it.

ATE Super Blue is illegal in the US because of it's color :rolleyes:

I still managed to boil the Super Blue fluid with some threshold braking maneuvers. Switched to Motul RBF600 and haven't look back since.

I used it in a Porsche that I had in the 90s to cure a problem with boiling brake fluid and it worked great. I had tried many other good fluids but would still wind up with a spongy brake pedal after braking from high speed. The ATE came in two colors, blue and amber, so it was easy to see when the old fluid was out when flushing the system.

As of TODAY... this thread is exactly 9 years old.

Have we covered everyone's brake fluid needs yet? :gtfo2:

• OEM = suck
• DOT 3 = suck
• DOT 4 = good
• SuperBlue is not sold in the USA
• ATE TYP 200 is superblue without dye
• Motul RBF600 is better
• Castrol SRF is the best

Don't mix any brake fluid besides 3 & 4.
Adding DOT 5 will mess your sh*t up.

</thread>

:iagree:

LMAO, AGREED!!!!

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So... .is there a recommended brake fluid? :wtf2: :stirthepot:

:shakes head:

:eekdance:

You forgot about 5 and 5.1. Don't confuse the two. 5 is silicone base and doesn't mix with 3, 4, and 5.1.

Changing to Motul 660 Today
 

I only track my TT Z

Yesterday at pocono raceway I lost brakes on the infield turns and had to downshift hard and pump breaks

This was on stock fluid after 6 runs of extremely hard breaking from 145 to 60 using carbotech brake pads slotted stop tech rotors. It was obvious I boiled the fluid.

Put 4 ways on got off of race line and gave everyone point by's until pit row. At speed this is probably the scariest thing in racing to any driver other than knowing imminent death. So point to make is spend the money and get the fluid if you are ever going to track your car.

I use Motul 5.1 :tup:

Car & Driver did the same thing back in 2008 on their first test drive and put the car into the wall :eekdance:

Get some proper brake fluid; even Motul 5.1 isn't really up to heavy track duty. Try Motul RBF600/660 or Castrol SRF or Torque RT700 for your needs.

Motul RBF 600 or 660

Castro SRF is probably the best and is the most expensive. I know experienced drives that run it for a couple of years or more. The stuff is awesome. Motul 600/660 and Endless 600/660 are also really good. Don't skimp on buying good brake fluid as you stated no brakes or soft brake can end badly.

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Is it true the GT-R uses DOT4 fluid and if so, will a dealership perform a brake flush and replace with it? I know it’s not a terrible DIY, but I’m probably going for an AT flush anyway, so was going to at least get a quote.

GT-R's do use Dot 4 fluid. Depending on the dealership. You just might just off the shelf Dot 4.

I am using liqui moly dot 4 and no issues so far.
Of course I changed the oil together with the brake lines.
Regarding brake-lines, I have got the Z1 (Premium Stainless Steel Brake Lines) and I am very satisfied.

So Motul RBF 600 on a daily street car, still overkill? I got a 2 pack for $32 and changed my fluid the other day. Should I go with 1 or 2 years in between changes and possibly switch to DOT 3?

The Motul is good. It's not over kill. The Dot 3 isn't enough. For a DD, the 2yr changes are ok.

If you are using Motul RBF 600 or 660 that is a race oriented brake fluid and will absorb moisture faster and will require to be changed out sooner. For a DD I would change out the brake fluid once a year or at the longest every two years. I would definitely research what brake fluids if you are asking these questions before making a selection on what brake fluid that would be best for your Z.

:iagree:

I prefer a 6 mon to 1 yr interval max for the RBF 600 fluid. Motul 5.1 is an excellent DD option, less expensive, and better suited for a 1-2 yr interval.