Z1 performance brake lines

EP370z

I have looked for info on this and couldn't find it so...
Tools needed for job.

Lug nut 1/2 socket (21mm is stock lug nut) with breaker bar
10mm box wrench or line wrench
12mm wrench or deep socket
14mm wrench
Hammer
Pliers
Brake fluid dot 3 or higher

Optional tools. brake fluid catch can for old fluid or bleeding process. And easier clean up.

Power bleeder. For bleeding brake with nobody in car.

First put car on jack stands or lift remove tires
Next I broke loose all brake line connections to the spring clip to caliper with 10mm open end wrench or line wrench. Then snugged back up just to make sure all were free and didn't need special attention like seized connections.

Once I was sure all was good I then started to remove old lines from front. Brackets thats on strut that hold old line on and bracket on spindle and strut are 12mm. I removed the bracket on spindle and used one of the bolts to anchor down new line to spindle. Also reused bracket on strut. With Pliers remove spring clip from body and remove old line.

Place new line in body mount and install spring clip I used a hammer till clip was flush with body mount

Then cleaned surface of caliper where banjo bolt washer will seal. Check for any pits or high spots.
When ready put a brass washer on banjo bolt feed it threw line then another brass washer between line and caliper.
Thread banjo bolt BUT LEAVE IT LOOSE FOR NOW. When both front sides are done turn car on and by hand on caliper push spindle from lock to lock making sure there in enough slack in brake lines. Then tighten up banjo bolts with 14mm socket. I torqued to 18lbs.

Back side is easiest just remove old line and bracket from caliper and from body mount. There is no mount for back beside frame mount and do same with banjo bolt as front but you can tighten down as there is no need to check for slack in line.

Side note if bleeder is missing cap. Remove bleeder and check if it's clear of blockage. I used and air compressor with blow gun. But can also use brake cleaner or compressed air in can to clear it out. If using a liquid spray spray away from face or cover with towel.

For next step
DF= driver side front
PF= passenger side front
DR= driver side rear
PR= passenger side rear

Now fill brake master cylinder with brake fluid dot 3 or higher. I used Motul 5.1 on my car. Start with PR out side bleeder break it loose one full turn. Let it sit till fluid starts to come out of bleeder. dont touch brake peddle it will take about 5-10 mins for fluid to get caliper. Then close (thighen) bleeder. Then do inboard bleeder same way.

Repeat this step in this order PR, DR, PF, DF,

When all calipers are filled and bleeders closed. With someone in car start car and press peddle 10 times and hold. Start bleeding PR outside bleeder by barely cracking open bleeder. Open too much can "spray" brake fluid and if it gets on paint it could stain paint. Close bleeder and ask person in car to slowly pump brake peddle 10 times and hold. Break inside bleeder once peddle is to the floor and holding. Close bleeder. Then check brake fluid container on master cylinder keep it above minimum level at all times while doing this procedure. When you have done all 4 calipers in order from PR, DR, PF, DF. check peddle height with engine off pump brake peddle to see if it's firm. If its spongy repeat bleeding process. Till firm peddle.

Once done clean up mess with absorbent pads, towels, or kitty litter reinstall bleeder covers and wheel. Then lower car to the ground too torque wheels to spec. When done check brakes before blasting off into the sunset by backing car up slowly. Then hit brakes to check if there working. Pads should be grabbing about or less then a inch pressed brake peddle. I have pictures of my routing of new performance lines I'll post later.

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2014 Nismo #158
K&N, HKS, 1320 Test pipes, Ecutek tune by Dynosty, Window tint 35% all around,Zspeed belly pan