Sounds good. As for the Enkei's are you referring to the rpf1's?

For now I'm just putting my foot in the water and I guess I don't need that extreme camber settings. Down the line I will look into more if I become a dedicated track junkie, but now I am just looking at maybe 2-3 sessions per year. I just want to be able to have the adjustability settings available so the car can run properly with coilovers.

So far I have a cusco front sway bar. Pads, lines, and fluids will be coming soon. Oil cooler has been sitting in my garage for almost a year :'(

Thank you for all your input. I learned a lot in the past hour lol. I should have turned to this forum to learn sooner. I've been asking my friends who are mostly Subaru guys and they have been telling me different things.

:tup: I'm still good. At least I don't have to put a broom stick up my a$$ to push it out to take a leak yet. :eek:

I'm no wear near an expert like my buddy Rusty and a bunch of others on here. Read the thread Rusty linked you as it has a bunch of great stuff. This was my first year tracking and I learned a ton by doing and tearing $hit up. It is a rush and I can't get enough right now. Good luck and keep asking questions!

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Subi's need a different set-up because they are all wheel drive. What works on them, for the most part will not work on the Z. But the basic's are the same.

I've been tracking my Nismo for about 5 years now. This rabbit hole that you are about to go down into get $$$$ the deeper you get. But it's fun as helll! :driving:

Yeah & Don't forget you got more than 2x the factory RWHP/TQ than a stock Z!

I might lose him on the straight. But I'll still pass him on the brakes.:eek: :rofl2:

he's braking stuff while running all out in the marbles... :)

I do have a set of coilovers on the way (greddy x kw) so I still want to make sure I can get the allignment setup properly at the very least. On one the threads that was linked it said I will also need lower control arms for the front. Would it really be necessary for now? Or will I be able to survive with front and rear control arms + lockout eccentric?

This is exciting and expensive so I wanna just go in to explore this new realm without having my bank account punch me in the face overnight

You'll need upper control arms, not lower for the front. Depending on how low you go with the new coil-overs. As to what is needed for the rear. You might need only toe bolts. But going farther. Camber arms.

Have you tried a set of extremes on this car, or any car yet? Before you install any suspension piece, its best you explore the limits of grip in factory settings first.

There are several benefits to doing this even with the standard size tires, before going crazy with alignment changes and larger wheel/tire sizes.

For one. Most of the extremes have larger tread blocks, which not only establish a higher level of contact patch for the same size, but wear in a much more uniform fashion. With this you can clearly gauge how much and where the tires are wearing most. There is no point of adding additional camber if you can't accurately use all of the available rubber on standard sizes.

In motorcycle terms, you've probably heard this banter called "chicken strips" on the tires. Similar lack of wear lines can be established on normal car tires. gauging these wear lines give you an idea of how the camber is effecting tire contact patch and also how much steering input you are putting in and where in relations to corner loads and throttle modulation.

Another form of measurement you'd should start implementing immediately if you don't already, is measuring tire pressures and heat margins across the tires. A cheap harbor freight of homedepot infrared gun can gauge heat across the tire accurate enough to tell you how much heat you are balancing across the tread. In these summer conditions you may find it easy to go from a cold 35psi to hot 41 psi in a relatively short spirited run, but getting temps up in colder conditions is equally important.

For the sake of understanding what you are feeling, its good to also randomly test different tire pressures so you know what overinflated tires feel like compared to under inflated. The gas station air pump should be your new best friend.

You have several back roads i'm sure you take advantage of already. But instead of trying to go outright fast or pushing the limits. Push the limits in different ways. Form a solid pace and intentionally try to induce understeer and oversteer by playing around with your steering input speeds as well how early or how late you enter a corner with modulation of braking a acceleration. Measure the tires accordingly after each run. You may say this is stupid or unsafe, but this is the point of establishing a slower overall speed.

Practice makes perfect, build up the aggression gradually :tiphat:

I started with a stock Z for the most part, and changed things as I got more experienced. Nothing beats face time behind the windshield. :driving:

You are probably right there getting better all the time but with so much power coming into a turn braking is tricky to early most of the time and yes the instructors or group four go fast go fast guys eat my lunch in the corners. I will get there...

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