AutoX/track - Coilovers

[cranzy]

Hey guys, I'm doing quite often autoX and occasional track days. I was wondering if HKS Hipermax IV GT Coilovers and SPL Upper control arm and SPL Camber Arms will be sufficient for my needs? Thanks!

[lhinojos]

Originally Posted by cranzy

Hey guys, I'm doing quite often autoX and occasional track days. I was wondering if HKS Hipermax IV GT Coilovers and SPL Upper control arm and SPL Camber Arms will be sufficient for my needs? Thanks!

Yes /THREAD

[Jhill]

Originally Posted by cranzy

Hey guys, I'm doing quite often autoX and occasional track days. I was wondering if HKS Hipermax IV GT Coilovers and SPL Upper control arm and SPL Camber Arms will be sufficient for my needs? Thanks!

I'm interested to know how the hks compare to Oem for dd and very occasional track. With a 10k front and 9k rear they are a bit stiffer than Oem even though there claimed to be focused to street daily driver.

[KamiSpeed]

Originally Posted by Jhill

I'm interested to know how the hks compare to Oem for dd and very occasional track. With a 10k front and 9k rear they are a bit stiffer than Oem even though there claimed to be focused to street daily driver.

People are really surprised at how compliant the HKS coilovers are for daily driving. HKS spends a lot of time/money on making sure they are good for U.S roads and more. They will be more stiff than stock, because that is the nature of a coilover. But not overly stiff where it is unbearable. The HKS coilovers have one of the best shocks on the market.

[Slartibartfas]

It's my opinion/experience that it's better to start bone stock. Wait until the car becomes the limiter before upgrading. I do recommend a Schroth Rallye 3 harness or similar. That by itself was worth a second per lap during autocross. I was unknowingly losing time while having to brace myself for turns. When I first used a full 5-point harness and racing seat I marveled that I didn't have to use ANY energy to brace myself.

[cranzy]

Originally Posted by Slartibartfas

It's my opinion/experience that it's better to start bone stock. Wait until the car becomes the limiter before upgrading. I do recommend a Schroth Rallye 3 harness or similar. That by itself was worth a second per lap during autocross. I was unknowingly losing time while having to brace myself for turns. When I first used a full 5-point harness and racing seat I marveled that I didn't have to use ANY energy to brace myself.

You seem to have experience in autoX. How do you think the Z compares to the other autoX cars?

[gomer_110]

What organization do you run autox with? If it's SCCA then know that true-type coilovers and/or the SPL bits will get the car classed where it will never be competitive without big $$$ and some really good driving. Best bet just starting out is put a stiffer front bar on the car, a set of Koni's, some good 200TW tires, and call it a day.

Best to tighten the nut behind the wheel first and then worry about everything else.

[Slartibartfas]

Originally Posted by cranzy

You seem to have experience in autoX. How do you think the Z compares to the other autoX cars?

I haven't autocrossed in fifteen years and that was in a Sentra SE-R. From what I read here the Z34 isn't particularly competitive as currently classed. Don't let that stop you. I had one win locally in two years of competition. A Mazda 323GT and built to the rules BMW 325e usually won CSP.

[gomer_110]

Originally Posted by Slartibartfas

I haven't autocrossed in fifteen years and that was in a Sentra SE-R. From what I read here the Z34 isn't particularly competitive as currently classed. Don't let that stop you. I had one win locally in two years of competition. A Mazda 323GT and built to the rules BMW 325e usually won CSP.

A lot of us have blown this a bit out of proportion. While the Z34 isn't an overdog in any of the different classes it's in (BS, STR, ASP), given the right driver it should do fairly well.

[PharmDZ]

Originally Posted by gomer_110

What organization do you run autox with? If it's SCCA then know that true-type coilovers and/or the SPL bits will get the car classed where it will never be competitive without big $$$ and some really good driving. Best bet just starting out is put a stiffer front bar on the car, a set of Koni's, some good 200TW tires, and call it a day.

Best to tighten the nut behind the wheel first and then worry about everything else.

THIS! Do yourself a favor, stay in BS for a while. Set of Bridgestone RE-71R's in 285/35/19 on the stock Rays, Hotchkis sway bar, konis, and a catback exhaust for the hell of it and you're good. I and a few others are pushing to get the 370 moved to STU instead of STR which would make it much more competitively classed, but until then BS is probably your best bet if you're just starting out.

[cranzy]

I don't know much about the SCAA and I'm not involved in any of their events currently. I go to the local(Evergreen Speedway) autox events. I've been in the top 5 in the 4 events I've participated(~50 participants). So I was asking just to see if it's coincidence that I'm putting really good times or it's the car. I'm getting my *** kicked by a turbo s2k... like he is .500 to 1 sec faster than me usually.

P.s. I'm running square 285s rs3, eibach springs, Hotchkiss sway

[Slartibartfas]

He definitely has a weight advantage. Power should be similar, thus the S2k driver has a power-to-weight advantage. Check his tires -- DOT race rubber?

Driver is a huge part of the equation. At the 2009 Twentieth Anniversary Miata World event, the autocross was won by a bone-stock 1st-gen Miata, beating all kinds of modified cars, some highly modified. Know your car.

[cranzy]

Originally Posted by Slartibartfas

He definitely has a weight advantage. Power should be similar, thus the S2k driver has a power-to-weight advantage. Check his tires -- DOT race rubber?

Driver is a huge part of the equation. At the 2009 Twentieth Anniversary Miata World event, the autocross was won by a bone-stock 1st-gen Miata, beating all kinds of modified cars, some highly modified. Know your car.

What do you mean power should be the same? He has 600whp on low boost, I have ~340whp no boost . Also, I'm trying to read some books about racing but some of the concepts are hard to grasp without practice, and I can't just go on the street and do late apex turns

He has r888s I believe.

[Slartibartfas]

My apologies for seriously underestimating his power. He should spank you all day long. A lot more power, significantly lighter, DOT race tires. You will not beat him in your Z except in rain. That's how I got my one win; I was still on stock springs while the built-to-rules BMW was quite stiff and couldn't keep the tires planted. Again, don't let that stop you. He is your pace car. Look to see how narrow you can make the gap.