Any more information on the faulty Z1 FUCAs? I'm trying to decide between Z1's and SPL's. Half the price is keeping me interested but the rash of failures recently definitely and ease of adjustability on the SPL FUCA is pushing me that direction. As this would be for a DD I'm also wondering if NVH would be a negative on the SPL FUCA?

I did call Z1 and briefly talked to them but they dismissed it almost like it was a non-issue and said since then they corrected the issue or had a fix?

My first autocross session is this Sunday so I'll report back. I went and had the car aligned, no issues. I've hit pretty decent size rivets, and have not had any issues of the bolt loosening up.

I am not having any further issues with mine and have several hundred miles since replacing the bolts and using the thread locker Z1 sent me.
It seems like it was a new product learning issue.

Ran the dragon at Zdays, when I got home I checked and everything on Mine looked good!

Completed my autocross session. Everything is good and tight. No issues since install. Just FYI SPC redesigned their front control arms. They look promising.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/suspen...37-p-9584.html

They are forged steel too. Anyone running these yet?

Glad to hear the Z1's are holding up after the fix.

An updated.

I had all my issues solved through Z1. So far so good on my FUCA. Had a long road trip and everything went well. I would suggest to check the upper control arm bolt at oil changes.

Good luck everyone.

Installed these about a month ago and immediately noticed driver side creaking

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ing-clunk.html

Z1 front adjustable camber arms
 

I don't have that noise/problem when turning the steering wheel like that, thats a popping sound consistent with a worn ball joint.

My issue is creaking noise only from driver side like others have stated. Has anyone come to a long term resolution?


UPDATE: I have come to a conclusion that after a long drive or where temperatures are high i have zero noise issues from the camber arms. This has led me to eliminate the outer ball joint being the culprit since it is all metal piece temperature wouldn't have any effect. So it is indeed the rubber bushings on the inner joints, since greasing it only fixed the issue for a few miles it couldnt be a lube issue. The rubber bushings either need to be really lubed and conditioned where they meet the metal on the body of the car, or replaced entirely.

I plan on replacing the bushings to see if this is a long term solution.

Drivers side came apart AGAIN
 

My drivers side came apart AGAIN , it happened before and they said they needed to use a stronger locktite. mine was revised with the locktite they suggested, and the bolt worked its way out again!

I called and talked to Spencer from Z1 nice enough of a guy seems to want to take care of me. I am done with these control arms not worth dying for.

I will be purchsing a different brand after the shop verifys that it is in deed the bolt that came out. All the same symptoms light clunk noise yesterday then it came apart today on the way to work, luckly as with the last time i was going rather slowly.

Update the bolt did not back out. Looks like their fix worked. It was the ball joint part that bolts to the arm? Sheared right off.
Spencer @ Z1 had been great though he is overnighting me new SPL control arms full refund for my defective Z1 arms and SPL at cost and covering all costs to have them switched out.
Disappointed about the Z1 part but they have been taking care of me 100%.

Just wanted the community to know.

That's the reason I paid a little extra for my SPL parts. People, it may seem expensive at first but worth the price and their resale value is high

Nice customer service there. Spencer has taken care of me in the past as well.

I've talked to Spencer at ZDayZ. He is a nice guy. :tup: