With your set-up. Your settings will have to be a compromise. You might get the compression right, but the adjuster maybe giving you too much rebound or too little. Or something like that. You need coil-overs with separate controls for compression and rebound to do what you want.

AST can rebuild aragostas i believe. They have US facilities, i think at infineon raceway

ahh yes..passive incrimination :tup:

That's not really local to him. The go to shop near us is Performance shock inc. If you go to the Penske shock site, they have a list of approved shops.

I'm not sure why JDM dampers would be any harder to rebuild. As long as they are not sealed, they should be rebuild-able. JIC, HKS, TEIN all offer rebuild-able products.

If you bought sealed shocks, you should go ahead and throw them in the trash now. If the Aragosta's are a AST design and are not marked as "sealed" they should be 100% open for maintenance. Whether or not its worth the cost is another question.

As stated, they are not a 2-way adjustable design, so you are limited there.

Nitron shocks may offer a 2-way/3-way design that is very customizable. You can buy with or without springs with very little hassle. You just have to pay the UK exchange rate and shipping :inoutroflpuke:.

Goodluck :tiphat:

For clarification. Most adjustable dampers of any kind has a range of 0-300ibs of compression force. You could easily go up or down 3kg without needing to revalve the dampers.

With regards to spring size and rates. You'd want to step down in length if you increase the rate to maintain a relevant spring load. Not doing so will severely alter preload. Swift lists this information on the site for each spring in imperial and metric.

AST and Aragosta offer double adjustable options with remote reservoirs, but of course will add cost

But you'd have to sell your current coilovers. Its not easy to move $2,000-$3000 parts

That last statement sounds odd to me. I have always seen the opposite. As you jump in spring rate the coil thickness has to increase but the space between the coils must be the same otherwise you alter the springs stroke length before coil bind (absolutely not good). So with thicker coils but same gap then overall length must increase otherwise your slapping a 4in stroke spring on a 5in stroke damper and bottom out will be a very big surprise.

Or, buy another car to put my current ones on. Yes, this sounds better.

If I change. I will buy a complete new setup. They will be double adjustable on the 2nd set. LOL

hrm, i just dug thru the AST USA website. No products listed for the 370Z. i coulda sworn they at least had one way adjustable ones up there

You're right to some extent, and maybe i did phrase it a bit odd. But i think you are overlooking the load factor. If you are increasing the rate, you are reducing the amount of work the spring has to do. So although you decreased the space between coils, you also reduced the distance spring has to travel to support the same amount of weight. The stroke in such case does not need to be equal.

100ibs will compress a 25ib rated spring 4 inches
100ibs will compress a 50ibs rated spring 2 inches.

The open questions are; how many inches does the spring need to travel (total load capacity), and capable of traveling (maximum spring stroke). From there we can decide the window of operation and necessary spring rate change.

As long as the weight the spring has to support is the same, there is no reason to change the load capacity (assuming the previous load capacity was suitable in the first place). If you use the same length but increase or decrease the rate, you change the load, this is where the problem of binding and spring sag comes into play. So if you keep the load capacity the same for any given spring length, you shouldn't run the risk of binding a spring. OF course its a case of diminishing returns after changing the length too much.

A 2.5i.d 10inch x 12kg spring has a load capacity over 2 tons. That is about as much as the car would ever see. A 14kg x 10inch spring will have a capacity of over 4500ibs (over 9000ibs axle load!). The car will never see this in standard trim, nor would any tire support that. You'd need like 355 tires squared and a 1000ibs of downforce front and rear at like 60mph lmao.

As it stands. those springs are already too large. I'm going to go out on a limb and assume this car has never bound the coils or even got close to it.

Do you do any offroad excursions Spooler? Baha 1000? lol

I have been searching for some Penske's. No luck yet. Will need to make some phone calls if I go that route.

Noop, but I have compressed them to rubbing the inner fender on the Dragon at the Gravity cavity. There were a couple of spots like that on that road. I am waiting for my neck to heal a little more. I am going to try and make it to Z Nationals this year for some Road Atlanta track day fun.

Let your fingers do the walking, found someone on here via an old thread.

https://www.anzesuspension.com/

Rubbing front and rear? Was it rubbing at full lock or just over bumps going straight?

If you want to go with Penske's, its best you call them directly. They have a setup page dedicated to custom designs on the main site and its updated often. The Anze group is not very active online. I tried getting in touch with them a few years ago and they weren't very helpful. I can't say how they are now. PSI is my most trusted group so far. If you give them a call, most of the guys are very helpful. I usually deal with Beau or Ben. These guys can give you exact parts lists for almost all kits they sale or service. They don't charge or hassle you either for information.

Thanks for that info. The least pain points the better.

It was in a turn and only the front for the rubbing, not full lock. It wasn't bottomed out but it was close.

Man this thread is getting real expensive real quick lol.

It's only money. I pay for smiles per mile. We shall see. I need to get a few track days under my belt first.

Getting your car to behave the way you want/vision it to be is indeed satisfying. Money does buy smiles!

Well, since the weather has gotten cooler my issue has gone away. Guess the shock oil was getting too hot. I wonder how you combat this?

a different oil.

They do, may have to order them from across the pond though. AST 5200 Series : AST 2-Way 5200 - Nissan 370Z/Fairlady Z

If i'm not allowed to link then let me know mods. Dont remember the rule

Hot dang, my new rims are at the port in California.

where. i wanna go....take a look :rolleyes::excited:

No idea, They are at SSR.

I'd be happy to pick em up for you. Granted they might be a little used by the time you get em. :tiphat:

Man I've missed out on like a month of posts. Anyway...a few things after catching up. The Aragostas do come with instructions/build sheet but not shock dyno curves. Spooler bought his used.

They ARE rebuildable by AST here in the states. The Type S can also be upgraded to double adjustable with an external reservoir by Aragosta or presumably AST. They've got the goods of all the high end shocks, I'd go that route.

A few pages back, you were suggesting firming up ther dampers and I tried that for a bit but ended up going back down to deal with the gnarly roads. I had found a pretty good balance with the firmer rear settings however. The car was really tossable and I could make corrections whenever. It was just a really predictable set up like that and it seemed the car could do no wrong. Almost zero body roll. It was just tight and stuck like glue. Mid corner bumps didn't seem to upset it that much and no correction needed. But it did take a toll on the really rough stuff. Granted my car is 400 pounds heavier and has a 12" longer wheelbase but still.

I backed off five clicks rear and three front. Much better. Slightly more body roll but nothing like the stock suspension and the car sticks better over rough pavement. I'd try backing off the rear settings and go waaaay down. Like 7 clicks from full soft.

I'm going to compensate by adding more front camber and a little less rear.

There are some back roads in hill country which are extremely smooth for the most part. I'll dial it up a bit for those roads and it's just sublime.

It also seemed to me that the dampers needed quite a few miles before they're fully broken in.

Anyway...what you're asking is almost impossible. Maybe Multimatic spool valve dampers which isn't realistic for the aftermarket just yet. Going up in spring rate is just going to make things worse.

Issues went away since it got below 95. Rock solid again.

Fluid issue.

That is what it appears.

I was making adjustments on the front today and made a bonehead move. I forgot where I was at. LOL Thank goodness for this thread. Back to 17 clicks on the front. The rear feels great. The TT kit has changed a little bit about the car.

When's your notebook?

LOL, I lost it. Have you seen it?

I should have checked them when I got the car back. They were one click off
of what I had them set at. That confused me. I had made one click tighter and drove the car. I then backed out of that change. They should have been on 17 clicks, they were on 16 clicks. The thread just verified what I found. All this stuff was apart when the motor got dropped. Very easy for it to have been moved a click one way or the other.

The added weight of the TT kit should have made some difference in your dampener settings.

Now the old man is thinking. It has and that is why I am tinkering with them again. Putting the front fender liners back in improved the aerodynamics. I noticed that also. I have more downforce on the front of the car now.

I pretty much run full stiff up front!

Your's is track settings. On the street should be a little softer. Plus if you are full stiff. Time to have them revalved.

Yep I adjust them for street driving and I had them rebuilt and revalved right before ZDAYZ 2018. They only have one track day on them before the motor went bomb. I had them set about 75% of full stiff from and mid stiff rear. I will be interesting to see where it ends up with the new springs and aero setup.

One more click on the front did the trick. I am at 17 clicks front and 15 clicks rear. Paying attention to the rear, I may add another click to them. The downside is I may loose traction if I get it too stiff in the rear.

As far as my notebook Rusty. This is it. LMAO The main objective is I can replicate at anytime via my process.