Well, I didn't get anything done yet. I was hurting Saturday and it was raining today. I will try again next weekend. I am on the hook for mowing grass tomorrow....LOL

Every time there is a change in the weather. You may hurt. :icon14: So get accustom to it. :icon17: I did. :icon17:

Curious why you're changing over to Swift springs on the Aragostas? Are you going with a different rate?

Sounds like he switched to powertrix?

I am replacing the Aragosta springs with Swift springs. 12k front and 11k rear. They will go on my Aragosta coilovers. Swift
springs will give a better ride quality (Coils are farther apart with less spring bind when compressed) and last much longer at the proper rates.

I have 2 weather knee's. I am all too familiar with that. They have changed my pain meds. I have to take it every 8hrs or I am done. So, 3 times a day, 2 times a day doesn't work too good.

Well crapola, I got the wrong length springs for the front. I got 8" 65mm and they are supposed to be 10" 65mm. I will get with Charles tomorrow and see what he thinks. I was laying out all of my stuff and attempting to change the front springs when I noticed it.

:facepalm:

You like that, eh. Well, no as much as me. :) I love do-overs.

I feel for you. LOL I'm working on the motorhome. Trying to get it ready to go on the 9th for vacation. Everything I do. Seems like I have to do it twice or go get parts and pieces every time I turn around. :shakes head:

The stock Rana springs are pretty darn good. If you're able can you take side by side photos or take coil measurements?

I'm running Aragosta Type S on my car and after two weeks, the fronts settled to a little less than .2" and the rears settled about .5" from my original settings. With proper height and preload, I can't imagine there's any spring bind. Still, curious to see what you come up with as well as your impressions.

I did get in touch with Charles today. It is a learning process for both of us. Should be getting stuff ready to go tomorrow.

Do some searches on Swift springs. Lots of info on them. Here are some key highlights.

The 4 Factors that separate Swift from the rest of the spring industry:

1. Consistent spring rate throughout the stroke = more consistent performance

2. The largest amount of stroke to maximize suspension motion.

3. The highest durability against loss of spring height = excellent material memory prevents springs sag over.

4. Extremely light weight to reduce sprung weight increasing over all agility

I've read all the marketing hyperbole and that's of course Swift saying that about their own product. Again, if you're able take photos of them side by side when you get the new swifts in. Would like to hear your impressions once you get them installed (compared to the Aragosta springs).

I can tell you this. The rana springs have changed. They were 10in. at rest. They are about 2 to 4-16th's shorter now.

I'd be shocked if you could actually notice a difference between the Swifts and the springs that Aragosta comes with . . .

I think that the difference would be noted over the long term. Hard to see it just by looking at it. I guess we will have to wait and see.

For sure what I feel the most important advantage from company like Swift and Hyperco. Since damper controls the spring's motion, I would like assurance of spring acting consistently through its range. Even if my bottom isn't good enough to feel the difference :icon17:

Yeah mine definitely settled as well. I "think" it was almost a half inch in back but I found I hadn't rotated the bottom spring isolator all the way around so that may have caused my issue. On the front, they settled about 1/16th max. I'll double check in a week since they've only been on the car for three weeks. All springs are going to settle under weight, including the Swifts.

Besides the linearity of the spring throughout their compression and decompression stroke, one also has to look at force rate per mm of travel or how quickly they achieve their stated rate. I know Rana's using chromium steel which is cold forged and brag about their linearity as well. I'm just curious if the actual coil diameter on the swifts is any different or if there's any weight benefit.

I haven't looked into it in depth but I heard they don't make a 10kg spring for the OEM rear spring location. Is that why you went with 11k?

Charles at Powertrix had a custom spring made by Swift for the rear. It won't fit the spring perch of the Aragosta's though. The Powertrix Swift springs are about 5mm more diameter than the Rana springs.

Well, this is not happening until after I heal from my surgery which I had moved up to June 20th if all goes well. This thread will be postponed for a little while.

Heal up bud. Do as the doc's tell you on recovery. You'll be back to your old self in no time. :tup:

Be well brother and who knows maybe you get taller or was that shorterd! :confused: I will be thinking about you.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

It's all good. I am ready to be out of pain. Praying for a pain free vacation.

Whelp. I knew something would go wrong.

Shop found out the rear springs on the Aragosta coilovers are too big (diameter) for the SPL mid-links.

SPL website says they accept 65mm springs; their website for swift replacement springs says Aragosta uses 65mm springs. Someone must be wrong

SPL is closed for the day so i guess i'll call them tomorrow

I'm confused by this . . . how can both of these be true:

Swift spring too wide for Aragosta perch

Aragosta spring too wide for SPL mid-link, which takes 65 mm springs

Were the swifts not 65mm?

FYI 65mm is about . . . 2.5 inch?

The rear Aragosta's are not 65mm. The Front's are 65mm with a length of 10in. If you want to run the SPL midlinks you will need to order 65mm swifts, the next question is the length. You will need to search on this site for that advice or call SPL for the length they recommend.


I am out of commission until late August. My project is on hold until then. I need to order a few parts from Charles to wrap up
what I want to do.

Follow-up

Aragosta's rears are indeed NOT 65mm. They're more like 3.5 inches, or the same as stock. In other words, far too wide for the SPL mid-link.

I talked to Mike at SPL and got replacement swifts. 10kg/mm in 6 inch length - that suits my setup since i'm going at approximately fender to tire with no gap. Note that the SPL endlinks have a wide range of height adjustment, so there is room to go up or down.

Ditch the Aragosta springs for the rear as well as their adjustable perch (meant for their springs). The rear Aragosta damper is also height adjustable so you can raise/lower appropriately.

Current height:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8362/2...498da99d_c.jpg

Thanks for the update. It looks like my install will be on hold for a while longer. The disk in my neck between C6/C7 is giving me grief. The one the DR. didn't fix. I didn't know it until I started coming off the pain pills. It appears I will be in for round 2 under the knife. The lemonade I have been making is starting to suck.

Has anyone considered just making the rear Aragostas a true type? Might be a less expensive option.

Very interested to see how you like the aragostas. Hope you have a fast recovery and are pain free after surgery #2.

Oh crap spooler. I didn't want to hear that. :( Tell the doctor that he own you a freebie knife job for not getting it right the first time.

You and me both. Guess I will find out Wednesday. I have lots of questions to ask. See the thread in the lounge and you will get a better understanding, hopefully.

I am so screwed, only 125K of insurance to collect. Not much will be left after the attorney fees and Dr. bill's are paid.

:(

Bumping this thread...I keep on going over the rear damper "preload" in my head due to the springs being separate from the damper body. The Aragostas have a blueprint included with the toolkit and they show the damper length, from the center of the bottom mounting eye to the top of the threaded body to be 356mm. I didn't notice this in the diagram and added about 10mm length to the damper body with the suspension pushed all the way down (lower mount still bolted up). If you just let it droop on it's own, there's still room for the suspension to move downward with a bit of force. I think ultimately, the sways/links limit the travel.

My main concern is the suspension going into full droop with the damper length being too short and having the piston bottom out. Conversely, if the shock body is too long, the damping is in the wrong part of the stroke and one could top out and hit the bump stops.

Either way, as it sits now, the rear suspension "feels" firmer than the front. I run more clicks up front than I do in the rear by quite a bit Backing the damping off the rears, I can get them pretty compliant whereas the fronts always seem to be pretty firm but compliant over the rough stuff with much firmer damper settings. I'm not sure what the end wheel frequencies are with 12K/10K front rear spring rates but they really react quickly to road imperfections. So I'm wondering if I'm setting the damper length correctly on the rears.

Still sitting in the boxes at the moment. My neck is still giving me crap. My left arm strength is still not back to normal. I want to put it on but 2 weeks ago I needed to do a tranny service on my truck. Long story short, the wife had to help me hold the pan up to get a bolt started. I also paid for it for a week waking up every morning hurting.

Ah sorry to hear that...If you lived a whole lot closer I'd come over and help!

Anyway, I think I answered my own question. The rear ride is much improved and I plan on changing the damper length to spec tomorrow after work. I think I have it pretty close now but want to obviously double check everything.

Can you post a link or something to the instructions. I did not have any since I bought these 2nd hand with only 5k miles on them. Any tips you can give would help me. I am getting ready to bite the bullet and do mine. The ride into work with the stock Nismo suspension is killing me. The stock dampers just suck.

The instructions are all in Japanese but here's a good video that'll walk you through most of the basics:
https://youtu.be/nlmDYah5UsU

The online FSM will have all the torque specs, just scroll down and pick your year:
Nissan 370Z Factory Service Manuals

Lastly, here's the blueprint that came with the kit. Notice the 80mm height measurement for the rear spring adapter. You'll use the factory rubber upper/lower if your kit is the same as mine. At first I thought it would be way high and lowered the collar substantially. Big mistake. I didn't realize the lower rubber OEM isolator rotates and sits in a "groove" so to speak. So it was sitting far higher than it should. The measurements there are correct for their recommended height and it takes the worry out of trying to figure out the right height for everything:
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...pswaiyarqc.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...pslogmduk3.jpg

The specs for the 370Z kit are slightly different from the G37 kit but I'd imagine the rear shock free length and spring height are identical. Same for the front. If you notice, they even says Z34 near the rear spring perch diagram.
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/j...psdaohkoka.jpg
Everything came assembled, and the fronts came assembled with the proper preload and everything. Springs have not sagged a mm since installation.