2013 Touring Z with Sport Package - Vibration

[kenwood]

I just purchased some Michelin Pilot Super Sports for my 2013 Touring / Sport Package Z. With the OEM Potenza tires, I was beginning to get some vibration from the front end when I lightly brake. I am having the same annoyance with the new Michelin’s. So it’s not the tires. If I modulate and “stab” the brakes… no vibration. I think the over-sized Sport Package calipers are too much for the “stock” Nissan Sport Package rotors. If I get the OEM rotors resurfaced, eventually they will just go bad again (I think they are moderately warped now. Question: What other brand or Nissan replacement sport rotors to you recommend for the Nissan Sport rotors? The Nissan Sport calipers seem fine, just too much for the stock rotors.

[MacCool]

I'm not sure there is any such entity as "warped brake rotors". I'm more inclined to think that your braking technique is leading to uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor.

[aszyd]

He is correct, rotors warp and will shake the wheel during light braking. My recommendation is go with the Z1 two-piece rotors, to have the added benefit of lowering the unsprung weight.

Z1 2 Piece Akebono Front Rotors

They also have two-piece rears and a brake upgrade kit, where new pads, fluid, and lines can be optioned in. If you want to do all four at once.

[MacCool]

Originally Posted by aszyd

He is correct, rotors warp and will shake the wheel during light braking.

Might be true in some cases. I doubt that it's usually the case.

[kenwood]

Thanks for the advice and web site. I'm going to make the change. Do you agree, the new 2013 Sport Package calipers are basically OK? I think Nissan also uses them on the Nismo...

[aszyd]

I have no issues with either the calipers or rotors. I plan on going with the Z1 kit at some point for the weight loss alone.

I have really put the brakes to the test, doing some stupid driving, and they didn't fail me.

The only negatives that I have seen regarding the sport brakes are that they can get hot and the stock fluid can boil during track sessions. Otherwise, they are regarded quite highly.

[axmea?]

Dont waste you money to turn rotors. If you are simply looking to upgrade from oem rotors and not really use it for track or autoX, go with StopTech, Hawks, or EBC. These will do a good job without the high price.

[mishuko]

Do you feel any vibrations when driving around town? Any pulling? Turning?

And did you get balancing/alignment with the new tires?

[kenwood]

No vibration other than during light braking. The tires were balanced and aligned. No whrrl BBB vibrations



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[kenwood]

No wheel vibrations at any speed...

Sent from my LT28at using Tapatalk

[lpsscc]

ORileys will turn rotors for 10 bucks each.

They did a set for me and it cured all my front end/front braking vibration.

20 dollar fix and has been perfect since... That was 2 years ago.

[conmam]

Originally Posted by kenwood

I just purchased some Michelin Pilot Super Sports for my 2013 Touring / Sport Package Z. With the OEM Potenza tires, I was beginning to get some vibration from the front end when I lightly brake. I am having the same annoyance with the new Michelin’s. So it’s not the tires. If I modulate and “stab” the brakes… no vibration. I think the over-sized Sport Package calipers are too much for the “stock” Nissan Sport Package rotors. If I get the OEM rotors resurfaced, eventually they will just go bad again (I think they are moderately warped now. Question: What other brand or Nissan replacement sport rotors to you recommend for the Nissan Sport rotors? The Nissan Sport calipers seem fine, just too much for the stock rotors.

USE DBA5000 rotors with Ferrodo street performance pads. Best value for the money besides big brake conversion, but you must bed the pads in properly or else you might end up the same pad of having vibration,

[Skyscraper]

Originally Posted by MacCool

I'm not sure there is any such entity as "warped brake rotors". I'm more inclined to think that your braking technique is leading to uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor.

No, I'm afraid he is 99% likely to be experiencing warped rotors based on his description. Stabbing (Or more like one or two second brake applications at a time) the brakes is actually not a bad technique for long downhill driving because it reduces heat build up.

[zaimer]

I had the sport package on my Z too. It's almost guaranteed that you have warped rotors. For them being included in the sport package (supposed to be performance based), they are junk. My cars have never seen the track and I am not hard on the breaks. I had to replace the front rotors/brakes, because they were warped.

[Read T]

Oh, the "warped rotor" topic.

I'm not sure there is any such entity as "warped brake rotors". I'm more inclined to think that your braking technique is leading to uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor.

I wish I could give you a hug, although I don't want the " your braking technique" to sound condescending.

Pick up one of your rotors. Those things are heavy as crap. They won't warp with daily driving. They will however, get uneven deposits from braking which will cause the shudder the OP is describing. Most mechanics refer to this as "warped rotors" which is a colloquialism for uneven deposits and a carryover from a time when rotors could warp - as on my 1959 car with CDs for rotors. The absolute fix for uneven deposits (or, actual warped rotors) is to have them turned on a lathe or replace them. Alternatively, the OP could try rebedding the pads (if the pads are worth keeping with life left on them) to see if that helps.

The only negatives that I have seen regarding the sport brakes are that they can get hot and the stock fluid can boil during track sessions. Otherwise, they are regarded quite highly.

Agreed, the brakes on this car are pretty stout and have held up fine for me on track. But no one should use OEM fluid for track days. The OEM rotors will also get eaten up with aggressive pads on the track. The only negative about sport brakes is what a number of people on this site assume to be the stock bias resulting in "ice mode" in heavy braking. This is more a software problem than a hardware problem.

Stabbing (Or more like one or two second brake applications at a time) the brakes is actually not a bad technique for long downhill driving because it reduces heat build up.

Downshifting is a better technique and it's why you get a manual or use the "+" "-" paddle on an auto.

Do you agree, the new 2013 Sport Package calipers are basically OK? I think Nissan also uses them on the Nismo...

Yes they are fine, if you get really into tracking you may want to upgrade though. If the brakes weren't fine you'd be hearing about it on the news.

My recommendation is go with the Z1 two-piece rotors, to have the added benefit of lowering the unsprung weight.

Unless the OP is a serious track enthusiast (or really after bling) there would be no point in springing the $ for two piece rotors. And even if the OP gets into track stuff, the heavier a rotor is the more heat it can soak up before it transfers that heat to the pads and the brake fluid. Unless you are really deep into competitive driving and have some good ducting to cool your brakes, I'd stick to 1 piece rotors. On a related note, the Z1 1 piece rotors are inexpensive and a good unit - although I do have some teeny tiny cracks/pitting on mine from track duty.

From another thread:

Short rant about brake discs:
1) Heat is the killer of brake systems, especially brake pads. The rotor is the main heat sink of the brake system. The heavier the rotor in general, the more heat it can soak up and keep the total system cooler. This makes brake pads last much longer since heat is what eats up pads. So heavier = better. Lightening rotational mass is nice and all, but being able to use your brake pads because they aren't burned down to the backing plate is better.
2) Slotted rotors are designed to help limit buildup on the rotor. Buildup on the rotor is what causes the steering wheel to shake when you hit the brake, I think it's kind of hard to actually warp a huge hunk of steel (I'm sure at temps as high as brakes on a race car get you can though). The vanes in rotors help cool them. Slots do not.
3) Cross drilled rotors make no sense to me. I already said rotors are a heat sink, and the more mass the more heat a rotor can soak up. Why would you drill holes in a rotor to lighten it then? Worse though is that cross drilled rotors crack.

If you go new rotors, I would avoid cross drilled ones as cross drilled rotors (unless you are paying out the wazoo) are more likely to fracture. Will you crack them driving around town, probably not, but it's a safety item so do it right. Slotted rotors are great, but be advised that many garages will not be able to turn slotted rotors with an ordinary lathe.

Cliff Notes
1. Try to rebed your pads (search if you need instructions)
2. If that fails either get your rotors turned ($10 at O'Reily's sounds great) or replace your rotors with blank or slotted rotors.