Engine Noise :(

The Weapon · 09-23-2009, 05:57 PM

I placed it where my factory amp was located and added about 1 ft of cable so i can easily adjust if i needed to.

I've been reading up on the G37 forums and it seems that the Bose Headunit in their cars sends a flat Level Line to the factory Bose amp. The sound is processed and crossedover for each speaker from the factory amp. I wonder if this is the problem and i don't even need the Line Out Converter from the RE-Q. What happens when you convert a Line Level Out to a Line Level Out?

This so far makes the most sense since the input Wires were sheilded and wrapped vs. the the speaker wires that were just standard cable twisted together.

kannibul · 09-24-2009, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Weapon

I placed it where my factory amp was located and added about 1 ft of cable so i can easily adjust if i needed to.

I've been reading up on the G37 forums and it seems that the Bose Headunit in their cars sends a flat Level Line to the factory Bose amp. The sound is processed and crossedover for each speaker from the factory amp. I wonder if this is the problem and i don't even need the Line Out Converter from the RE-Q. What happens when you convert a Line Level Out to a Line Level Out?

This so far makes the most sense since the input Wires were sheilded and wrapped vs. the the speaker wires that were just standard cable twisted together.

If that's true, then one could replace everything but the head unit for those with Bose....

Hmmm.....

bigaudiofanat · 09-24-2009, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kannibul

If that's true, then one could replace everything but the head unit for those with Bose....

Hmmm.....

Yes as I have said before you can keep your factory head unit you just have to invest in some other stuff to make it work with your aftermarket amps and all. Anything is possible with enough money. I personally would rather have a new head unit and everything running directly from it. That way everything is working with no variables such as the re-q or the jl clean sweep.

polarity · 09-24-2009, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Yes as I have said before you can keep your factory head unit you just have to invest in some other stuff to make it work with your aftermarket amps and all. Anything is possible with enough money. I personally would rather have a new head unit and everything running directly from it. That way everything is working with no variables such as the re-q or the jl clean sweep.

I love all the info you give out here, it's always detailed which is great for audio idiots like me, but the only reason I like this idea a little better than replacing everything is keeping existing nav, bluetooth, and the stock look. So I definately cant wait to see this finished and if the OP is willing a review on the sound as well as approximate cost he put into the new equipment.

-William

bigaudiofanat · 09-23-2009, 06:11 PM

You still need the re-q to control all of your balances and all before going to to the new amp. The ones I have done I have kept the amp and taped into the wires coming OUT of it. I knwo some re-q's can accept a low level input I am not sure if yours can or not.

Division · 09-23-2009, 07:19 PM

Ferrite is an effective means of squashing RFI- I've never used them in this application, however depending on how desperate you get, it may be an option. You should be able to pick up some snap together chokes at radio shack...

bigaudiofanat · 09-23-2009, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Division

Ferrite is an effective means of squashing RFI- I've never used them in this application, however depending on how desperate you get, it may be an option. You should be able to pick up some snap together chokes at radio shack...

Division · 09-24-2009, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

If you don't know/understand/or just plain get it.... google it.

Ferrite Cores for RFI Suppression

Cylindrical EMI suppression with ferrite cores

ConchZ2 · 09-24-2009, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Division

If you don't know/understand/or just plain get it.... google it.

Ferrite Cores for RFI Suppression

Cylindrical EMI suppression with ferrite cores

+1

speedoflife · 09-23-2009, 08:00 PM

Another problem could be that a lot of these boards in radios and other equipment that hooks into your RCA's has little bitty fuses on them. When you just barley accidentally touch that positive prong of your RCA to the negative "jacket," while there is a signal (or sometimes not), it can blow those fuses and cause insurmountable grief. Mid to low level Pioneers are notorious for this. Have you tried (and I hate do thing this) grounding your RCA's?

shumby · 09-23-2009, 08:00 PM

^^^ it is true i use it in 100K dollar VFD's all the time on rs-232 conectors. cannot see why it would not work for your application

bigaudiofanat · 09-23-2009, 08:02 PM

If you are talking about picto fuses I have only seen them in pioneer premier head units.

The Weapon · 09-24-2009, 03:11 AM

Ok... Sorry no pics yet but.. I think I solved, well not really solved but I got rid of the problem. I hooked up the Inputs from the Bose Head Unit to a Passive In-Line Converter "Scosche SLC4" I've had one laying around for years and have never used it.

Disconnected the RE-Q. The RE-Q i have is the 3 channel version. No Noise at all. Ran the engine turned on all the lights, A/C etc... It sounds crystal clear and louder than it did with the RE-Q.

With RE-Q i had to turn up to 40-50% to hear sound. Now i start to hear sound at the first dot.

I need to get one more Converter for the Sub channel and I'll call it good. I cranked it up and didn't notice any fade in the bass or high frequencies which leads me to believe all the EQ saftey crap is that happened before is taking place at the stock amp. Exactly the same things I've read on the G37 forums and 350Z forms about the the Stock HU.

I don't know what the heck is wrong with RE-Q. I checked all my grounds and they were all reading less than .5 ohms which to my understanding is perfect. I wouldn't doubt the it was defective. The only authorized dealer in Tucson is the one audio store i hate "Audio Express" and took a chance of buying something there thinking i wouldn't have any problems.

I swear I honestly think they sell you crappy equipment if you don't purchase their "Extra Protection Plan" I've purchased a couple amps there one with the protection on without. Needless to say the one without the protection crapped out within a month. The one with the protection...it's still working today after 10 years.

Anyhow I appreciate all your guys' help. I feel much relief now that i have no whining.

As soon as everything is back mounted and put together I'll post some pictures.

Thanks again everyone

bigaudiofanat · 09-24-2009, 07:44 AM

As I said before the bose system dose that to the signal than sends it out. You need to try a different place to get your power and check your grounds. I keep reiterating that. The power wire should not be connected to your fuse block.

polarity · 09-24-2009, 09:53 AM

I'm really really really interested in this thread and how it all came out. Would love to see some pics and get info about how it all sounds put together.

-William

09-23-2009, 05:57 PM	#1 (permalink)
The Weapon Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 286 Drives: 370Z Tour/Sport Blk Rep Power: 3373	I placed it where my factory amp was located and added about 1 ft of cable so i can easily adjust if i needed to. I've been reading up on the G37 forums and it seems that the Bose Headunit in their cars sends a flat Level Line to the factory Bose amp. The sound is processed and crossedover for each speaker from the factory amp. I wonder if this is the problem and i don't even need the Line Out Converter from the RE-Q. What happens when you convert a Line Level Out to a Line Level Out? This so far makes the most sense since the input Wires were sheilded and wrapped vs. the the speaker wires that were just standard cable twisted together. __________________ Boosted Performance Comp Turbo - Tuner- CJM Fuel Return- Modified Berk CBE- ZSpeed Stage 4 Clutch - Southbend Flywheel - Tuned by Seb ~650whp - HKS Coilovers - SPL - Focal Audio 4 way Active - Audiocontrol DSP - Work CR 2P

09-23-2009, 06:11 PM	#5 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 855	You still need the re-q to control all of your balances and all before going to to the new amp. The ones I have done I have kept the amp and taped into the wires coming OUT of it. I knwo some re-q's can accept a low level input I am not sure if yours can or not. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

09-23-2009, 08:00 PM	#11 (permalink)
shumby Captin Canuck Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: with your mom Age: 46 Posts: 6,288 Drives: your sister Rep Power: 238	^^^ it is true i use it in 100K dollar VFD's all the time on rs-232 conectors. cannot see why it would not work for your application __________________ Originally Posted by SAM@GTM Engine detonation is not normal and it should never never happen, and whoever told that need to do something else for living . Sam

09-23-2009, 08:02 PM	#12 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 855	If you are talking about picto fuses I have only seen them in pioneer premier head units. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

09-24-2009, 03:11 AM	#13 (permalink)
The Weapon Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 286 Drives: 370Z Tour/Sport Blk Rep Power: 3373	Ok... Sorry no pics yet but.. I think I solved, well not really solved but I got rid of the problem. I hooked up the Inputs from the Bose Head Unit to a Passive In-Line Converter "Scosche SLC4" I've had one laying around for years and have never used it. Disconnected the RE-Q. The RE-Q i have is the 3 channel version. No Noise at all. Ran the engine turned on all the lights, A/C etc... It sounds crystal clear and louder than it did with the RE-Q. With RE-Q i had to turn up to 40-50% to hear sound. Now i start to hear sound at the first dot. I need to get one more Converter for the Sub channel and I'll call it good. I cranked it up and didn't notice any fade in the bass or high frequencies which leads me to believe all the EQ saftey crap is that happened before is taking place at the stock amp. Exactly the same things I've read on the G37 forums and 350Z forms about the the Stock HU. I don't know what the heck is wrong with RE-Q. I checked all my grounds and they were all reading less than .5 ohms which to my understanding is perfect. I wouldn't doubt the it was defective. The only authorized dealer in Tucson is the one audio store i hate "Audio Express" and took a chance of buying something there thinking i wouldn't have any problems. I swear I honestly think they sell you crappy equipment if you don't purchase their "Extra Protection Plan" I've purchased a couple amps there one with the protection on without. Needless to say the one without the protection crapped out within a month. The one with the protection...it's still working today after 10 years. Anyhow I appreciate all your guys' help. I feel much relief now that i have no whining. As soon as everything is back mounted and put together I'll post some pictures. Thanks again everyone __________________ Boosted Performance Comp Turbo - Tuner- CJM Fuel Return- Modified Berk CBE- ZSpeed Stage 4 Clutch - Southbend Flywheel - Tuned by Seb ~650whp - HKS Coilovers - SPL - Focal Audio 4 way Active - Audiocontrol DSP - Work CR 2P

09-23-2009, 07:19 PM	#6 (permalink)
Division Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Central FL Posts: 199 Drives: 2009 370Z Sport Rep Power: 17	Ferrite is an effective means of squashing RFI- I've never used them in this application, however depending on how desperate you get, it may be an option. You should be able to pick up some snap together chokes at radio shack...

09-23-2009, 08:00 PM	#10 (permalink)
speedoflife Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: MS/TX Posts: 268 Drives: '06 Pontiac G.P. Rep Power: 17	Another problem could be that a lot of these boards in radios and other equipment that hooks into your RCA's has little bitty fuses on them. When you just barley accidentally touch that positive prong of your RCA to the negative "jacket," while there is a signal (or sometimes not), it can blow those fuses and cause insurmountable grief. Mid to low level Pioneers are notorious for this. Have you tried (and I hate do thing this) grounding your RCA's?

09-24-2009, 07:44 AM	#14 (permalink)
bigaudiofanat Car Audio Installer Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Magnolia DE Posts: 8,342 Drives: 2012 Infiniti G37x Rep Power: 855	As I said before the bose system dose that to the signal than sends it out. You need to try a different place to get your power and check your grounds. I keep reiterating that. The power wire should not be connected to your fuse block. __________________ Need help with car audio or electronics? Let me know!! Need Help Let Me Know Direct email address reimermatt@gmail.com Owner of: Dynamic Mobile Audio Follow me below https://www.facebook.com/Dynamicmobileaudio/

09-24-2009, 09:53 AM	#15 (permalink)
polarity Base Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Mississippi Posts: 166 Drives: [2009 370Z] Rep Power: 18	I'm really really really interested in this thread and how it all came out. Would love to see some pics and get info about how it all sounds put together. -William

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