the "ring" for closing the gap in the metra kit is just garbage. i would have been happy with original non bose head unit so i wouldnt need the install kit.

You can use the remote turn on wire off the pioneer to power both the antenna booster on the car and bypass module.

I don't know about the aswc since i used pac

for reverse wire tapped into the actual reverse wire off the tail lamp since the trunk liner was pulled out for the camera instaIl.

No I used the base factory trim, removed the thin felt around the opening and made a gasket out of hard felt to completely fill the gap. :)

No "ring" in the schoshe kit

I cant wait to get bluetooth into the car, sick of using the stupid AUX cable. I ended up ordering the radio from Crutchfield for $425, added a ASWC control for $50 from Amazon. I hope I have everything I need, don't want to spend anymore money on a stupid radio. I will use velcro to fill the gap then, thanks

Awesome thanks! So where does the blue wire on the adapter harness go?

And do I use the mute wire at all?

I'm sick of the Aux cable too, but I have to wait and pay off my exhaust first before I can think of buying anything else.

I guess I should pay off my iPhone first too... that was expensive as hell. :thumbsdown:

Gotta start saving again. :icon17:

Just charge it, the government does it

I like my 800 though.

Errr the only thing I would really charge is the Stillen SC

i dont think it hooks up to anything on the pioneer side. when you're ready to solder the harnesses together, just follow the pinouts in the owner's manual and the scosche/metra harness. i rarely use all the wires on the hareness. just tape it up. :)



so i did some BT testing on my 2500BT yesterday in my dd to see if i can get voice directions off my android phone GoogleNav to sound through the car speakers. as long as i have the streaming BT audio turned on (pioneer side), it works. :tup:

but i can't run anyother audio in the background, so there is a limitation.
for me, i dont use nav all that much so this is fine. as long as i can still use it when i really need it is what i counts. if needed i can turn BT off and just use the nav off the phone, and pioneer for stereo completely separately. :)

The Pioneer manual lists the blue/white wire as:

Connect to system control terminal of the power amp or auto-antenna relay control terminal (max 300 mA 12 V DC)

Im thinking that the blue wire from the vehicle side adapter harness provides vehicle side power for the antenna maybe? Confusing!

yah, just wire up that blue/white wire to your antenna adapter harness blue wire and the bypass module for the e-brake.

the blue wire from the scoche to the antenna adapter blue wire provided no power on my install.... so you can measure it with a volt meter if you want, but chances are, your antenna booster will not get the 12v it needs to make FM work.

btw, if you do any tests, makes sure you plug that SRS off indicator thing for the passenger seat before you power on the car. otherwise you might get a SRS error light.

ok so just ignore the blue adapter harness wire then. got it.

Install complete! Everything works great except the Bluetooth buttons, can't get them to work even with manual programming. Unfortunately I started the car without the hvac connected and now I've got a Service Engine Soon light! I gotta find out how to get rid of it.

Thanks for all the help!!

Awesome! Did you check with bigaudiofanat about the BT buttons? :)

Nope is he the resident guru? I'll PM him

Yah, not only that, he's a aswc fanboi. :icon17:

Close from finishing mine, just have to wire the aswc and the ground cable in. I did forget to order the stupid parking brake bypass, so I might have to do wiring again next week when the part gets in. ARGGG

^ yeah but its easy, just the blue wire to the amp on wire, the green to the parking brake wire, and black to ground. Mine works great!

I might just wire it to a point where I have slacks where I can just clip it together without removing the radio. I can hide it above the radio and below the cubby

one area good for that would be towards the glove box. you can reach in there without really taking anything apart.

and you got power from the 12v socket right there...

If it's the touring package, the phone buttons will not work without rewiring in the rear.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...rol-phone.html

OMFG!! this is why my ***Damn phone buttons wouldnt program!!! i spent hours trying to get this to work...

so all we are doing here is jumping wires from one to another on the same wire block?

I actually did rewire in the rear, and I can get those buttons to do OTHER tasks (like right now theyre preset up and down) but not any telephone task. bigaudiofanat suggested I check my connections back there, I did take the time to manually strip and join the wires without T connectors or anything like that but I didnt solder, so thats what Im gonna try next.

for wireharness i solder, but doing remote wires and others, t-taps are your friend. i cant see myself doing audio install these days without t-taps and spade connectors, other terminal connectors. work goes by so fast and reliably. :)

something like this. i use red and blue depending on gauge.

Amazon.com: t-tap red

Amazon.com: 3M Scotchlok Nylon Fully Insulated Male Spade Type Connectors 22-18 Gauge (Red) - 100 Pack: Car Electronics

Amazon.com: Ratcheting Crimp Tool For Insulated Terminals: Electronics

Hey guys, is anyone running Android phones with the newer pioneer headunit? I can connect my Galaxy S2 with regular phone and musicstreaming, yet I can't get into the pandora apps or the apps on the headunit itself. Anyone has an idea?

Thanks

huh, that's odd. im running jellybean on Droid4 with both 2500BT and 4500BT. both units can run pandora fine.