Boss Outcast 5000 watt amp

MY GOD...:eek:

No one needs this much power in a car... let alone a HOUSE...

here are the specs on that amp...

Amplifier Basics

Amplifier Class: Class D
Technology: Digital
Number of Output Channels: 1
Max Power Ratings

Total Power: 5000 Watts
Max Power @ 1 Ohm: 5000 Watts x 1
Max Power @ 2 Ohms: 3500 Watts x 1
Max Power @ 2 Ohms, when strapped with same model amplifier: 10000 Watts
RMS Power Ratings

RMS Power @ 4 Ohms: 2250 Watts x 1


Frequency Response: 50 to 150 Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) @ RMS Output: 0.01%
Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR): 100 dB
Minimum Speaker Impedance: 1 Ohms
Variable Low Pass Crossover: 50 to 150 Hz
Dimensions: 2" x 18" x 11.5"

Direct Link for this Amp

I dont know what any of that means hahaha but sounds like a badass amp that needs to be in a strip club or something haha so I should go buy an amp and sub and wiring instead of using this amp?

http://www.unathleticmag.com/wp-cont...b-blown-up.jpg




Seriously bro, the amp in my car right now is like 250-300 RMS and it sounded great. This is wayyyyy over kill. I just sold my speakers so if you want my amp Im selling it for $100.

What that means is you have more than enough power for any sub out there on the market. the numbers below are if you were to run 2 subs together in series as long as the subs are between 1 (not common at all) and 4 Ohms. Without trying to confuse you too much... if you put two 4 Ohm subs in parallel the amp cuts the Ohm level in half for both subs to 2 Ohms etc. which means MORE power. Think of rock concert type volume in your tiny car...

I would suggest using a JL sub or another sub that can handle half the power of this amp and turn the gain up to only 1/4. 250 watts RMS is MORE than enough for this tiny car.

Max Power @ 1 Ohm: 5000 Watts x 1
Max Power @ 2 Ohms: 3500 Watts x 1
Max Power @ 2 Ohms, when strapped with same model amplifier: 10000 Watts

Boss amps are not exactly quality. Never the less with that much power you need to make sure you run your sub at the proper level. Depending on what your sub is, it may be able to take the power your amp will put out. You have a gain knob on your amp that you will need to adjust when you install your amp and sub.

If the numbers and details above are confusing to you read up in this thread.

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/6...dio-101-a.html

Thank you all. I just dont know much about audio at all and I know I had an amazing amp haha

If you want to use that amp just for bragging rights about who has the most watts, then it is amazing.

But it's not very practical and it's not exactly hi-fi (but probably good enough for the ears of 90% of ppl and cars are a terrible sonic environment, so hi-fi is not that big of a deal). You're using a sledge hammer to drive a finishing nail.
The power wires are supposed to 0AWG wire. That's some big wire that is going to be difficult to run and to hide.
The amp will probably get quite hot, even when quiescent.
&C, &c, &c.

IMNSHO, your best bet would be to obtain an amp rated for approximately the same watts as your (sub)woofer can handle.

no I am.... I am going to prolly but it up for sale and prolly get a 1000watt for a 10 prolly

+1

You should always try to get an amp that will either match the RMS numbers of your speakers or have slightly more power. i.e. Sub is 500 watts RMS and the amp is 550. This gives you piece of mind knowing that there is little chance of popping your speaker and you can tune it within your tastes.

Parallel

my bad get them mixed up all the time, fixed.

:)