Sound system upgrade *need your 2 cents*

nobdy_#608

I drove my Z when i first got her on a lil road trip she drove amazing and the seats were comfortable everything was perfect except a lil road noise and of course the sound system was just very dissapointing.
I have the Nismo basic stereo/no rear speakers. been thinking and its time for a very nice upgrade ive had alpine in the past and loved it so heres what i plan on.

Headunit:Alpine INE-S920HD
Speakers:Alpine Spr-60C
Subwoofer:Alpine SWR-10D2
for the subwoofer box ill get the wicked C.A.S side cubby box.
Amps
-Alpine MRP-F300 bridged
-Alpine MRX-M110
I would also use dynamat on the hatch area and under the door panels.

This is just what i have come up with so far im still researching on speakers and what amps to use but i would really like to know what everyone thinks.

Naenyn

I'm very interested to see what you end up with. I'm planning a similar setup for my Nismo once it makes the journey from Japan. I'm also an Alpine fan, but was looking at them only for the HU and instead doing JL Audio for speakers.

I'm especially curious about your sub decision. Any reason why you chose what you did as opposed to a ZEnclosure..?

leighspped

1000rms it a lots in a small car.... im running 500rms in my Z and the same amp and Alpine SWX-1243D in my sti, its kinda over kill in the sti....

oh and the alpine stuff is awesome its all over the sti

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nobdy_#608

Ive had the older version type R subs n loved them sole reason im going with the new gen and the reason i decided on not going with zenclosuer was mainly i felt the box znd sub could be seen through the glass to easy with the wicked cas box i like how its in the side cubby and leaves more space

bigaudiofanat

Replying to this thread knowing that a single 12 being pushed by less than 300 watts hits hard in a Z. I think your crazy by going with 1,000 watts. Of course your sub will never fully see that however you can easily achieve hard hitting bass with a amp half that size.

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InsanO

Big,

Side note (question) - If say the sub specs say 1000w RMS but you power them with ~500w RMS amp, wouldn't you run the risk of underpowering the sub and damaging it via clipping/distortion?

nobdy_#608

I was also thinking about that BIG and was thinking that or the Mrx-m55 to push 550 watts but like InsanO said im worried about under powering the sub

bigaudiofanat

As long as the signal you are providing the sub is not clipped. That is when you run the risk of damage. Just make sure you tune your amp, keep loud and bass boost off and you should be good. You never had to max out the RMS rating to any speaker or sub for them to sound good.

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InsanO

So for a 1000w RMS sub you'd recommend a min ~500w RMS amp?

bigaudiofanat

You could run it off a 100 watts, the fact is that as long as the sub is not receiving a clipped signal "distorted" than you will be ok. How big of an amp is up to you. You could go with a 1,000 watt amp if you want. It goes back to what I said earlier. In a car the size of a Z, you do not need a lot of power to make it sound loud. Nor do you need more than one sub to do so.

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RonRizz

Speakers don't blow from too little power. They blow from a clipped signal, or surpassing the physical capabilities of the speaker.

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tommyguns

It's just that simple! Don't over power your components.

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Stino

Very nice setup. In early 2011, I went with:

Alpine INA-W900BT
KCE- 400BT Bluetooth
PDX5 Amp
Boston Acoustics:

• SR 60 Comp (Front),
• S35 (Rear) and a 10" G2 Single Sub.
• I recently added the Alpine C117D Rear Backup Camera.

Last night I ordered a Boston Acoustics G310-4 10" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer to replace the G2 sub. I can't wait to install this weekend.

I very happy with my system and I'm sure you will be with yours.

Picture of Sub

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nobdy_#608

Im going to start buying the parts in a couple weeks. I plan on doing the install myself ill post pics of the install and how it sounds in the end. Cant wait!