Simple Speaker Recommendation for Base...

TheWeatherman · 05-05-2009, 01:05 PM

Okay, I've gone through most of the threads here, but still can't find what I'm looking for. I want simple!!!! I would like to replace the speakers in my base stereoed Z. I don't want to drill, move anything, or have to modify anything. No amps, no nothing. Just a nice-sounding set of door speakers and dash speakers that will work well with the base head unit. Any recommendations? No sound deadening material. Simple. If you should have any ideas, how tough is the wiring?

rreign · 05-05-2009, 01:52 PM

Wiring is going to be very easy for you. 1. Take all speakers out. 2. Cut OEM connection plug (make sure to leave enough wire on the plug in case you ever need to re-connect) 3. Put connectors on individual wires 4. Hook up new speakers and install with plate (if needed) and screws that come with the speakers.

Speakers are pretty easy too. OEM H/U is a 4ohm set up. Make sure to find 4ohm speakers.

Side note - you will probably be under powering the speakers if they are say over 30w RMS. Could lead to damage if you are trying to pound your sytem.

Anyone else got anything they want to add?

TheWeatherman · 05-05-2009, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rreign

Wiring is going to be very easy for you. 1. Take all speakers out. 2. Cut OEM connection plug (make sure to leave enough wire on the plug in case you ever need to re-connect) 3. Put connectors on individual wires 4. Hook up new speakers and install with plate (if needed) and screws that come with the speakers.

Speakers are pretty easy too. OEM H/U is a 4ohm set up. Make sure to find 4ohm speakers.

Side note - you will probably be under powering the speakers if they are say over 30w RMS. Could lead to damage if you are trying to pound your sytem.

Anyone else got anything they want to add?

Wow! Thanks, Rreign! So, that's now my problem.... Finding a speaker that fits perfectly. I'm really good with mechanical stuff, but all of my Nissan/Infiniti products had the Bose. I've not had a chance to play with this kind of stuff. I get afraid of mounting the speakers as well. What about brackets and stuff? What speakers will fit? Anyone? Is this going to be a complete pain? Thanks for the wiring tips. That scares me too. I just don't want to drill. I just want to wire them in, hook them up, and go. Oh, of course I want a much better sound. I don't need super-bumping bass, just something that sounds better.

TheWeatherman · 05-05-2009, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rreign

Side note - you will probably be under powering the speakers if they are say over 30w RMS. Could lead to damage if you are trying to pound your sytem.

Now I'm scared about the RMS thing. I can get over 30, but shouldn't have my stereo just sitting at full volume, right? Do you mean it's just overloading the stock amp and I wouldn't be able to tell because the speakers wouldn't distort? What's with the 4 ohm thing? Rookie here, sorry. These are all great things to tell guys like me...

OH, what do we do about the speakers on the dash? Those tweeters? What size and power? They seem awfully large up there. What Ohm?

rreign · 05-05-2009, 03:09 PM

Well the stock set up has 6.5"s in the doors and 2.5"s in the dash. If yyou buy a different setup, you will most likely end up with the 6.5"s and 1" to 1.5" tweets. The tweets will have to be mounted with a bracket that will fit over the existing hole. Any car audio shop should be able to set you up with those. Don't be scared of the wiring. All you have to do is connect small + and - terminals to the end of the wires that you cut and plug them onto the + and - on the speakers. That's the easiest way I can explain it. Super simple bro! Now, let's see. Aftermarket component speaker set with tweets with about 25 - 30w RMS.... HMMM... Here's a few ideas

Alpine SPS-600C Type-S 6-3/4" component speaker system — fits in 6-1/2" or 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com
Focal Access 165 A1 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com
Focal K2 Power 100KRS 4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

All of these have ratings from 2 - 80W RMS I'm sure that they will work. Just a matter of taking a look and seeing what impedence they are (2ohm,4ohm,8ohm etc.)

TheWeatherman · 05-05-2009, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rreign

Well the stock set up has 6.5"s in the doors and 2.5"s in the dash. If yyou buy a different setup, you will most likely end up with the 6.5"s and 1" to 1.5" tweets. The tweets will have to be mounted with a bracket that will fit over the existing hole. Any car audio shop should be able to set you up with those. Don't be scared of the wiring. All you have to do is connect small + and - terminals to the end of the wires that you cut and plug them onto the + and - on the speakers. That's the easiest way I can explain it. Super simple bro! Now, let's see. Aftermarket component speaker set with tweets with about 25 - 30w RMS.... HMMM... Here's a few ideas

Alpine SPS-600C Type-S 6-3/4" component speaker system — fits in 6-1/2" or 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com
Focal Access 165 A1 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com
Focal K2 Power 100KRS 4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com

All of these have ratings from 2 - 80W RMS I'm sure that they will work. Just a matter of taking a look and seeing what impedence they are (2ohm,4ohm,8ohm etc.)

Rreign, thank you so, sooo much. I really like hearing this from someone who knows instead of just guessing on my own. I'm afraid of how these 6.5's will fit in the stock openings, but I'll see. Again, if you have more info, I really appreciate it. It's not often that people just help people anymore. Thanks again.

david712370 · 05-05-2009, 03:47 PM

Hey man... looks like reign took care of ya on this one. I don't really have much to add. I would say look at jeffs thread titled something like his second 370z. He does use the deadening material on this install but you wouldn't have to. I feel ya on not wanting to replace the head unit but i would strongly suggest it so you can put an amp in but completely understandable. I would say component speakers would be your best bet like reign suggested above. In Jeff's thread he uses a pair of hertz two way components. I believe he has said that they are sensitive enough that a stock unit would power them well. They also come with the mounting bracket needed for the 2.5" speakers in the dash. I would say those speakers would be a major upgrade and would be no hassle installing them. As for the 6.5's fitting in the door. You won't have much of a problem here. The way the door panel is there is a bracket that comes out of the door to give you the clearance you need. If you look on the threads some of the guys tell you just how much clearance you have. But in other words you won't need an additional bracket.

As for me.... I got a pair of three way components... waiting on the head unit to come in so i can put the amp in. They require 150 watts rms. I could easily play my stock head unit at max volume.... this would actually be a rather comfortable volume for me but probably loud for most. HOwever i don't play that loud for fear of distortion and well damaging the speakers so i play it at about 23 of 31. I can't say how much of a difference the speakers have made. So depending on how loud you like to listen to ur music i would strongly consider upgrades other than just the speakers.

Hope this helps

rreign · 05-05-2009, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheWeatherman

Now I'm scared about the RMS thing. I can get over 30, but shouldn't have my stereo just sitting at full volume, right? Do you mean it's just overloading the stock amp and I wouldn't be able to tell because the speakers wouldn't distort? What's with the 4 ohm thing? Rookie here, sorry. These are all great things to tell guys like me...

OH, what do we do about the speakers on the dash? Those tweeters? What size and power? They seem awfully large up there. What Ohm?

First off +1 on checking out Jeff's thread on the 2nd install. With that install, I'm pretty sure he only did a H/U and components. Not really a DIY so to speak, but he did explain what speakers and H/U he did.

Also I would suggest doing an aftermarket H/U just for better control of your system and some additional wattage but you would be fine with the stock.

Ok, for the "Tweets" in the dash, I quote them because they aren't really tweets so much as just 2.5" components. It would be really hard to find a manufacturer that would carry 2.5"s. Like I said, I suggest getting a component set-up with the 6.5"s and tweets. Like the ones I posted. They should come with brackets to mount the tweets. Also you shouldn't have any problem with the mounting depth of any of those 6.5"s that I showed you, or any others for that matter. The stock mounting holes have plenty of clearance and are plenty deep enough.

Don't worry too much about the wattage but more about the impedence. Like I said, make sure they are 4ohm or A. They will be too much for the stock system. B. You won't be able to turn them up without distorting them at a very low volume level. Finally, C. You run a risk of actually damaging the speakers due to thewattage and impedence conflict you will have. Oh plus you may actually damage the stock system itself because of the same conflict.

That's as simple as I can put it for someone that doesn't know all that much about systems.

TheWeatherman · 05-05-2009, 04:44 PM

Okay, this is what I just bought, and get on Thursday....

Focal Access 165CA1 6.5"
Focal Access 165CA1 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

Polk db1001 1" tweeter.
Polk db1001 1" dome tweeters at Crutchfield.com

He recommended this Polk because it's not in your face, but still is nice and clean. He described it as "not making you tired and hurtning your ears."

I am really hoping this works. Crutchfield said they didn't have a bracket for 2.5" to 1". He recommened, like you said Rreign, of making my own out of some metal. We'll see. Do these speakers come with some wire to connect to or do I have to go and buy some? Rreign, I'm still totally scared because I have a feeling I'm going to have to go to the hardware store about ten times for this project. Any more tips? Anything I should be picking up before delivery?

Oh, I'm sure it's on here, but any tips for taking off the door panels? I saw that I need something that's not harsh for taking off the tweeter covers. I really hope this works. Thanks for all of your help though! Maybe I'll take some pics during the process. Man, I've never done anything like this before. I usually let other people make the mistakes first. Then I move in. Not this time!

rreign · 05-05-2009, 04:59 PM

Definitely good choices. I completely forgot about Polk. Anyway, here's what I recommend for the install. Go to Walmart (seriously) go to the automotive section with all the electrical stuff. Pick up a kit from there. It's like a 72pc. kit for $14. Comes with everything you are going to need for this install. Wire cutters, connectors, etc.

Moving on, yes the speakers and the tweeters are going to come with the extra speaker wire that will be needed. They will probably come with connectors to, but hell I would still buy that kit anyway.

If you want, let me know when you are going to do the install. I will come on here and stick around to walk you through any questions, thoughts, ideas or anything else you might need.

rreign · 05-05-2009, 05:02 PM

Just a quick question, why did you decide to buy them separate? (the speakers and tweeters) I personally don't like to mix and match audio companies but I guess to each his own. Thats why I showed you this....Focal Access 165 A1 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com You actually spent more money than what you needed to. Sorry

Check back in my previous posts

TheWeatherman · 05-05-2009, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rreign

Just a quick question, why did you decide to buy them separate? (the speakers and tweeters) I personally don't like to mix and match audio companies but I guess to each his own. Thats why I showed you this....Focal Access 165 A1 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com You actually spent more money than what you needed to. Sorry

Check back in my previous posts

Crap. I suck. I don't know why. I know a ton about cars, and most other things for that matter... but stereos? No. I guess I just got a bit excited. Sorry, but thanks again sooooo much. I'll keep you updated. I feel like I just didn't listen to my dad. "I told you to buy this and you bought this! What were you thinking? Well, I guess you'll deal with your mistake."

By the way, are those crossovers on that Focal tweeter thing? See, now it's getting too complex. I just want to hook up the wires and go. I think the Polks just have those built in, right?

Jeff Smith · 05-05-2009, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheWeatherman

Okay, this is what I just bought, and get on Thursday....

Focal Access 165CA1 6.5"
Focal Access 165CA1 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

Polk db1001 1" tweeter.
Polk db1001 1" dome tweeters at Crutchfield.com

He recommended this Polk because it's not in your face, but still is nice and clean. He described it as "not making you tired and hurtning your ears."

I am really hoping this works. Crutchfield said they didn't have a bracket for 2.5" to 1". He recommened, like you said Rreign, of making my own out of some metal. We'll see. Do these speakers come with some wire to connect to or do I have to go and buy some? Rreign, I'm still totally scared because I have a feeling I'm going to have to go to the hardware store about ten times for this project. Any more tips? Anything I should be picking up before delivery?

Oh, I'm sure it's on here, but any tips for taking off the door panels? I saw that I need something that's not harsh for taking off the tweeter covers. I really hope this works. Thanks for all of your help though! Maybe I'll take some pics during the process. Man, I've never done anything like this before. I usually let other people make the mistakes first. Then I move in. Not this time!

Ok I just saw this thread and I'm going to recommend that you not install these speakers! The reason why is that (4) tweets are going to be over kill! If you dont want to build or modify anything then you will need shallower 6.5" mids also! The only speakers that FOCAL makes that will drop in the doors without any mounting spacers will be the POLYGLASS 165 VRS comps. There are no drop in speakers for the dash! You will need to run wires becasue if your not installation savvy the passive xover will need placed in the kick panel like i did in 370z#2 and you can access the wiring you need behind the radio. I hope I didnt confuse you but it's not a very complicated job for skilled tech but maybe a bit much for a new DIY'er. But I'm here to help if you need it.

TheWeatherman · 05-05-2009, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff Smith

Ok I just saw this thread and I'm going to recommend that you not install these speakers! The reason why is that (4) tweets are going to be over kill! If you dont want to build or modify anything then you will need shallower 6.5" mids also! The only speakers that FOCAL makes that will drop in the doors without any mounting spacers will be the POLYGLASS 165 VRS comps. There are no drop in speakers for the dash! You will need to run wires becasue if your not installation savvy the passive xover will need placed in the kick panel like i did in 370z#2 and you can access the wiring you need behind the radio. I hope I didnt confuse you but it's not a very complicated job for skilled tech but maybe a bit much for a new DIY'er. But I'm here to help if you need it.

Ohhh maaannn! Canceling order.

rreign · 05-05-2009, 05:37 PM

Damnit, I completely forgot about the crossovers for those speakers! I was going to get up with Jeff about this thread and then when I got home I freakin forgot that too. No real big deal though. Don't stress out Weatherman! You will probably have to use the mounting brackets for the speakers but again, not a big deal. The tweeters as you know, are not going to just drop in. You'll need brackets for those. Otherwise, I'm sure that Jeff and I can talk you through the install.

05-05-2009, 01:05 PM	#1 (permalink)
TheWeatherman Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 265 Drives: 2009 370Z 6MTw/Sport Rep Power: 16	Simple Speaker Recommendation for Base... Okay, I've gone through most of the threads here, but still can't find what I'm looking for. I want simple!!!! I would like to replace the speakers in my base stereoed Z. I don't want to drill, move anything, or have to modify anything. No amps, no nothing. Just a nice-sounding set of door speakers and dash speakers that will work well with the base head unit. Any recommendations? No sound deadening material. Simple. If you should have any ideas, how tough is the wiring?

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05-05-2009, 01:52 PM	#2 (permalink)
rreign A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Age: 40 Posts: 2,341 Drives: 03 Evo 8 Rep Power: 709	Wiring is going to be very easy for you. 1. Take all speakers out. 2. Cut OEM connection plug (make sure to leave enough wire on the plug in case you ever need to re-connect) 3. Put connectors on individual wires 4. Hook up new speakers and install with plate (if needed) and screws that come with the speakers. Speakers are pretty easy too. OEM H/U is a 4ohm set up. Make sure to find 4ohm speakers. Side note - you will probably be under powering the speakers if they are say over 30w RMS. Could lead to damage if you are trying to pound your sytem. Anyone else got anything they want to add?

05-05-2009, 03:09 PM	#5 (permalink)
rreign A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Age: 40 Posts: 2,341 Drives: 03 Evo 8 Rep Power: 709	Well the stock set up has 6.5"s in the doors and 2.5"s in the dash. If yyou buy a different setup, you will most likely end up with the 6.5"s and 1" to 1.5" tweets. The tweets will have to be mounted with a bracket that will fit over the existing hole. Any car audio shop should be able to set you up with those. Don't be scared of the wiring. All you have to do is connect small + and - terminals to the end of the wires that you cut and plug them onto the + and - on the speakers. That's the easiest way I can explain it. Super simple bro! Now, let's see. Aftermarket component speaker set with tweets with about 25 - 30w RMS.... HMMM... Here's a few ideas Alpine SPS-600C Type-S 6-3/4" component speaker system — fits in 6-1/2" or 6-3/4" openings at Crutchfield.com Focal Access 165 A1 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com Focal K2 Power 100KRS 4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com All of these have ratings from 2 - 80W RMS I'm sure that they will work. Just a matter of taking a look and seeing what impedence they are (2ohm,4ohm,8ohm etc.)

05-05-2009, 03:47 PM	#7 (permalink)
david712370 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: baltimore Posts: 104 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z PG M6 Rep Power: 16	Hey man... looks like reign took care of ya on this one. I don't really have much to add. I would say look at jeffs thread titled something like his second 370z. He does use the deadening material on this install but you wouldn't have to. I feel ya on not wanting to replace the head unit but i would strongly suggest it so you can put an amp in but completely understandable. I would say component speakers would be your best bet like reign suggested above. In Jeff's thread he uses a pair of hertz two way components. I believe he has said that they are sensitive enough that a stock unit would power them well. They also come with the mounting bracket needed for the 2.5" speakers in the dash. I would say those speakers would be a major upgrade and would be no hassle installing them. As for the 6.5's fitting in the door. You won't have much of a problem here. The way the door panel is there is a bracket that comes out of the door to give you the clearance you need. If you look on the threads some of the guys tell you just how much clearance you have. But in other words you won't need an additional bracket. As for me.... I got a pair of three way components... waiting on the head unit to come in so i can put the amp in. They require 150 watts rms. I could easily play my stock head unit at max volume.... this would actually be a rather comfortable volume for me but probably loud for most. HOwever i don't play that loud for fear of distortion and well damaging the speakers so i play it at about 23 of 31. I can't say how much of a difference the speakers have made. So depending on how loud you like to listen to ur music i would strongly consider upgrades other than just the speakers. Hope this helps

05-05-2009, 04:44 PM	#9 (permalink)
TheWeatherman Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 265 Drives: 2009 370Z 6MTw/Sport Rep Power: 16	Okay, this is what I just bought, and get on Thursday.... Focal Access 165CA1 6.5" Focal Access 165CA1 6-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com Polk db1001 1" tweeter. Polk db1001 1" dome tweeters at Crutchfield.com He recommended this Polk because it's not in your face, but still is nice and clean. He described it as "not making you tired and hurtning your ears." I am really hoping this works. Crutchfield said they didn't have a bracket for 2.5" to 1". He recommened, like you said Rreign, of making my own out of some metal. We'll see. Do these speakers come with some wire to connect to or do I have to go and buy some? Rreign, I'm still totally scared because I have a feeling I'm going to have to go to the hardware store about ten times for this project. Any more tips? Anything I should be picking up before delivery? Oh, I'm sure it's on here, but any tips for taking off the door panels? I saw that I need something that's not harsh for taking off the tweeter covers. I really hope this works. Thanks for all of your help though! Maybe I'll take some pics during the process. Man, I've never done anything like this before. I usually let other people make the mistakes first. Then I move in. Not this time!

05-05-2009, 04:59 PM	#10 (permalink)
rreign A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Age: 40 Posts: 2,341 Drives: 03 Evo 8 Rep Power: 709	Definitely good choices. I completely forgot about Polk. Anyway, here's what I recommend for the install. Go to Walmart (seriously) go to the automotive section with all the electrical stuff. Pick up a kit from there. It's like a 72pc. kit for $14. Comes with everything you are going to need for this install. Wire cutters, connectors, etc. Moving on, yes the speakers and the tweeters are going to come with the extra speaker wire that will be needed. They will probably come with connectors to, but hell I would still buy that kit anyway. If you want, let me know when you are going to do the install. I will come on here and stick around to walk you through any questions, thoughts, ideas or anything else you might need.

05-05-2009, 05:02 PM	#11 (permalink)
rreign A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Age: 40 Posts: 2,341 Drives: 03 Evo 8 Rep Power: 709	Just a quick question, why did you decide to buy them separate? (the speakers and tweeters) I personally don't like to mix and match audio companies but I guess to each his own. Thats why I showed you this....Focal Access 165 A1 6-1/2" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com You actually spent more money than what you needed to. Sorry Check back in my previous posts

05-05-2009, 05:37 PM	#15 (permalink)
rreign A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: South Carolina Age: 40 Posts: 2,341 Drives: 03 Evo 8 Rep Power: 709	Damnit, I completely forgot about the crossovers for those speakers! I was going to get up with Jeff about this thread and then when I got home I freakin forgot that too. No real big deal though. Don't stress out Weatherman! You will probably have to use the mounting brackets for the speakers but again, not a big deal. The tweeters as you know, are not going to just drop in. You'll need brackets for those. Otherwise, I'm sure that Jeff and I can talk you through the install.