Just make sure your output for your pre outs of your tablet are putting out at least 4 volts going to the bose amp otherwise your going to have problems.

BigAudioFanat,

Questions about the Bose without navigation:

I seen a few threads back and forth about a signal processor to go on after an After-market headunit installation. Iam planning on putting a Pioneer 920BT in, I have the bose harness I ordered from crutchfield for the 09' Z and up. My question to you is, will I need a signal processor after the HU, or will it be just fine the way it is?


Also, not really relating to Bose. But what is the path to route my aftermarket back-up camera through the car?

You will be ok without the processor, because the head unit is sending the signal to the stock bose amp to take care of the rest.

Best path is through the center counsel (underneath it of course) than through the trunk under all the foam blocks and to a rubber grommet to the left on the inside of the trunk behind the bumper.

Bigaudio, you sir are an invaluable resource. I WAS happy with my Bose until now...lol.
Here's what I pieced together based on what I've read...and I know you don't like rear speakers in this car but I HAVE to replace them out of some sense of pairity.
Factory head unit. not the best but replacible at a later date.
Helix PP50DSP
Helix PP7E Compact Sub
Polk Audio db6501 (front)
Polk Audio db401 (rear)
I believe the 6501s are listed as shallow mount.
What do you think of these choices AND since this is your area of expertise, would you know of a reputable installer in the Tampa area?
Tks in advance.

No High's
No Low's
Must be Bose

Check out the guys at Soundwaves Inc.....you will not be disappointed

I have to agree the Z's Bose system low and high end seem to begin to roll off at '22-23' on the radio indicator rather than flatten out.

my audio upgrade
 

As with most of you I found the Bose intolerable.
I don't have the time e or desire to do the work. Myself so I went to California Custom Sounds in Dayton, OH. . I left the factory nav and head unit in place. Everything else was stripped out. I wanted my spare tire so we used a Cerwin Vega shallow mount sub, created a fiberglass enclosure and a new rear deck that raises the platform of the trunk by 1.5". That is enough space to allow the sub to be a flush install. Also made enough room to put the main amp, sub amp and eq in the rear deck and completely concealed. Components include
Audio control LC8i
Linear power LP 2250
Blues Audio 6.5
RF punch P300
Cerwin Vega Stealth 12

Everything works as new, no hassles, looks like nothing happened except a discrete sub in the middle of the deck.
I expect I will replace the head unit down the road, but for now I am very pleased.
I will post pics in a bit

Signal Wire Assistance:
 

A few weeks ago I installed a 10" JL sub with Fosgate mono amp and Audiocontrol LC2i LOC and used the Bose amp sub output wires...

Now...I'm installing a set of Polk Audio 6.5 componants and Fosgate 2ch. amp up front. Does anyone know where to tap (which wires) to connect a seperate LOC for front componant speakers since the front outputs from the Bose amp have seperate tweeter outputs??

Can I just connect the door speaker and tweeter outputs from the output of the Bose amp together and connect to LOC or will this cause issues? Or, is there a way to connect to wires before the Bose amp?

I'm sure someone has done this before. Eric at Audiocontrol was thinking I will need a second LOC for the fronts instead of using the one I already have for the sub.

Assistance greatly appreciated :tiphat:
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No that will not work.

You need a LOC with the capability of summing your high and low signal wires into a full low output for your new amp. Audio Control makes a few good ones.
IMO if you grab the low level input to the bose amp and run it to the LOC that will give you the ability to run your sub amp and your new speaker amp.

I didn't feel like reading all the posts, but if I decide to install a new headunit, 2 10 inch subs, and another amp, then what do I need to change? All I need is the Metra dash kit with the adapter? I'm planning on getting a headunit with preouts for the subs/amp ... So should I be good?

Also i have the Bose and no nav.

Thanks. I was kind of thinking that since the input side of the Bose amp has front & rear speaker inputs and the output side has the front & rear speakers plus the tweets and sub. This tells me that crossovers are in the Bose amp. I was hoping I wouldn't have to purchase another LOC so if I connect the front L & R inputs from the Bose amp to the LOC like stated, I should be good. I forgot the LC2i doesn't sum. :tiphat:
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Update to my system:

This weekend I finally added a second amp and front component speakers.

This is what I have for my complete system:

Front Speakers:

Polk Audio DXi6500 6 1/2" Components (crossovers in front kick panels)
Base Speaker Brackets from Nissan Dealer (no need for spacers)
Custom Fabricated Tweeter Mounts (made from corregated material removed from trunk area)
Replaced OEM wires with 12 Gauge wire

Front Speakers Amp:

Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-2 (2ch. amp)
Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge Amp Kit
Rockford Fosgate 1 in/2 out Distribution Block

Rear/Sub:

JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Sub Woofer
Wicked CAS Corner Box
Rockford Fosgate R500-1D (Mono-Amp) with remote Bass-Boast control
Rockford Fosgate 4 Gauge Amp Kit

Line Output Converter:

Audiocontrol LC7i

This LOC worked PERFECT and I highly recommend it. I used the AV section of the FSM to determine the front speaker and tweeter output/signal wires from the Bose amp and cut them and then soldered/heat shrunk the connections. I connected the front speaker signal wires to the L & R main inputs on the LOC and the tweeter signal wires to the 2nd channel L & R input on the LOC. It has a "sum" jumper inside that sums the 2 seperate signals to the main output. The sub signal wires then go to channel 3 input and have a seperate output. It also has a ground isolation inside and I don't have ANY engine noise what so ever. I have yet to find the time to tune the system, but I'm very please with this set-up so far.

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...219-153104.jpg
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So just to confirm, I have the touring package with the bose system WITHOUT nav. Im wanting to just swap in a new double din headunit. In order to that that I would just need this dash kit....
Metra Part # 99-7607B | Nissan 370Z Dash kit | Metra Online
and this adapter?
Receiver Wire Harness For select 2007-up Nissan and Subaru vehicles at Crutchfield.com

You'll also need an antenna adapter. If you want to keep your steering wheel controls you're going to need an adapter for that also.

right on, thanks a lot.

This site is packed with great information and expertise. Thanks to those of you who take time to contribute. I am starting to think about audio before I even go into the dealership. There are some great deals on the base Z model and I am wondering if it might be a good idea to buy the base model, avoid the bose issues, and go straight for a solid aftermarket system with nav and significantly upgraded audio. Is this a smart plan or am I going to have a lot of trouble. I would like to keep my steering wheel controls. Or, since I have no installation experience, would this be a job that a professional could do well. Any suggestions for someone in the dc area?

Also, if I go this route I would start with a base model rather than the touring. Are there any touring features I shouldn't want to live without?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Your welcome for the info. It would be a great idea to just go with the base model and get a good aftermarket system down the road. You might miss out on leather seats but other than that I think your just saving money.

Matt, I don't mean to be an àsshole, but I didn't read the whole thread...

I have Bose, with Nav

If I JUST want to change 4-6 of the speakers (maybe not the tweeters) can I do so? On Crutchfield it shows ONLY one choice for the fronts (and they're $200) and for the rears there are 50 options.

So, the questions are: is there a direct front replacement that will work with the random ohm rating?
AND, more importantly, will new speakers allow my music to be played louder without the Bose limiter? (I assume that it's either the HU/Amp or more likely the speaker that has a resistor/transistor/Some shite I don't know, that prevents the speaker from burning out)

Not really, if you install any new speaker you will want/need to install an external amp and a LOC to A) give you a clean un altered signal. B) Be compatible. There are some installers out there that argue you can, however it will not sound good and give you the volume your after in my experience.

I know this is a terrible answer... But at THIS moment, I'm not too interested in doing a full install, and I'd assume that changing at least the speakers is better than nothing(?)
That being said, I know that all the Bose systems have weird Ohms, but is there a speaker out there that will work without any major modification?

So for just swapping out the factory head unit on my 14' Nismo w/ Bose(non nav) does all of this look right:

antenna adapter: Metra 40-NI12

harness: Metra 70-7553

Steering wheel controls: Axxess ASWC-1

Dash kit: 99-7607B

That looks correct.

thanks for taking a look :tup:

Aftermarket HU + Bose Subwoofer
 

Hi all,
I've done some scouring and have been unable to come up with a thread that addresses my issue.

I just installed a new HU (Parrot Asteroid Smart), got pretty much everything working, except - I noticed the sub isn't doing its thing, and I can't even control it. The PAS has 6 pre-outs, and of course, the RCAs from the metra harness only go to Front L/R and Rear L/R. Has anyone found a work around for this to get it working? I saw some posts on LOCs, but those were for use when keeping the Bose HU.

Please drop some knowledge!

Also, big props to Z34_Nismo for helping out with getting the Unika working! All of you guys are awesome. I love this forum.

So I successfully installed new components in my bose system without needing to buy 3/4 of the stuff mentioned in this thread or run new speaker wire. I want to upgrade my stereo, but can't afford to "do it all at once". So I've done the speakers for now. Next will be a head unit. But over the next few days I'll write up the DIY for upgrading the component speakers in the bose system without having to buy a lot of other stuff or run new speaker wire.

You can run speakers with the bose amp however it is going to cause it to fail overtime as the ohms load is different. It is like saying I ran 4 ohm speakers off a HT receiver that is only made to go to 8 ohms. It will run them but it will not do it efficiently and cause a lot more heat. You should run new speaker wire as well to bypass the factory crossovers. Just a little info :tiphat:

OK,
Bose spkrs are typically very low ohmage to maximize the power from the 12V rail. If you connect higher ohmage speakers then the available voltage is divided across a higher impedance/resistance, causing less power to be available from the amplifier. P = V2/R, so if the voltage stays the same (relatively speaking) then a larger value for R produces a lower power number. All modern car amps have switch mode supplies that take the 12-14V and produce for instance, two rails, say +42 and -42, this allows the amplifier to produce higher power using just 12-14 Volts DC input.
Bose typically doesn't do this, they use say .45 ohm speakers with 12-14V and since P = V2/R then since the Bose amp is swinging between 12-6 and 6 to 0, (center line is ~6V) then you get approx. 6V x 6V / .45 for a theoretical 80 watts, but I'm not sure what the Bose drivers in the car actually measure, BAF I'm sure knows the Bose driver rated impedance...

PS: Without going into crossover design, running any impedance other than what xover is designed for ruins the intended frequency content of the original xover to the new driver, moving it waaaay up or waaaay down, either way sounding bad. ( to some people, not to others, YMMV).

Running higher impedance speakers (bigger R number) only lessens the power output, running speakers with lower rated impedance can cause the R number to get too low and cause the power to exceed the heatsink capability of the amplifier, causing repeated thermal events and eventually damaging the amplifier.

The end goal is to select speakers that match the ideal load for the amplifier, that produce the desired frequency response, and hopefully you've selected speakers with high efficiency, i.e., if you have speakers that are 90 dB efficiency, then if you substitute 93 dB speakers, it's like getting twice the sound pressure level with the same speaker.
Also, if you have one 90 dB efficiency speaker and add another 90 dB speaker, then your SPL level will increase 3 dB.

I know this is like that person who you ask what time it is, and he tells you how a clock works! I just like folks to know how stuff actually works so they can separate fact from fiction.

I get what your sying but not all their speakers are lower ohms I know the standard is 2 ohms for them but I have seen them range from 10-2 and to take the risk of running aftermarket speakers on their amp is not something I would even do for any of my customers and I do not recommend people do it either. Not to mention your not getting anywhere near the quality of sound they are capable of with the bose omitting frequencies

I didn't use the bose amp. And you dont need to "run new wires to avoid the bose crossovers" because the crossovers are built into the bose amp. The bose amp has front and rear left and right input, power ground and remote, and front and rear left and right and tweeter outputs... just clip and snip. Give me a few days to get the diy together.

Was just trying to say, you dont need to buy LOCs and run new wiring just to upgrade the components. I simply found all the oem wiring and utilized it.

Sent from my Samsung Note 10.1 using Tapatalk

Yessir...all 12 hours of it was done at my house. was a great upgrade to the factory system and no need to lose all your steering wheel controls. it is quite impressive :)

Different kind of build in crossover inside the bose amp bud. Read my original post about it.

As I stated earlier you can do it but I highly recommend not to and would not for any of my customers simply because your not getting the best quality out of your new speakers.

You're right, there are other crossovers on the oem wiring somewhere and therefore you have to run all new wires to everything, and purchase LOC's. I'll skip writing up the DIY because you have covered everything there is to know about wires and informed everyone already. Oh, and my new components don't sound amazing either.

Just wanted to share my experience for some DIY'ers out there. I'll stay away from the audio threads for now on, you seem to have it covered.

I sense sarcasm..;)

As do i :rofl2:

Just a few random threads saying the same thing. I guess none of us know what we are talking about.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...rs-on-bose-amp

http://g35driver.com/forums/audio-vi...-speakers.html

BAF....we understand that you have become the "authority" in car audio with in this forum. but with all due respect, in this particular instance, you need to understand that you might be wrong and try to humble yourself and actually read what Dave wrote. he clearly stated that he did not use the amp he snipped each specific wire for each speaker AT the Bose amp. Dave should be commended on the work that he did because he will now save hundreds of people from hours of work and pain of having to go through the firewall to the doors. Dave kudos to you and haters are going to hate.

also fYI any in line crossovers would be at the speaker and not buried somewhere within the wiring. so once the DIY is done those that will be doing this particular job will be confident that they won't have any issues with inline wiring.

Neither of those two threads apply. Did you miss the part where I said I am not using the bose speakers, and I am not using the bose amp?

At the end of the day, this is a car forum not an car audio forum. If anyone wants in depth information about car audio. A place like DIYMA to start is a better source. That said, BAF means well and I credit him that.

Im sorry i have to disagree. this a a forum for the Z Car and all that goes along with it. Referring to a separate forum dedicated to car audio for a specific issue such as the Z Car Bose system is like telling someone to go buy any kind of oil for your engine since all engines use oil...dumb. This forum is all things Zcar and car audio is a big portion of it and your comment takes away credit from BAF and others (myself, Dave etc) that have contributed quite a bit in upgrading their audio systems.

Also im not taking credit from BAF im just stating that he need to read what others are contributing and give credit where its due.