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Can anyone clarify the proper wiring needed on Touring w/navi for a LOC for 5ch amp

To start I've used "search" for hours and I'm more confused then when I started. -Here is what I want to accomplish -Components up front -2 way coax in the

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Old 03-03-2017, 05:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Can anyone clarify the proper wiring needed on Touring w/navi for a LOC for 5ch amp

To start I've used "search" for hours and I'm more confused then when I started.
-Here is what I want to accomplish
-Components up front
-2 way coax in the rear
-1 sub in the back
-5 channel amp
-LOC (LCQ-1)
-new wire to all speakers

I've purchased all the hardware. I could care less about the Bose subs working anymore after I'm finished.

I have a old history of installing but its been a few years. Normally id buy a Metra harness, bypass the factory amp, swap the deck, run new wire (if need be) then play.
Bose seems to have us in a pickle with this set up that failed to meet most audio enthusiast expectations (my opinion)

I do plan on running new wire to all speakers (side note)

I just need the Bose amp to my LOC (LCQ-1) wiring info and color code.
Also is something about the factory system require the Bose amp to remain in loop. (Am I tapping the wires or cutting them) Am I doing this before the Bose amp or on the output side?

I'm very sorry to upset anyone frustrated by me asking this. Again I've searched and searched. I was a member of the RSX forum and members got off on making people feel small for asking questions.

It be very cool to see pics of anyone else's LOC install.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU to anyone that can help the new guy.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Spent a few more hours searching. 09 Touring w/navigation

I believe I've found the proper color code for all the speakers. Aside from the front right door - and left door - both being labeled pin#5 violet (per the pin chart that was posted). I'm cutting the speaker signals input wires (before the Bose amp) and routing them to my LCQ-1. But only tapping the white wire and routing it to my remote in. I'm also leaving the main Bose amp connected and hooked up but removing the Bose sub amp.

PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG!!!

I do have a question. Do I use the front tweeter or door speaker signal wires to my LOC front inputs?
Or do I jump the rear speaker signal wires to both front and rear inputs on my LOC. Thus loosing my fader at the stereo?
I say this because I'm assuming the 370's rear speaker signal wires are full range. Any help?

I'm using a AudioControl LCQ-1 LOC

Not sure if anyone's reading this but thanks to anyone that can help me.
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Old 03-07-2017, 07:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Seriously nobody can help out?
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Old 03-12-2017, 06:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Come on Z people help a guy out. I read maybe 100 threads with people talking what might work but nothing confirming anything other then the sub signals. I read the "what you need to know about Bose" 10 times. Still nothing concrete on what actually works. I've spend endless hours researching. Even the sticky's aren't updated. You have to read 15 pages of comments to find any real working results. Aren't sticky's sopost to be sticky because they are go to accurate answers to common questions.
I have a signal summing LOC but do I need the summing ability if I use the signal input wires PRE Bose amp? Or will I get to much engine noise? I love the 370 but I swear it's put together different from car to car. Even my tail light wiring has different color codes from what's posted on this forum. Same with different suspension bolt sizes then what's posted here.
Isn't their a mod that controls or monitors sticky's?
Or is this a pretty dead forum.
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Old 03-13-2017, 04:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Your rear speakers should be full range, but like you said, you will lose fade control. Not a game changer by any means. Can't you connect the LOC after the bose amp? I don't know about that specific model, but I have installed a few of the Audio control units after bose amp using hi level inputs, and they worked just fine.
some quick googlery confirms that it will accept high level from your bose amp, so why not go front and rear, plus sub in after amps, and take it from there?
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default I'll try that.

Thank you for your reply. I'll give it a shot.
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Old 03-17-2017, 05:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Incase anyone ever needs this information in the future. Audio Control told me to tap the output wires from the Bose amp to my LCQ-1. Including the sub output wires from 1st Bose amp. Use the summing features of the LCQ-1 to get the proper full range signal. But I may lose my fading ability from the head unit.
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Old 03-18-2017, 06:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You will lose fading if you sum the inputs...Them Audio Control guys are smart fellas!
shouldn't be a big deal, though. Ask yourself when was the last time you used your fader control EVER....lol
all that should be handled when initial setup takes place... level outputs on LCQ, gain controls on amp, ect.
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Old 03-22-2017, 06:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RonRizz View Post
You will lose fading if you sum the inputs...Them Audio Control guys are smart fellas!
shouldn't be a big deal, though. Ask yourself when was the last time you used your fader control EVER....lol
all that should be handled when initial setup takes place... level outputs on LCQ, gain controls on amp, ect.

10/4
Audio Control said use audio output from the Bose amp. Yes summing then gain setting.
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Old 03-30-2017, 08:25 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default For the 2009 370Z with Bose and Navigation

Read the notes for the important info. Finally figured out the color codes with this. By the way rear speakers are a very very weak full range. NOT a real full range signal (and yes I ran new speaker wires)
For a full range signal to an amp use the dash tweeter signals and door speaker signals and sum them with a higher end LOC (LCQ-1) then split your rca output to the front and rear rca inputs on your amp. You'll lose your front to rear fade but that's the life the factory Bose amp.
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